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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
No a happy camper right about now since my Bike was in the Shop for almost 4 months. Anyways, New dilemma. Bike in the recent has been cutting off sporadically. Surging as I accelerate, the bike starts to sputter and hesitate during throttling. Losing HP and finally stalling. Thought it maybe a fuel issue, but now I'm lost. Please assist with any and all recommendations. Thank you.

2006 Warrior

VBAK
Left Side clean up
AIS block off
Power Commander V
Graffeo's Pipes
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
It should have been grounded on the post to the right of center. I assume that's where it got moved to.

Has it been running since you got it out of the shop? Is it possible the Power Commander lost its map?
After I got Graffeos Power House pipes and installed it, it was in the Shop the very next day for a Middle Drive Shaft repair. Never mapped again after the Vance & Hines I had previously. I feel like I just answered the issue. LoL. But let me know.
 

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No a happy camper right about now since my Bike was in the Shop for almost 4 months. Anyways, New dilemma. Bike in the recent has been cutting off sporadically. Surging as I accelerate, the bike starts to sputter and hesitate during throttling. Losing HP and finally stalling. Thought it maybe a fuel issue, but now I'm lost. Please assist with any and all recommendations. Thank you.

2006 Warrior

VBAK
Left Side clean up
AIS block off
Power Commander V
Graffeo's Pipes
Read-up on the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) it's a wiper-type device meaning it works by moving parts. It's not strictly accurate but think like moving your finger across a plate. The plate gets marked over time. At some point it's contact surfaces get rough so the readings to the ECU get funky. It usually happens in just one physical spot first but grows over time. That spot varies depending on riding style and also depending on physical shocks the bike suffers like 90mph potholes lol (just a funny example).

Also check the TPS Electrical values. It's adjusted by loosening it and rotating. Micro movements until meter reads to spec (x). PITA. When the meter values are right, then adjust your Fuel Manager's TPS match. The PC-V manual describes 0% and 100% throttle values. Note that if you have Ivan's then there is a TPS value tweak in place of spec (x). I suspect this only because the bike was in the shop.

Alternatively there is an outside chance the CPS could be the trouble. Its a hall-effect device so no moving parts, and it's stout, but wires known to sometimes get pinched between the cover, plus some shops replace the CPS on-the-cheap by cutting and splicing the harness which introduces signal noise and also creates a maintenance issue at the splice. So check for a splice a few inches outside the cover and be sure the wire harness rubber grommet is visible in the exit notch.

If map values are populated, and TPS and CPS are good, then start looking at (1) the 3 air sensors to be certain each is connected to the correct wire plug AND the two with hoses are connected to the right hoses AND the one ambient has NO HOSE. There's a help file in Documentation forum, it's a common issue when doing a BAK/ VBAK, plus some shops frak-it-up. Also look at (2) the air intake track including throttle body gaskets and vacuum hoses because in combination with other bits it can contribute.

There is a help file in Documentation forum for setting-uo the Warrior for tuning. Use that to pencil-out a work plan. That will lead you down common paths so you come-across issues.

This Beast's motor is Sensor driven. So troubleshooting mandates searching out any codes first. Then checking air, fuel, spark. Then back-tracking recent mods or repairs. Then backtracking prior mods or repairs. If all that is clear, use the help file to set-up baseline for tuning. You'll 99% solve things.

