RS Warrior Forum banner

341 - 350 of 350 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
34 Posts
I bit the bullet after 15yrs of running a piggyback ECU such as a PCIII and dynatek ignition...and finally rewired it to suit a stand alone ECU by Link. Just in the process of getting it fitted and tuned.
The way my mate works...could be next year before it's firing ...lol
Anyway...good luck!
I hear you on the standalone. I'm fine with the piggyback, if I can get one that simply works. I've had rock-solid PCIII's in the past on my ZX-12R's, but I think DJ either missed something or produced a bad batch of piggybacks for the Warriors. Still haven't heard anything back from them, what a shame. Anyone else experience weird issues with DJ products on these bikes? I read stories all the time about DJ insisting the bike is broken, testing the piggyback and saying it's good, and then a replacement PCV magically fixes the issue.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
52 Posts
My PCIII lasted around 12yrs...no issues. Till just recently...which prompted me to update it all.
I'm looking forward to boost pressure fuelling instead of throttle position fuelling.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
34 Posts
Dynatek is Garbage - Bike Runs Great on E85 - Max Boost?

I have another update for you guys. I have gone round and round with Dynatek, and it is clear they have an extremely serious problem with customer service and engineering. I have a good 50 pages of e-mails I have sent to them, and the issue is still not resolved. What has been made clear, in my mind, it that they took a Fusion, did absolutely no engineering or checking, and simply marketed it for the Warrior. It does control timing, but with the ignition portion connected, the engine kicks back fiercely while cranking. They still don't know how the Warrior determines spark position, or that it has a cam sensor, most ridiculous "engineering" I have personally seen. Their solution to everything is to blame the customer, the bike, the injectors, anything they can come up with, without trying at all to be helpful on their end.

Anyways, because of their failed product and my need for better-than-93 pump gas, I switched over to E85. After a quick skew of the fuel table, it was up and running immediately. Runs better than it did on gas, 0 detonation or issues, and I look forward to actually adding some timing once Dynatek gets their heads out of their asses.

I'm currently running 11.5 PSI, which feels "safe", but honestly I don't know what the engine itself will take. I may have asked this before, but has anyone run 15-20 pounds through a stock engine? I'm only revving it to 5K, but I know at some point, something will break. I thought someone in the past had said 14-15PSI was pretty much the tipping point, but I have also heard of guys running 20+ PSI on unknown setups. With E-85 I have no worries of detonation or preignition or heat or any of that stuff, so with a clean burn, what can these things take, and what is the "weak link" in the engine? I'm sure it's not the crank, and I don't think anybody makes rods. Experts chime in, I'm very curious. I know I could get cams and rev it higher and make more HP, but that puts even more stress on it than just feeding it more air, and the price of these parts makes Mercedes performance parts seem like a bargain.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
52 Posts
When I had stock internals, I didn't push it past 10psi simply cause I like to give it a crack. I'm now punching 17-18psi with no issues after stuffing the internals with some aftermarket goodies. The crank is stock...albeit balanced. The rest is updated with Carrillo Rods and various other goodies.
If you want to know what the Warrior engine is capable of, I'd give Nigel Patrick a call...I've relied on his advice over the last 10yrs and he's always steered me right. He has more experience in N/A rather than boosted Warrior engines, but a more knowledgeable and nicer guy I've not yet met. Apparently he told me that he found the threshold of stock cranks during his racing of Warriors and it'll spin up to 6500 with no issues...after that, closer to 7000 they'll sheer the crank in two. Anyway...that's my 2 cents worth.

If you've gone this far...why don't you just set it up with a stand alone ECU that would eliminate all of the above dramas. Each to their own I suppose. Good luck. Cheers.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
28,419 Posts
Yes Nigel posted probably all of that here years ago his member name is PRWarrior. He does not visit these days, but his several technical posts were incredibly helpful. I c as not help but think he would be mic-drop-happy to know Ivan cracked the Warrior ECU.

