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About Spark Plugs. About Anti-Seize on Spark Plugs.

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Recommended Spark Plug with Stock Coils:
NGK DPR7EA-9 or Denso X22EPR-U9 or similar. 12mm thread and 18mm hex.
Iridium plugs: NGK DPR7EIX-9 or similar. Also 12mm thread and 18mm hex.

Recommended Spark Plug with Dyna DC2-1 Coils:
NGK DPR7EA-9 or Denso X22EPR-U9 or similar (also buy the terminal nuts). Plugs are 12mm thread and 18mm hex.
Iridium plugs: NGK DPR7EIX-9 or similar (also buy the terminal nuts). Plugs are 12mm thread and 18mm hex.
NOTE: when using spark plugs with terminal nuts the Warrior's spark plug socket in the tool kit may not slip fully
onto the spark plug. I had to carefully increase the diameter of the socket's internal rubber gasket that grabs the
spark plug tip. I used a sharp drill bit a hint larger diameter and used high speed but pushed slowly until the plug fit.
Then I took pains to be sure all debris and any partly-loose rubber shards were out of the socket. When doing a
DC2-1 mod its easier to do this using your new spark plugs as a guide, and before you pull the exisiting plugs.

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Spark Plug Gap with Stock Coils and Stock Plugs:
The servce manual recommends 0.8 ~ 0.9mm gap.

The following gap data is properly stolen from respected posts:

Spark Plug Gap with Dyna DC2-1 Coils and Stock Plugs:
Stock motor w/exhaust and intake mods - .028 gap
HC Pistons w/exhaust and intake mods - .024 gap
108ci 110ci w/exhaust and intake mods - .028 gap
108ci 110ci HC Pistons w/exhaust and intake mods - .024 gap
These gap numbers are reportedly working in the street.

Spark Plug Gap with Dyna DC2-1 Coils and Iridium Plugs:
Some use 0.8 ~ 0.9mm because gap will not widen due to heat.
Some use 0.75 ~ 0.8mm gap successfully.
These plugs are hard to gap, use a tool that does not touch the iridium tip.
These gap numbers are reportedly working in the street.

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Stock Spark Plug Wires exiting the stock coils.
Length from coil body to contact tip inside boot:
(thanks to member Audio77)

Jug 1 RR 27.75-inch
Jug 1 RL 25.25-inch

Jug 2 FL 10.25-inch
Jug 2 FR 08.00-inch

When buying aftermarket spark plug wires for aftermarket coils
remember to adjust length to allow for having a boot at the coil
end and also to allow for the location you want to mount the coils.
When mounting the coils on a relocation plate allow some length to
set the relocation plate aside when servicing the top of the motor.

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Its possible to avoid having the steel spark plug threads doing damage to the aluminum motor threads by using new spark plug crush washers every time you remove the spark plugs. These are 12mm spark plug crush washers, like #P-678 (Spark plug, Spark plug wire, spark plug gap, spark plug cross reference and ignition wires at Sparkplugs.com) Example: Sparkplugs.com - Cross Reference Search Results . These washers are currently 12-cents each at this online seller and they mailed them affordably. I use these routinely. The first time you change crush washers, look closely at the crush washers that came on your spark plugs and orient the new washers the same way (usually with the smaller ID toward the spark plug). Its good to use a 3.5-inch (~90mm) length of 3/8" (9.5mm) fuel hose gently pressed over the spark plug tip as a starter-wrench to avoid stripping the aluminum threads on the motor. This length fits close enough under the frame rails and gives your fingers some grip space.

When using new crush washers the spark plugs can be tightened until the moment the crush washer bottoms-out then stop tightening. This advantage allows the use of a small dab of nickle-type anti-seize on spark plug threads. This can be important because new spark plugs (for example NGK) may have (silver/gold/clear) coated threads and that coating is designed to come loose when the spark plug is removed, avoiding galling damage. Others may have no thread coating even when new. When uncoated or partly-uncoated spark plugs are re-installed this thread protection is often damaged or absent, so galling can be a problem. Nickle-type anti-seize takes higher temperatures and prevents galling. I use a small dab and spread it across the threads with my fingers, a small amount goes a long way. Anti-seize will lubricate the plug as it goes into the hole, helping you to avoid cross-threading. But that same lubrication effect will fool your torque wrench so forget it. Just tighten the spark plug until you feel the crush washer land, then tighten to crush the crush washer and when it hits bottom just stop tightening.

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NOTE: over time newer information may become available. To notify of updates please PM ArizonaWarrior.
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If You Lost Your Only Warrior Ignition Key.

(This info is dated and has not been re-verified, it's being left here because much if it is still helpful)AW 6/2021

Yamaha USA has no access to the factory records for key codes BUT they have contracted with one company as their official USA locksmith. I verified this information and telephone number today. If you cannot locate an automotive blind key cutter locally, then call Lock World in northern California, ask for Sean, telephone 415-386-3900. For those wanting to be sure of the relationship between Yamaha and this particular Lock World (which seems like a common name for a locksmith but dunno) here's the Yamaha dealer sign-in web page for keys (notice the phone number): [old link broken]

If you choose this procedure then you need to remove the ignition keyswitch (requiring drilling-out the security screws which have a break-off head at torque when installed - see the service manual) and mail it to this particular locksmith. Their current price is $55~$65 USD to cut a blind key to your ignition keyswitch using a Yamaha keyblank. As an option you can have your local Yamaha dealer remove it and they probably send it to the same place. Either way you will also need two Yamaha ignition switch security screws: 2002 thru 2009 Warriors use part #90109-08172-00.

For those wanting to hunt and hope for another solution, here's a code sequence list with key info (Warrior is in group 4th from the bottom): [old link broken] (I found that info difficult to make work for those I was trying to help with no keys).

Here's additional information that will be helpful.
  • If you can find a local expert to cut a blind key to match the ignition switch then it won't necessarily need to be removed. The new key's teeth need to be right-on or over a relatively short time it will wear out the ignition switch tumblers and ruin the keyswitch.
  • Because the seat and fuel locks have fewer tumblers than the ignition switch, a blind key cut to them will not turn the ignition switch so cut the blind key to fit the ignition keyswitch.
  • The one person I know who had a blind key cut in his driveway paid the hourly rate for two hours to get a key. It was about $200 USD including a couple spares. I'm sure that locksmith prices vary by region.
Each time this topic comes up its probably a good idea to remind everyone that buying a spare key or two right now while you are thinking about it can be a literal lifesaver when you least expect it.


NOTE: over time newer information may become available. To notify of updates please PM ArizonaWarrior.

Attached PDF: WARRIOR key blank on page 41 is Ilco part number X248 - YM63. Other references are the ATV Warrior 350, so be careful.
 

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