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As far as timing, I did some testing on the dyno, and found that the timing effected the power very minimally, so I left it lower. I currently run mine at -4 on pump gas in boost. Anything past -6 and it will start killing power big time. As for the off idle stumble, good luck. It's in the ECU. If you watch your fuel table while running, your throttle position will go to -- instead of 0. The ECU actually shuts off the injectors on decel, then when you open it again, you have to wait for it to transition. The accelerator pump will not fix this, but can improve it, but it is tricky to set it properly, and kinda confusing. As for the autotune. You seem to be disappointed in it, and wanted to make sure you understand that it isn't advertised as an immediate solution. It collects data over time, and slowly makes adjustments. And the more radical your build is, the harder it is for it to do its job. For instance, say you tell it you want 13.0 AFR at this RPM, and the bike runs at 13.4, well the auto tune is programmed to know that for most warriors, x amount of fuel will make that .4 difference. In my bike with big injectors, it will take that same x amount, but instead of dropping it to 13.0, it will go to 12.2, the try to correct it with the same formula, and go 14.4, and it ends up getting confused. So when I set mine up, it's limited to make a 3% change as a max. Now I can view where it thinks I need to add or take away fuel, and make a decision, and the 3% is enough to adjust for atmospheric and elevation conditions. The reason I DO like the auto tune, is because when used with the POD-300, you can watch live data boost and AFR, data log, tune on the fly, and many other feature. The autotune doesn't work as design on our turbo bikes, but if used properly, can still be a valuable product.

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Hi everyone thanks for all information, I enjoyed very much ,I wish to have all the Knowledge you guys have I just install on my bike the fusion, the pod 300 and today I'm waiting for the auto tune I ask my mechanic and he told me that I have to get the dt1 becouse I have to get the readings after the turbo hope he was right. So let me ask when i connect the fusion to my computer do i take the info from the fusion or the pod.

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As far as timing, I did some testing on the dyno, and found that the timing effected the power very minimally, so I left it lower. I currently run mine at -4 on pump gas in boost. Anything past -6 and it will start killing power big time. As for the off idle stumble, good luck. It's in the ECU. If you watch your fuel table while running, your throttle position will go to -- instead of 0. The ECU actually shuts off the injectors on decel, then when you open it again, you have to wait for it to transition. The accelerator pump will not fix this, but can improve it, but it is tricky to set it properly, and kinda confusing. As for the autotune. You seem to be disappointed in it, and wanted to make sure you understand that it isn't advertised as an immediate solution. It collects data over time, and slowly makes adjustments. And the more radical your build is, the harder it is for it to do its job. For instance, say you tell it you want 13.0 AFR at this RPM, and the bike runs at 13.4, well the auto tune is programmed to know that for most warriors, x amount of fuel will make that .4 difference. In my bike with big injectors, it will take that same x amount, but instead of dropping it to 13.0, it will go to 12.2, the try to correct it with the same formula, and go 14.4, and it ends up getting confused. So when I set mine up, it's limited to make a 3% change as a max. Now I can view where it thinks I need to add or take away fuel, and make a decision, and the 3% is enough to adjust for atmospheric and elevation conditions. The reason I DO like the auto tune, is because when used with the POD-300, you can watch live data boost and AFR, data log, tune on the fly, and many other feature. The autotune doesn't work as design on our turbo bikes, but if used properly, can still be a valuable product.

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Thanks Wicked, I appreciate it! I've also come to the conclusion that the stock ECU does not really play that nice with piggybacks, or it's set up fairly poorly from the factory. Even when I was N/A, to get the AFR looking good, the fuel table in the PCV looked much more messy than I am used to seeing. Installing the new Dyna coils and Dynatek helped big time, and getting the AFR real close to optimal at small throttle openings helped a lot as well.

I have watched the Autotune work great at idle, it walks the AFR up or down right to where you set it, but letting it do it's thing while riding with more than 5% correction allowed is a big no-no, it will destroy your map, turbo or N/A. Over the past few days I have been going on rides, datalogging, watching the AFR's on the POD, and using the AT suggestions and some manual tuning to smooth things out. Its running really well now, but it still does and probably always will fall on its face for a split-second if you really whack the throttle. No biggie, I roll-on anyways, but its frustrating. Once it gets warm out I'll play with the timing a bit more. I could probably get away with full timing no problem when its 40-50 degrees out, but I'm not taking any chances in the Summer, its not worth it.

