Agreed with Mac. Also, some folks such as myself have a problem with the propipe endcap breaking loose from the pipe. Can be a major PITA in my opinion. Myself as well as others fix this by purchasing the hellrisers endcap for HD propipes. Takes a little modification to get it to fit the metric version. I say this to inform you of the setbacks with the propipe. Many RSWarrior vets love it, I wish I had of gone a different route. The yamaha speedstar pipe doesn't have any problems that I'm aware of, and it also will not scrape in hard right turns as the propipe will. Just my 2 cents. Thought you might want to know about propipe since you made the 1/2 a$$ comment.
I'm with Leetp, I have the ProPipe and my end peice let go once to. I fixed the problem with a V&H SS2r. If your curious check out my gallery, I put a small joiner pipe that kicks the muffler up a bit and have had no problems since, and it has alow growl, sounds cool.
Back to your question, BAK, PC111 and pro pipe and you have done HEAPS. Need a map and hang on tight when you twist that grip. It'll take a month of Sundays to get the GRIN off your dial.
Thanks for all the help guys. Have looked at the speed star pipes. Any problem using them with the PCIII? I will change air intake also. A little leary of not using other speed star changes. Don't want to adversly effect the bike.
No problems using speed* with pc111 and no other changes. Also, do a search for "perfect pc111 install" before you install it the way the instructions say. Doesnt take but a few extra minutes and is worth the work. Do the perfect install before you have a custom map made. You will also want to do the AIS block off. This will help with backfiring with any new pipe and allowing for your custom pc111 map. I have these mods done and have about 85hp and 114ft/lb.
Hey Mac, I pretty sure I blew the baffle on my PP this last weekend, it rattles a little at certain rpms. How much welding was needed to replace the baffle, and how responsive was V&H with sending the replacment baffle?
Update on replacing the baffle....
Not neccessary (thank god!!!). I removed the baffle only to find that one of the mounting screws had come out and that caused the rattle I was hearing. While removing the baffle, I insured the fiberglass was in adequate condition and placed the original part back in the propipe. All is well, once again. Total cost of this repair $1.47 [8D]
BTW, I started the bike w/o the baffle and DAYUM that sounded nice.[/emoticons/emotion-2.gif] I was tempted to leave the baffle out, but decided against the idea until I acquire a new map for my PC-III.
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