Yes, make sure the plunger adjustment is "CORRECT" the Legends does not come with Instructions on how to install or adjustment.....you want to make sure you have a decent 1/4 pedal freeplay in the brake lever....if the plunger is not properly adjusted it will not allow the brake fluid to return to the master cylinder thus causing the rear brakes to be constantly on, eventually melting the pads to the rotor....I have the Legends and learned the hard way.....the rear brake pads are still on back order....

 

the only problem was getting the rear brakes bled, first off very spongy, kept after it till I got all the air out. Also leaked around the banjo fitting. ended up pulling it out and using teflon tape and reinstalled and no more leaks.

 

Mityvac......no problem with bleeding brakes.....

 

Look out for no more SORE knee's
at least for me, that is

Kyle

 

Also use loc-tite on every bolt with them.Some have had problems with bolts vibrating loose and loosing them.

 

Being extremely bow-legged will make using these controls much easier.

 

quote:Originally posted by islecruiser

Also use loc-tite on every bolt with them.Some have had problems with bolts vibrating loose and loosing them.


I'll back up what Islecruiser says, take all of the bolts out and locktight them back up again, a few of us have lost bolts recently.

I had to get the Extended Shift & Brake Pegs as I found it difficult to reach the shifter pegs (they sit close in to the bike from where my feet are placed). If you're gonna buy them then get them straight from Legends at about $24 each as opposed to $32 each from Phats. They only give about an extra 1/2 inch but it's enough.

You'll also find threads on here about the brake cylinder leaking around the rubber seal, I haven't had this problem but some other guys have. The solution appears to be not to over tighten the filler cap so that the seal is 'squashed' out, just do it up nice and firm.

Enjoy them Gunny, I love mine.

 

Thanks for of your help. It's nice to get help before I screw it up.

 

I gotta agree with islecruiser - within the first 100 miles, I nearly lost my plunger. And thanks for tip about adjustments, Dark Star! I've got legends, too. Haven't noticed the brakes being tight, but at least now I'll pay attention!

 

Instead of buying the 1/2 inch wider shifter peg, I made an aluminum mounting spacer an inch wider. Took the stock one, traced it out on a block of aluminum that was an inch wider than stock, cut it out, shaped it on my bench sander and polished it. No one even notices that one side is wider than the other and now my leg does not have to curl around the left side air scoop. BTW, I only had to do it to the left side since I have removed the aircleaner and installed a BAK.

 

As far as the locktite goes, I've made it part of any assembly that I do on my bike. Does everyone think that the pegs need to be longer? The ones that come with the controls are longer than the Yamaha billet ones (which I will be selling when I get my new ones).

 

quote:Originally posted by gunny

As far as the locktite goes, I've made it part of any assembly that I do on my bike. Does everyone think that the pegs need to be longer? The ones that come with the controls are longer than the Yamaha billet ones (which I will be selling when I get my new ones).


Definately but try them out first as it will depend on your height and whether you still have the stock boxes on both sides. Like VReater I have the VBAK so the right side is fine, I still have the stock box on the left though and find that I have to curl my leg around it to get to the controls as they are further forward and closer in to the bike than stock. Another way around it would be to add additional spacers between the controls and the frame to bring the controls out a bit. You would need longer bolts though.