Right now I am chasing down a starting issue. When cranking, especially when cold, it'll turn over and apparently the voltage is dropping enough on compression to turn off the POD and tach display momentarily, and it does not like to start. The decompression solenoid and thermistor are working and the resistance is perfect. Or I should say, they are perfect when I checked them. I took off the solenoid cover so I can visually verify its working when the bike is stone cold, but it was working great this afternoon. The battery tested like a boss, and my terminals and all connectors have been re-seated and checked. Next step is to check the voltage drop of the starter relay and pull apart the starter itself and check the brushes/commutator. If there's enough resistance in the circuit it'll pull the battery voltage down I'm sure, but so far I'm stumped. It used to just crank slowly like all the other Warriors, but the voltage drop is new, I never saw the displays(and hence the Dynatek and ECU) turn off and on before while cranking.
 

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Hi everyone thanks for all information, I enjoyed very much ,I wish to have all the Knowledge you guys have I just install on my bike the fusion, the pod 300 and today I'm waiting for the auto tune I ask my mechanic and he told me that I have to get the dt1 becouse I have to get the readings after the turbo hope he was right. So let me ask when i connect the fusion to my computer do i take the info from the fusion or the pod.

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Plug the computer into the port on the Dynatek to set everything up and access all of the tables and features. The port on the POD-300 is only used to pull any datalogs you may have recorded, and you need a separate set of programs to mess with it(they're on Dynojet's website). I have a USB cable permanently plugged into the Dynatek and run to the outside so I don't have to pull off the seat every time I need to adjust something. I am also running a single O2 sensor after the turbo. I have a full baffled exhaust, but if you have just a short open downpipe pipe it may or may not get good readings all the time.
 

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Plug the computer into the port on the Dynatek to set everything up and access all of the tables and features. The port on the POD-300 is only used to pull any datalogs you may have recorded, and you need a separate set of programs to mess with it(they're on Dynojet's website). I have a USB cable permanently plugged into the Dynatek and run to the outside so I don't have to pull off the seat every time I need to adjust something. I am also running a single O2 sensor after the turbo. I have a full baffled exhaust, but if you have just a short open downpipe pipe it may or may not get good readings all the time.
Yes that's the way I was connecting it, but I don't know way every time I do it I have to try a few times until the computer start getting the information, in the botton of the screen it show the map but it take a few times to see the rpm and the rest of the stuff,right now I'm connecting the temperature cable to finish with the fusion,and by the way I'm on hold waiting for usps customer service they send me a text today that they deliver the autotune but is not here hopefully they left it in the wrong adress and I get it tomorrow, I don't know what will happen if somebody stole it .

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Yes that's the way I was connecting it, but I don't know way every time I do it I have to try a few times until the computer start getting the information, in the botton of the screen it show the map but it take a few times to see the rpm and the rest of the stuff,right now I'm connecting the temperature cable to finish with the fusion,and by the way I'm on hold waiting for usps customer service they send me a text today that they deliver the autotune but is not here hopefully they left it in the wrong adress and I get it tomorrow, I don't know what will happen if somebody stole it .

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I had connection problems, but it was my USB cable. If the Fusion is connected to the bike, it should power on when you plug it into the laptop via the USB. However, the data displays on the right side will not be active until you turn on the bike's ignition. You can set up your tables and do most everything else with the key off, but if you want to see TPS or pressure or any other data, the key has to be on.
 

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Yes I know but some time I start the bike and nothing show. Today finally I recive the auto tune thanks god they took it to another address and a got a new boost gage too so now I'm trying to see how and were to mount it.


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When you plug the Fusion into your laptop, watch the LED's on the Fusion. They'll flash a little and then the green one will stay on I think. When you open the Fusion software, watch the bottom right corner of the screen. It should go through an initialization process and connect you to the Fusion. Once it does, you should be able to click on all of your tables on the left hand side. I have six tables I think. Then when you turn on the key, all of the data on the right side should become active. Check to make sure your Fusion is connecting to the laptop with the key off. Also, make sure your Fusion ground is on top of the negative battery cable where it attaches to the frame with the allen bolt. Dynojet swears that connecting it directly to the battery causes problems.