When I had stock internals, I didn't push it past 10psi simply cause I like to give it a crack. I'm now punching 17-18psi with no issues after stuffing the internals with some aftermarket goodies. The crank is stock...albeit balanced. The rest is updated with Carrillo Rods and various other goodies.
If you want to know what the Warrior engine is capable of, I'd give Nigel Patrick a call...I've relied on his advice over the last 10yrs and he's always steered me right. He has more experience in N/A rather than boosted Warrior engines, but a more knowledgeable and nicer guy I've not yet met. Apparently he told me that he found the threshold of stock cranks during his racing of Warriors and it'll spin up to 6500 with no issues...after that, closer to 7000 they'll sheer the crank in two. Anyway...that's my 2 cents worth.

If you've gone this far...why don't you just set it up with a stand alone ECU that would eliminate all of the above dramas. Each to their own I suppose. Good luck. Cheers.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
34 Posts
When I had stock internals, I didn't push it past 10psi simply cause I like to give it a crack. I'm now punching 17-18psi with no issues after stuffing the internals with some aftermarket goodies. The crank is stock...albeit balanced. The rest is updated with Carrillo Rods and various other goodies.
If you want to know what the Warrior engine is capable of, I'd give Nigel Patrick a call...I've relied on his advice over the last 10yrs and he's always steered me right. He has more experience in N/A rather than boosted Warrior engines, but a more knowledgeable and nicer guy I've not yet met. Apparently he told me that he found the threshold of stock cranks during his racing of Warriors and it'll spin up to 6500 with no issues...after that, closer to 7000 they'll sheer the crank in two. Anyway...that's my 2 cents worth.

If you've gone this far...why don't you just set it up with a stand alone ECU that would eliminate all of the above dramas. Each to their own I suppose. Good luck. Cheers.
Thank you very much for the information, that's exactly what I was looking for. I think I'm going to leave it alone for now, mainly because I don't feel like tearing into the engine and/or spending many thousands on rods, pistons, cam, springs, head work, machining, and all the stuff that goes with it. In the future, it sure would be awesome to build it and really throw down.

FWIW, I recorded a data log yesterday, and I'm currently sitting at 12.5-13 PSI running about 11.8:1 on the gas scale for E-85. This is the current limit of my setup, the 650CC injectors touch 100%DC at 5,200 RPM, and the engine, fuel pump, all of it is bone stock.

However, I can assure anyone considering the turbo route, that this setup is MORE than enough to make a grown man giggle. I can only imagine what it would be like with a 150 pound rider in place of my fat ass. I can tell you that at cooler temps, traction in 2nd gear is usually not available under boost, 3rd gear is iffy, and it is an absolute blast to ride. Again, it would not stand a chance against any 1000CC+ superbike from the last 15 years, but it is about a million times more fun at "legal" speeds. And, no other V-twin cruiser is going to touch it unless it is also unnaturally aspirated. Even the biggest and baddest S&S whatever in a Harley that I have seen around here is at least 200 pounds heavier and down about 20 HP and quite a bit of torque.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
52 Posts
I beg to differ about the litre bikes comment...lol.
Apart from sheer outright speed...not one litre bike has beat me from light to light. Simply because they can't put their power to the ground as effectively as the Warrior can. Not to mention I have double there torque even though they match me on HP.

Anyway...hope you enjoy it mate!
Warning though...there will come a time when you get "used" to the power and you start searching for more. In the meantime, start saving them pennies...lol. Most of all have fun!
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
336 Posts
I can vouch for the fusion causing some erratic starting issues also. I'm curious to know if adding a small hold-up battery with a charging diode so the fusion and ECU has a consistent power supply while cranking, has anyone measures the amp draw for the ECU and fusion yet?? I can imagine that voltage change is wreaking havoc on the fusion's output. I'm going to give this a try once I get back to the states and see if it makes any difference, unless someone beats me to it by July. If in fact my fusion is cooked due to the massive power drain during starting I wouldn't be surprised.


izzy, and everyone for that matter, thanks for your detailed posts. I'm going to try and make some changes to my timing and fuel tables to see about smooting out the starting process. I never did think to completely remove the IAT sensor, hot starts at the gas station were always a PITA. might even just put a switch on it for that situation.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
34 Posts
I can vouch for the fusion causing some erratic starting issues also. I'm curious to know if adding a small hold-up battery with a charging diode so the fusion and ECU has a consistent power supply while cranking, has anyone measures the amp draw for the ECU and fusion yet?? I can imagine that voltage change is wreaking havoc on the fusion's output. I'm going to give this a try once I get back to the states and see if it makes any difference, unless someone beats me to it by July. If in fact my fusion is cooked due to the massive power drain during starting I wouldn't be surprised.


