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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I recently put Mobile 1 20w50 fully synthetic oil into my bike for my trip to Daytona. Now, whenever i cold start it takes me 3 to 4attempts to get the engine to crank. I put the Mobile 1 in at 2098 miles. Was using Yamalube 20w40 prior. I have the Churchkey VBAK, AIS blockoff, and power commander with custom map. Could this start-up issue be caused by the use of the Mobil 1? The startup troubles didn't happen until the morning after i made the 600+ miletrip to Daytona. Maybe something came loose from my VBAK install? I don't have any error codes.


Any ideas?
 

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not sure what your prob is but i dont think its your oil. there are TONS of people that use that oil and have never had a problem
 

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Are you trying to start it in gear with the clutch pulled in? Try kicking it in neutral and starting it. Clutch could be out of adjustment especially after such a long trip and with the temps changing too. Cable stretching and contracting in the different temps.
 

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This is just a coincidence....you have something else going on here.


What happens when you push the start button....nothing? Any noises?


Is your clock resetting?


What other symptoms do you have besides the hard starting?
 

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My bike used to do that...found out the battery was on its last leg. I even keep it on and battery tender. Just didn't have the cold cranking power.


Might get it checked.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I start the bike in neutral so i don't think it's the clutch. But i may have used the wrong terminolgy. The bike cranks, but it only turns over a couple of times before stalling.I didnt consider the battery, but i haven't had any other indications that it may be failing. The starter sounds like it did the first time i started it. Its just that once i release the start button, it won't keep turning. I've also found that once i get it to start, if i give the throttle a quick blip the engine will stall again. I figured that was happening b/c the engine hadn't warmed up yet. Is that normal? I appreciate all the feedback.


ps. i just realized it has been awhile since ive adjusted the idle, maybe it's too low? I'll check that and see how it responds.
 

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The older your battery, the tougher it will be to turn these engines over. Mine also didn't give me any indication it was on its way out other than taking 6-8 cranks to get it going. Switched over to the SVR-14 and fires up the first time. I would check your battery to see how much life is left. Check the idle while you are there but it needs to be warm before adjusting.
 

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Jacob B said:
..... I've also found that once i get it to start, if i give the throttle a quick blip the engine will stall again.


The battery wont cause that.

My advice... Check PCIII map. Be sure the throttle position settings on your PCIII are set properly.

If all this is set properly... it's more than likely a vaccum leak somewhere, so check all your hoses.
 

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The ecu and other electronics require somewhere about 11.5 volts to operate. Some can handle as low as 10.5 volts minimum. If there's not enough battery juice remaining after it starts, it will stall because the ecu doesn't get sensor data and faults to shutdown. Is this your trouble? I don't know.


You said you changed your oil at 2100 miles on your 2007 - then went on the trip. The bike must have performed normally on that trip since you didn't mention otherwise. After your return home, the problem was noticed. The only problem is slow cranking when cold, plus when it does start you can't touch the throttle until it warms up. If you 'blip' the throttle when cold, it stalls. Since you didn't say otherwise I assume once its warm, it starts normally.


Yes its a good idea to check your idle, but check and clean/oil your air filters first, and check/clean/gap all 4 spark plugs first. Then look at your PC3 software (this is easiest with a laptop at the bike) and make sure the parameter "zero% throttle" is actually set to zero%. There's a link in Popular Mods to a training video on the PC website to set this parameter. Only when these things are correct can you adjust the warmidle (if its still necessary) to 850~950rpm. Its a V2, the idle will jump around, just center it best you can in these parameters with occasional readings above 950rpm but none below 850 rpm if you can help it.


From what you have said, this will cure your problem UNLESS the battery is dying, in which case you'll still want all these adjustments/cleanings in-place to help protect the new battery from excess strain and drain.


This part seems well-confirmed but I still have my reservations about it so take it or leave it. Beginning sometime in the 2007 model year, the GS Yuasa oem battery became 210cca (until then it was 135cca). Your bike is a 2007. Other than possibly being a couple pounds heavier, there's noway to tell the difference since these oem batteries are not labeled with their CCA. Since other ~200CCA batteries weigh-in at 15 pounds +/- and the oem battery is/was 10~11 pounds, we looked at that as a possible identifier but can't get confirmation. The bottom line is, even the 2007+ oem batteries could be 135cca.


I mention this because your bike is just 2 years old. You live in a warm climate. The early battery death could be attributed to the heat, or it could be attributed to letting the bike sit for a few days or a week - or longer - sulfating between rides. It doesn't get very cold where you are, too often, so cold starts are still far above freezing, right?


If its your battery, start the new batteryon a charging regimen with a floating-type charger. If it sits more than a week it should be charged/floated until it can be discharged normally thru starting and riding.


Finally, did you check that all recalls are done? I believe maybe the TPS and CPS apply to the 2007 model years? This doesn't sound like it applies, but then you didn't give very much info about how its acting warm while riding (which is why I don't know if vacuum is an issue).


I hope this helps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Arizona Warrior, thanks for all the info. I will be sure to put all the information to use. About the zero throttle, if the folks at my shop didn't set it to zero, then it's probably not correct. I'll plug in tonight and check.


I appreciate everyone's feedback. I'll let ya'll know how if works out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
It turns out it was the idle. I plugged my PCIII in and saw that the warm idle was down to about 750. I bumped it up to 950. Today i tried a cold start and it fired right up. Thanks for the help everyone!!
 
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