Edit: Do you have a POD-300 or no? If you do, I would not try to mount a boost gauge or anything else, it's almost impossible to look at safely when you're at full boost. I have a bad habit of looking at my gauges a bit too much while riding or trying to tune, its much easier and safer to datalog.
 

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Ok, so I wanted to share some more unsolicited tips that I wish I had read or seen before going turbo. I know that many people only seem to care that the bike idles and doesn't blow up at full boost, but I can't stand spending time on anything that bucks, backfires, or runs poorly in any way. To avoid most of that and the hassle that goes with chasing problems around, keep reading. Almost all of the issues I fixed were present when the bike was N/A, but it wasn't that big of a deal. Going turbo magnified the issues tenfold, so here's what I would recommend in no particular order. I suggest you do these things during your turbo build, and don't waste time or try to save a few dollars by skimping on any of it.

Buy a Dynatek, even if you already have a PCV, trust me. You can adjust timing, and it flat out works, unlike the two PCV's that I had, both are junk.

Take your bike and spend the money to have it professionally tuned, OR, know that you will spend a LONG time getting the fuel tables tuned with AT or on your own. I'm about 95% of the way there, just touching up little areas now, and it has taken forever.

Replace your coils and wires with the Dyna coils and wires.

If you are going to run more than a very moderate amount of boost, install larger fuel injectors. Your fuel map is going to be custom anyways, and even with 650CC(stock is 307CC I believe) injectors at 11-12 PSI, I'm just over 80% duty cycle at 5,000 RPM. You do not need to worry about fuel pressure if you do this, as you just keep the injector open longer to compensate, and you don't risk burning out your fuel pump or running 80 PSI or any of that foolishness. Remember, your fuel pressure will drop 1 PSI for every 1 PSI of boost, so at maximum boost I go from say 54 to 43 PSI of relative fuel pressure and add about 120% more fuel in the 11 PSI column. It works just fine. Now, if you have a built engine and are running 20+ PSI, then you will probably need to go another route, but for most people this method should work.

Install the S&S drive belt and don't risk tearing up the factory one while you're on the road. The swingarm has to come off to replace it.

Replace your plugs with stock or 1-step colder plugs. I just put in a set of NGK DPR8ES(I think) and it runs great. I gapped them at .035, and the spark does not blow out at 11 or 12 PSI, and it runs much better and is more responsive.

Do the throttle body sync once you get a good stable idle. I used a writeup here with the DIY gauge made of tubing, a yardstick, and oil, and it was super easy. Do the sync at idle. As soon as you crack the throttle blades open, the gauge WILL show and uneven vacuum reading unless you have already adjusted the linkage perfectly, which you're not really supposed to touch. Opening the throttle blades also renders the tiny bit of air the metering screws adjust useless, the idle reading is what matters. On my gauge, there was about a 10" difference in height when I started, and it was perfect when I finished. I did most of the adjustment with the screw on the right side, and a little with the left. Got rid of nearly all of my off-idle hesitation and stumble issues, and cleaned up throttle response. Chopping the throttle open from idle or cruise is still a no-no, but whatever. You can brake-boost the bike just fine if you're going to do some kind of roll-race or whatever, so it's not a big deal.

Get a POD-300 so you can at least datalog, since looking down and reading data is pretty much impossible unless you're just cruising at steady throttle.

Install the Barnett coil conversion, RED springs, and at least take out the 4 black cushions/spacers in the clutch pack. Replace the 3 partial friction plates with full plates if you like. Do not double up the diaphragm washers, your clutch cable will snap and the clutch pull is ridiculous.

I have my full boost AFR set at 11.3 with 3 degrees of timing pulled after 3500 RPM, and it runs great. I took out up to 6 degrees below that for safety, but to each his own. Once it gets warmer out I'll play with it some more.

If you are tuning yourself or using AT, do not think that adding XX amount of fuel in each PSI column all the way down the table is going to be right, it won't be. Also keep an eye out for one cell that looks way different than all the rest in the column if using AT, it is by no means perfect as others have said. I go through my table, smooth things out a little here and there, and ride some more at 3% correction. It will never be absolutely 100% perfect, but it doesn't really have to be. I have found that a TON of extra fuel is needed in the 2250ish to 2500ish RPM pressure cells to get the AFR where it's supposed to be. This is where my turbo is really spooling and building boost if I go WOT in 5th gear from 1,500 RPM. It pulls through it quickly to full boost, but it needs a LOT of fuel. I'll post pictures of my maps or post the map itself once I'm happy with it so you can have some idea of what to expect.

