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This is probably a dumb question but I am sure I have asked dumber ones so here we go. After reading the great write up by NorCalWarrior on theistallation of the V-Bak I got to thinking (I know there is my problem).Do you have to re-set the computer to adjust for the higher air flow?





Rick
 

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Depends on the exhaust system you have, if you have a PC111 & what map you have loaded in the PC111.


Without a PC111 you can add fuel with the ECU. Here's the how to link:


http://www.rswarrior.com/forums/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=33867


Let me know what exhaust system you are using & I will recommend a ECU fuel setting.
 

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Maybe. Maybe not. Your bike must be stock since you don't have a gallery set up, is that right? If the VBAK is installed and you have the stock exhaust there might be an option. In fact you might still have the option if you also have aftermarket exhaust. I believe you should use a PC3USB however that's just one side. There's more to it and the answer isn't simple. As far as confirmed info from multiple sources, I believe this is where the knolwedge base is (on this topic) today. This is from the "Popular Mods" post:


About ECU Bump: (see links under ECU below)
Because over time we have learned different bikes have had different factory air:fuel settings in
the ECU when new, it seems likely air:fuel is individually adjusted at the factory. Before making
any changes to ECU settings you need to record and save the original factory setting. Further,
over time, be aware that someone before you may have 'bumped' the ECU air:fuel (you should ask).
For this reason a good place to record air:fuel ECU bump factory settings is the Owner's manual.
Its generally accepted that air:fuel ECU bumps must be up-or-down the same 'number' both jugs.
If you bump cylinder1 two points up, you should do the same to cyliner2 to maintain the spread.
Edited 4-1-09 by ArizonaWarrior: There is evidence to suggest the ECU bump affects idle only, but
there is also logical discussion suggesting the ECU bump affects the entire RPM range equally.
In either case, good performance can be achieved with regular spark plug 'readings' until you
feel comfortable the air:fuel is in the zone. See also 'spark plugs' for sample reading charts.
Note: There is still adequate data to suggest a Power Commander may be a better option because it
allows you to program every rpm zone individually, however the PC may over-ridesome ecu functions,
therefore some sensor data that helps the ecu adjust itself on-the-fly may no longer be effective.
The jury is still out on this but many members say the PC is the more 'powerful' option. Read up.
Many ECU topics like this one are evolving every day: http://rswarrior.com/forums/t/122536.aspx
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Outstanding follow-up, thanks. My bike is stock, in fact fewer than 300 miles. I think the Power

Commander idea is the way to go. I have changed a lot on my car and am continually changing the program there.

Thanks again for the replies, good to know what you are getting into before you get too far down the road.



Rick
 
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