izzy, and everyone for that matter, thanks for your detailed posts. I'm going to try and make some changes to my timing and fuel tables to see about smooting out the starting process. I never did think to completely remove the IAT sensor, hot starts at the gas station were always a PITA. might even just put a switch on it for that situation.
Of course, I'm always happy to add helpful information. I ended up going round and round with Dynatek some more, probably 100 e-mails in all. They finally sent me another unit(which they did not test beforehand), and same exact thing. I gave up wasting my life with them and just run E-85 with the stock timing curve. If you figure out what needs to be done to make it work, I would love to hear about it. I even connected two batteries in parallel and it did exactly nothing.

As for the liter bikes, they're no joke. Maybe if you're running 18++ PSI(and still I doubt it), but otherwise, no way, unless they can't ride and you cut it off at 100 MPH. I owned 2 ZX-12R's with the usual full exhaust and whatnot, they are in another league, no comparison to a turbo Warrior. I wish it weren't so, but 180+ WHP, 150 pounds less, and aero bodywork make for very quick and fast bikes. Edit: I completely believe that you have never lost a stoplight drag your bike is sick! It is VERY tough to launch a liter bike, especially if it is stock wheelbase and stock gearing. I have never once happened to line up next to ANY bike at a stoplight. I think the last person who tried to "get some" was a guy in a Ford Raptor from about 45 MPH. He hit it, I clicked it down into 2nd, and blew past him as it was banging off the limiter. Hauled on the brakes, he passes me, keeps going, and I just reeled him back in in 3rd gear like it was nothing. I also ran into a Mclaren 650S last year, he pulled me pretty good once we really got going.

With that said.......I will say it again, the Warrior is the most FUN bike I have ever owned, no question. The setup is still stock timing, E-85, and 13 PSI. I called to set up a dyno appointment at the local Harley shop, and was all set until I said the word "Yamaha", they wouldn't touch it with a ten-foot pole, not even for a couple of straight-up power pulls with nothing else.

I checked the logs(and my POD-300) and found that boost builds very quickly to about 10.5-11 PSI, then climbs slowly to 13-13.5 as the revs increase. I wondered why it pulled harder up top, as it should still mirror the stock torque curve fairly closely. I'm still running an internally-wastegated TD-04, so I ordered a ball-style boost-controller to keep all of the pressure off the back of the WG until the controller cracks open at 12.5 PSI or whatever works. This should give me full boost ASAP and make it come in even harder. I'm seeing 10 PSI by 2,800 RPM as it sits, so 13 PSI by 3K or thereabouts will take full advantage of that nice fat torque curve. I will report back when it's installed and hopefully working correctly.

The only issue I have left is very occasional clutch slippage around peak torque of a few hundred RPM. I changed the oil, put Rotella T6 in it, made no difference. Current setup is a Barnett conversion, red 100 pound springs, new steels, and stock friction plates. All the chatter springs are removed, and the two half-frictions have been replaced by full frictions. I have a set of the Kevlar Barnett plates that I took out when I first built the bike. They were very grabby, but honestly did not hold under boost any better than the stock frictions, although they'll probably last a million miles. I might scuff everything up and stick them back in just to see. I also snapped a second clutch cable, so the $80 Barnett is in place and no complaints so far. Anyone have a different setup that just works at decent power levels?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
68 Posts
Did you guys ever solved cranking issue?

Edit.
I fixed it by taking coil wires off. cps wires have to be plugged to fusion. Now it starts every time without popping and works great.
Have to try to ignition wires back someday becouse id like to have that rev-xtend and try if delay relay to headlight do anything. That would save some power for fusion.
Or can it be resistance related? wires are three times longer to coils than normal with fusion plugged.
And what it does if i connect (+) wires only to go through fusion and (-) wires are from warrior to coils.
I really want to solve this :D
 
341 - 350 of 350 Posts
Top