I also set up my pressure table with 2 PSI increments. If you set it up with 1 PSI increments with AT, again, best of luck to you.

Install two check valves per IAP sensor.

If you have a plate from a BAK on top of the TB's like most people do, make sure the bottom of the fuel tank is not touching any part of it or anything mounted to it.

Mount a BOV somewhere and tune it correctly. Watch Youtube videos to see what it is supposed to sound like and how it should operate.

Remove the IAC valve and ditch it. I have to hold the throttle open a bit while starting and for the first 30 seconds or so, but that's fine. I added 7% fuel for 15 seconds in the Dynatek, as the factory ECU does some weird stuff when starting, especially when hot starting(it runs very lean for a short period of time).

With all of the above, the bike has been transformed from something I wanted to set on fire, to a really awesome, smooth-running and responsive machine. See below for my hard-starting diagnosis and fix. Hint - It was advanced timing I put into the Dynatek ignition pressure map.
 

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Fixing Starting/Cranking Issues

I had a nice post almost finished and my computer locked up, but I wanted to share what I found out today. I have been chasing down a cranking/starting issue, where it intermittently turns over hard and occasionally backfires or slows down and my displays and ECU's shut off. I verified the decompression solenoid is working.

My next step was replace the main/starter relay. I installed the $9 one that everyone says not to get, and it welded itself together the first time I tried to start the bike. The engine still cranked over the same way, and after checking that it was shorted and tapping on it, I tossed it in the trash and put the Yamaha relay back in.

Next I hooked up my laptop and watched the cell tracker in my ignition tables. While cranking with the Dynatek, I could see the cell tracker intermittently jumping down the TPS columns, all the way down sometimes. This is just how the Dynatek is, and I knew I couldn't change that. When this happened, it would hit cells with +4 degrees in them. I cleaned up my tables, reduced max advance to 2 degrees, and made sure that those cells could not be hit during cranking. I also took out 5 degrees in the first row from 5% throttle on up. The bike fired right up several times, but it was warm, so I'll verify tonight or tomorrow.

During my ride I found that the bike ran much better at 2 degrees advanced(compared to 4), and I'll probably 0 it out when not in boost and see what it likes. I assume that the Dynatek has a hard time figuring spark during cranking, especially when each cylinder fires and the crank speeds up very quickly on each power stroke. Bottom line is, if you have a Dynatek with cranking issues, look at your ignition tables during cranking and see whats happening. I'll report back and verify that I fixed the issue. If not, I am totally at a loss. I can't remember for sure if I had the issue with the PCV, but I feel like I did not.

Edit: In hindsight, the bike acted like the timing was too advanced at startup and was occasionally trying to drive the pistons back down the bore against the starter. If I still have issues, I'll just take out 5 degrees across the board to verify that it's timing related and go from there, but I think I have it taken care of now. This exercise also showed me the importance of tuning every cell, even the ones you think you'll never hit, because you just might.
 

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Starting Issues Fixed!

Ok, so I found out today that not only does the bike run better or more smoothly without advanced timing, but it starts perfectly too. I confirmed that the Dynatek does bounce down the RPM column while cranking, and even with 2 degrees of timing in some of the off-boost cells, it was still hitting them and kicking back while cranking, even at 2 degrees. I zeroed timing in all of the vacuum cells, and it started up perfectly multiple times in 35 degree temperatures after sitting outside for a few hours. Now I could go in and add timing in some of the TPS/RPM cells and avoid this, but I see no benefit now that I've tried it several ways.

I ride when it's cold out, so if you don't, your bike may start just fine even on +4 degrees on a 70-90 degree day. However, in my opinion, adding timing does nothing for you off-boost. On an N/A bike your mileage may go up a tiny bit and maybe you get some sort of better throttle response, but I now get 50-60 miles on a tank around town having some fun, so mileage doesn't really matter.
 