Have fun with it. Once you've done it once it'll make sense and you'll know things about this bike that most folks don't. When stumbles appear you're gonna know where to start looking. What's cool is that you will use what you learned maybe the rest of your life. It's like learning to tension and align a drive belt; there's more to it and you gain that knowledge by doing it correctly one or two times. And yes the first time you probably won't do it right. Get over it. We all walked the same path. Join the club!
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I’m blown away with your knowledge base. And it all makes perfect sense. I’m going to do my homework before I’m amped to take it to another shop. Although I don’t believe it was them who caused this issue, as they only replaced out my middle drive shaft. But who knows. Perhaps the sitting over time for those months, wear and tear or just bad timing. It’ll get figured out again. Thanks a whole lot man. I’ll keep you’ll all posted of the progress
Read-up on the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) it's a wiper-type device meaning it works by moving parts. It's not strictly accurate but think like moving your finger across a plate. The plate gets marked over time. At some point it's contact surfaces get rough so the readings to the ECU get funky. It usually happens in just one physical spot first but grows over time. That spot varies depending on riding style and also depending on physical shocks the bike suffers like 90mph potholes lol (just a funny example).

Also check the TPS Electrical values. It's adjusted by loosening it and rotating. Micro movements until meter reads to spec (x). PITA. When the meter values are right, then adjust your Fuel Manager's TPS match. The PC-V manual describes 0% and 100% throttle values. Note that if you have Ivan's then there is a TPS value tweak in place of spec (x). I suspect this only because the bike was in the shop.

Alternatively there is an outside chance the CPS could be the trouble. Its a hall-effect device so no moving parts, and it's stout, but wires known to sometimes get pinched between the cover, plus some shops replace the CPS on-the-cheap by cutting and splicing the harness which introduces signal noise and also creates a maintenance issue at the splice. So check for a splice a few inches outside the cover and be sure the wire harness rubber grommet is visible in the exit notch.

If map values are populated, and TPS and CPS are good, then start looking at (1) the 3 air sensors to be certain each is connected to the correct wire plug AND the two with hoses are connected to the right hoses AND the one ambient has NO HOSE. There's a help file in Documentation forum, it's a common issue when doing a BAK/ VBAK, plus some shops frak-it-up. Also look at (2) the air intake track including throttle body gaskets and vacuum hoses because in combination with other bits it can contribute.

There is a help file in Documentation forum for setting-uo the Warrior for tuning. Use that to pencil-out a work plan. That will lead you down common paths so you come-across issues.

This Beast's motor is Sensor driven. So troubleshooting mandates searching out any codes first. Then checking air, fuel, spark. Then back-tracking recent mods or repairs. Then backtracking prior mods or repairs. If all that is clear, use the help file to set-up baseline for tuning. You'll 99% solve things.

Have fun with it. Once you've done it once it'll make sense and you'll know things about this bike that most folks don't. When stumbles appear you're gonna know where to start looking. What's cool is that you will use what you learned maybe the rest of your life. It's like learning to tension and align a drive belt; there's more to it and you gain that knowledge by doing it correctly one or two times. And yes the first time you probably won't do it right. Get over it. We all walked the same path. Join the club!
and ultimately it’s completion.
 

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I am 99% sure it is not a map issue.
I would look into the sensors like Arizona said first. Start small and simple like wiring first. Give it a once over and make sure connections and ground/positive cables are all good.
I had a problem like that once that the cable to the battery was just a hair loose but would just turn and cause intermittent issues when giving throttle. Went crazy looking for it till I just started moving each wire one by one to visually check them.
 

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'05 Midnight
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I am 99% sure it is not a map issue.
I would look into the sensors like Arizona said first. Start small and simple like wiring first. Give it a once over and make sure connections and ground/positive cables are all good.
I had a problem like that once that the cable to the battery was just a hair loose but would just turn and cause intermittent issues when giving throttle. Went crazy looking for it till I just started moving each wire one by one to visually check them.
This definitely would align with the ground for the PCV being moved off the battery cable.

I personally doubted the map issue myself, but my reasoning was since the bike wasn't losing power and gages turning off and on, it most likely had to do with something not directly to do with the main power supply (i.e. battery cables). I haven't personally had these kinds of issues but I'm glad these other guys are chiming in with their experiences.
 

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2002 yamaha warrior
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347 Posts
I have bak n mine was stumbling i cleaned the pod filters n it seemed to do the trick maybe a fluke but worth looking at
 
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