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Sorry guys, don't check here too often, and missed so much, that I don't even know where to start for replies. If you want some advice quick, find me on Facebook. Peyton Hall is my name. I kind of breezed through the comments, and have a lot I want to reply on, but don't have a ton of time. But if you're watching your tables, and everything is bouncing a lot from cell to cell, I'm going to assume that when you installed the map sensor, you got a 5v source from the TPS, and just hooked the ground wire to a good chassis ground. You need to hook the map sensor ground to the tps ground, or the same shared ground that was used for a 5v source. Trust me. That kicked my @SS for a long time! As far as the temperature impute, I cut my wire and found it to be more consistent. For the bucking when you wack the throttle, if you're running bigger injectors, the stock accelerator pump settings are still there, but spraying much more fuel now due to injector size. I had to go into the dynatek settings and put a negative input for how much fuel to spray on the accelerator pump settings. Another thing that helped, is like what was said about having increments of 2 psi cells. These v-twins also pulse so much that the boost readings bounce around a lot. So if I decide I want to run 8 psi, I will make the 6 psi, and 10 psi cells the same number as 8 psi. That has smoothed things out a lot. You can also build a pressure tank with a vacuum line running to it, and install your map sensor there. That will help with the map sensor reading the pulsing. As far as battery, mine was getting towards the end of its life, but still started fine every time. After installing the fusion, it really hated life. I installed a new lithium ion battery, and all was good. I contacted dynatek tech support before doing so, and they said the ignition control sometimes needs more cranking amps. I don't remember the exact reasoning, but a new battery solved the problem for me. I hope some of this helps.

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That is some great information, thank you! I will move the MAP sensor ground just to do it, and I will program so negative fuel for the accelerator pump. Do you remember the values you used by chance?

Last week I was so sick of the way my pressure fuel table looked that I relocated the MAP input to the pressure nipple on the turbo before the throttle plates. It of course does not read vacuum anymore(I have a full TPS/RPM map I built while N/A on the big injectors, so I don't need to read vacuum). However, the bike is MUCH smoother transitioning into and building boost, and the fuel table is looking much much better after a couple of rides. I will keep riding and logging and Autotuning and see how it ends up, but taking the pressure reading before the throttle plates really does seem to work much better.

I also 99% tracked down my starting issue. I got to the point where I had ruled everything out, even connecting a 2nd battery in parallel. Bike cranks over and kicks back exactly the same with double the CCA. I disconnected the injectors and it turns over like a boss all day. Then I realized that the factory ECU is probably dumping in tons and tons of fuel thinking the IAC valve is still there, and hence, way more air. I have not verified it yet, but I will pull say 10-20% fuel for 5 seconds or so at startup and see if it improves. Either that or I'll just relocate and reinstall the IAC and let it start up the right way. I'll report back with my findings, but this is really the only thing left. I still don't know why the Dynatek cell-tracker jumps all over the 0% column while cranking, but I don't think that's the issue at this point, and I can't do anything about it without another Dynatek.

Lots of trial and error, but I'm learning, and once it's all sorted out I can just ride the thing and not have to dink around with it anymore.
 

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Ok, so the starting issue was indeed the Dynatek jumping cells. With my setup, I simply programmed it to take out -10 fuel for 2 seconds, and I took out 5 degrees of timing in all of the cells in the 0% and 2% columns that will not affect the bike while it is running. If you have this issue and need specific information just let me know.

I also took a closer look at my data logs and noticed some inconsistent boost readings while at WOT. I have say 30 data points in a row at 100% throttle and full boost, and all of them are showing ~11.5 PSI, while 1 or 2 are showing 9.X PSI. Since this is not physically possible, I now understand the importance of that 5V ground for the MAP sensor. I have not yet switched the MAP ground from the chassis to the TPS, but will do so tomorrow and confirm if that fixes the issue. I was getting an occasional misfire while under heavy 5th gear WOT load, and it must be the Dynatek jumping back a couple of cells and going lean when it gets the improper signal from the MAP sensor(so it adds +80 instead of +120 fuel for example). If this is the fix, I can see why it would take forever to chase down, you cant see it happening on the POD-300, it's all just a blur.

I will say that although it seems logically that taking the pressure reading before the throttle blades is wrong, it sure does work a thousand times better. The only downside I have seen is my AFR going from say 13.0 to 13.7 briefly when I roll on the throttle from a steady cruise, but that is still plenty safe(and SMOOTH), and it goes straight to where it needs to go as the throttle is opened more and more. I still can't whack the throttle open, but I don't need to and I no longer care if I can. I now have it setup where Autotune just runs at +/- 10% all the time, and while cruising it will just adjust over a few seconds until I am right at 13.0. I also went back to pulling 5-6 degrees of timing at WOT and felt 0 power difference, so I'll just leave it there for safety and Summer heat.
 

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Hi Guys,
Been Away For a While But Back Again Now. ( I Hibernate In Winter )
I Talked Fred ( Dyno Guru) Into Pump'n In Some More Boost.
Running 12psi Now, Still Pc5 ( No Timing Taken Out Etc ) & Took Her Out For a 8-900 km Shakedown Run a Couple of Weeks Ago With Heff & Hendo, Didn't Miss a Beat.
Looking To Go Down To The Aussie WWW Meet This Month, ( 1500 km ) But a Back Rest Is Mandatory !
I'm Sure My Arms Are Getting Longer.
Feel Free To Give Me Your Thoughts On The New Figures.
Cheers 10FT.:D
He should be pretty versed in tuning a Turbowarrior. He's been playing with mine for years.
In fact...the bloody thing has lived there for the past 3yrs!
Never ends!
 

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Ok, so it's been about a month since my last post, and I have learned a lot. I don't check here too often, but I wanted to leave some final notes for anyone going the DIY route. Again, in no particular order:

My cranking issue was/is due to the way the Dynatek works and/or the injectors. I found that if I take out -25 fuel for 1 second while cranking, it cranks smoothly. I reinstalled the IAC or whatever Yamaha calls it, so I don't have to crack the throttle anymore. On hot starts, I usually have to pump the throttle a couple times while cranking to compensate for the fuel being taken out, but that's fine, better than breaking the starter. Remember, I have 650CC injectors, so who knows what they're doing while cranking, probably dumping fuel all over the place.

I tried every conceivable way to get a steadyish pressure reading after the throttle plates. I ended up running the lines together, with a small restrictor in each, and I STILL was getting a 3-5 PSI swing at WOT, it was ridiculous. The needle on my mechanical gauge was just a blur, looked like 5 PSI. I verified this with datalogging and a mechanical gauge. It played havoc with the fuel table, so here's what I did. I relocated the pressure take-off to the wastegate line, and installed a very small restrictor where the line connects to the turbo outlet. I actually used an inflator barb for a basketball/football with a 1mm opening. My pressure readings are rock-steady now at all throttle positions and AT works like a champ. The wastegate works perfectly, and I have it set 2 turnns tighter, which gives me about 11-11.5 PSI. I know it sounds backwards and wrong taking the pressure reading before the TB's, but it flat-out works. If we had 1 TB with a large plenum after it things might be different, but we don't.

I am adding +10 fuel for 30 revs at 20% throttle in the accelerator pump settings and this works well. I tried every conceivable combination to get rid of the stumble when whacking the throttle and it never got better, but I can roll-on very quickly.

I let the AT run at 15% correction and just leave it, when cruising at any RPM or load it will run the AFR right to where I have it set. Currently I'm at 13:1 cruise and 11.2:1 at WOT with a progressive 4 degrees taken out under 3,500 RPM, and 2 degrees out over 3,500. The bike runs better than ever now, and I'm very happy. I also put in 2 degrees timing out of boost and it seems to like it better than 0, so I left it.

I found that the stock IAT sensor would get heat-soaked badly under the tank and make the bike run lean, especially after sitting hot at the gas station, so I relocated it just in front of the tank on right side where the main wiring harness runs to the headlight.

I had the plugs gapped at .035(1 step colder, DPR8ES I think, maybe 7, can't remember), but was getting occasional misfires at WOT, so I re-gapped to .028 and that fixed 95% of the issue. I may go even tighter next time I have them out.

I relocated the MAP sensor ground to the TPS, but I did not see a difference in readings. I did this while running the input from after the throttle plates. Might as well do it anyways for peace of mind.

I also noticed that the MAP sensor will skew down about .4-.6 PSI from cold start to hot riding, especially during the Summer. This is part of the reason I just let the AT run all the time. Fueling is never perfectly locked in, but it is safe and the bike runs great. I still have the cells set up at 2 PSI each, and I will not change it to 1 PSI, because that's just asking for trouble and unnecessary.

I found that the base map I had made while N/A, with the larger injectors, was not very good once the turbo was installed. To remedy this, I disconnected the wastegate actuator, wired the wastegate fully open, went back to a TPS/RPM map, and did some riding up to 40% throttle to re-tune the cells that really contribute to rideability. This made a huge difference, and allowed the pressure table to populate properly and not go crazy.

I may do some small stuff here or there, but the bike is done as far as I'm concerned. It rides like stock and builds boost very quickly. The throttle transitions are smooth and there are no hiccups other than the very occasional pop just off idle or when whacking the throttle open. What's great is I can go WOT in first gear, no wheelies or drama. It takes load to build boost, and you just can't get enough load or boost in 1st to have to worry about it. I'm also 270 pounds so that probably helps. Once in 2nd gear it pulls just as hard or harder than first gear. I found that the tire spins a little in second if you brake-boost or go WOT at a low RPM, but if the tire is hot enough it will stick. Once in 3rd it just pulls, same with 4th and 5th. Still not as quick as a liter bike by any means, but I'm guessing I'm somewhere in the neighborhood of 150+ WHP and maybe 160-170 ft-lb.

I would of course like more, but I'm not going to risk grenading the engine for another 10-20 HP. Anyone who thinks their N/A Harley or Victory or whatever V-twin is a beast really needs to ride a turbo Warrior, it's on a whole other level(unless we're talking 200 WHP V-Rod). I did find that I really don't see full boost until 2,700 RPM or so, but that's fine, it doesn't need to come in any earlier. It starts building at 1,500 RPM and is very very rideable. If you're on the fence about mods, big bore vs. turbo, just do the turbo. It's cheaper($1,500-$2,000 all-in), the power output is incredible, and you will be laughing inside your helmet every time you go WOT. Hopefully my posts have helped anyone who is doing this, and I welcome any feedback or constructive criticism.
 

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Some Final Updates

So it's been a couple of months, and in that time I have finished the tuning and figured out most of the issues I was dealing with.

I ended up determining that the Dynatek unit itself is faulty, it's trying to light off the spark all over the place while cranking. I sent a log to Dynatek and you could see RPM up to 8,000 on the log during cranking, and like 3X the fuel. Still waiting on a response from them to see if they'll send me a loaner, so here we go again, their customer service seems responsive at first and then just ghosts me, both times now. Swapped in my PCV for now and it starts and runs great.

I ended up using some data logs to find bad spots in my boost map and manually tuning those out. The trick for me was realize that with a simple 2D map like PCV and Dynatek, to get the proper enrichment while going from cruise to WOT(and 0-12 PSI), I would end up running pretty rich at those weird part-throttle and part-boost situations. However, the bike runs awesome, no flat spots anywhere, and gas is cheap. Trying to hit perfect AFR targets everywhere under all throttle conditions is just not possible, for me, with a piggyback. If I could get a very clean boost signal from under the plates it would be easier, but I have done more experimenting and am still confident that taking the boost reading from the WG nipple pre-TB with a 1mm restrictor is the best setup by far. If your turbo is sized correctly and feels lazy, check your AFR during part and full-throttle spool-up. I also configured the accel. pump to give me 5% at 30% throttle for 30-40 revs, it helps spool the turbo and transition to those richer boost cells.

I also found that the stock timing map must be very conservative. I ended up adding 2 degrees of timing up to 60% throttle, and zeroing the rest out, no retard, even at 12 pounds. Performance is increased, turbo spool is quicker, and I don't have a hint of detonation or anything unless it's over 90 degrees outside or I do a long heavy pull in 5th gear.

I had noticed before that my low fuel light would come on randomly, and I had heard that others experienced the same issue. I even ran the thing completely out of gas once and it still only took 3.1 gallons. I have never ever been able to get more than that in an empty tank. To make a long story short, I went on a trip, filled up, the light came on, and 20 miles later the bike was dead. After all kinds of diagnosis, I found that the main dry-lock fitting from the back of the tank was not depressing the small pin to open the connection to the auxiliary tank, and it could not bent. No air out, no fuel in. It would run the aux. tank dry, with a full main tank above it doing nothing. I replaced the plastic fitting, which did seem to have a stiffer spring on the internal ball, but it barely was enough to crack open the lower fitting. I found a small hex-head M4 bolt about 8mm long and placed it upside-down on top of the lower fitting, then connected the two. You can now hear the lower fitting open up as you seat the connection, and the low-fuel light has worked properly for about 1,000 miles. I can also run it down and get 3.6 or so gallons in it, so I now have full capacity and no issues with fuel.

I still have the issue of a bog when whacking the throttle, but that's it, no other problems or drivability issues. I did have to replace my clutch cable again. It straight snapped in half about 3" into the 90 degree metal bend where it comes off the clutch lever. I blamed lack of lubrication(only lubed when I installed it), maybe a defect, and the stiff clutch springs. I replaced it with another identical one, and I lube it every week or so now. I could get the Barnett one, but it's $80 and I don't believe it's going to be any more robust than the one I'm using.

I love the way my bike sounds with the full Dynomax 18" muffler, nice and quiet, but I was thinking about removing the muffler and installing a turn-out or turn-down just to see if I like the sound a bit more. I don't want a loud bike as I find it annoying and it draws the wrong attention sometimes, but I think with the turbo there to muffle things it'll sound pretty good. There's no more power to be made with the 3" sewer pipe that's already on there, but a little more noise wouldn't be bad. The loudest thing on the bike by a mile is the BOV.

I hope these walls of text have been helpful, and if you have any questions please post them up, I'll try to check back semi-regularly.
 

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I cannot see any photos.

I will have to post 6 more times to see photos.
This is the only site that does this.

When I finish my next project I will sell all the photos-not give them away for free.:D
 

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Beware of Dynojet/Dynatek - Poor Customer Service

Hi all, I hate to waste my time doing this, but Dynojet/Dynatek has left me no choice. I have had ongoing issues with both the PCV and Dynatek that I own. After going round and round with DJ, they replaced the PCV, and the new one has the same issue where it randomly starts dumping fuel into one cylinder for 5-30 seconds at a time.

I wanted timing control anyways and was sick of screwing around, so I purchased a Dynatek last Winter, and it had starting problems from the minute I installed it. After chasing DJ around again, I sent it in, it was found to be faulty, and they replaced it. I received the replacement about a month ago, and the exact same problem remains. They asked for pictures of my coil connections, I sent them the same day I believe, sent several follow-up e-mails and a video of the issue, and 0 response, ZERO. I have been e-mailing them repeatedly for a MONTH. I don't know what the deal is over there, but I sent the e-mail below to them on Friday. It is now Tuesday and no response, so unfortunately I have to do what I have to do. Buyer beware.

For Reference:
The bike starts and runs perfectly stock or with my FI2000.
It starts and usually runs perfectly with the PCV.
With the Dynatek fully connected it kicks back, kills my displays, fires spark all over the place, and eventually starts and runs great.
With the Dynatek connected to fuel only(all of the leads to the coils and CPS disconnected), it starts and runs perfect. There is nothing wrong with the bike.

Ticket# 19165

Hello,

After e-mailing you repeatedly for weeks with absolutely no response, I did more digging. I disconnected the CPS and ignition leads from the Dynatek so it could only control fuel. The bike starts and runs perfectly, I hope this information is helpful.

I am extremely frustrated, this is the third time in almost a year that I have sent repeated e-mails and tried to chase down a response from Dynojet/Dynatek, taking weeks each time. This is wholly unacceptable, and I expect at least an acknowledgment that the issue is being looked into.

If I do not receive a response by close of business Monday, October 1st, I will dedicate my free time to posting about my experience on every social media, advertising, and powersports platform I can find, starting with the RSwarrior forum.

I have been extremely gracious and patient up to this point, but that is over. All I want is a product that works as advertised. Please work with me to diagnose the issue and get to the bottom of it. I believe I have proven without a doubt that the issue is in the Dynatek module. Please respond, this will be my last email to you.
 

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I bit the bullet after 15yrs of running a piggyback ECU such as a PCIII and dynatek ignition...and finally rewired it to suit a stand alone ECU by Link. Just in the process of getting it fitted and tuned.
The way my mate works...could be next year before it's firing ...lol
Anyway...good luck!
 
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