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Thanks again alan! They are asking if I want clear coat on the wheel. Its factory finish so i assume yes. The factory rims have clear coat right? Why wouldn't you want clear coat seems like a strange question to me.

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Yes, the OEM wheel is powder clear coat finish.
That's not something that Sandy Kosman offered back in the day. He would machine the weld bead for additional $'s though.
As you can see, in the 1st photo, the clear coat is discolored from the heat during the welding process. The adjacent area to the donor rim does have the clear coat removed so that the weld can be performed without imperfections.
In the 2nd photo it's obvious that there isn't any clear coat on the skirt of the inner cast wheel.
  • I suggest you speak to your chosen vendor regarding the finish.

 

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Some people don’t like clear coat on wheels whether they be bike or car. It’s the same as in the old days the Japanese manufacturers would clear coat the cases on the bikes they made. Clear coat always looks great when it’s all new, but chipping ends up happening just through everyday use. You usually don’t notice it until you see oxidation where the clear coat is missing. After a time you either leave it the way it is or get it blasted off. I’m not telling you to do one thing or another, just giving out some info😎😎🐝
 

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Does the swing arm bolt come out the right or left side? Really dont want to remove my exhaust, foot controls, etc..........


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Depends
On what side is the Swingarm axle nut ?.?


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Crap the nut is on the left side...... I'm afraid to remove this exhaust. It looks like it has never been removed. Hopefully nothing breaks or snaps during the process

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Well spray the bolts with some kind of penetrating spray

And take it slow n ez...

If the bolts start getting hard to come off
Retighten them and than start backing out
Again.



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Does the swing arm bolt come out the right or left side? Really dont want to remove my exhaust, foot controls, etc..........


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The swing arm Pivot Shaft (PS) is visible in your photo and is removed from the Right Hand Side of the bike. The frame is machined with flats that match machined flats on the PS that prevent the shaft from turning while tightening the nut on the Left side.
 

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Well took me an hour but finally pulled my exhaust. The front studs are slightly bent and add to that super bent flanges and it was a huge pain to pull off.......also found a nice little hidden exhaust leak.

Few questions, any idea how to bend these flanges back flat? I can't seem to be able to remove them. Is the exhaust leak easily repaired by a muffler shop? Last question, my exhaust studs are slightly bent. Replace them with something at local store? OEM? Or put bolts in their place?



The damage from the leak

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Oh man that sucks bro.

Maybe Muffler shop can repair it....

Definitely buy new exhaust gaskets



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Oh man that sucks bro.

Maybe Muffler shop can repair it....

Definitely buy new exhaust gaskets



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Yeah not sure what caused the leak unless the chrome cover is poking it somehow. Bought new gaskets on the way. Should I replace the studs? They are just slightly bent nothing crazy

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This weekend... oil and spark plug change, replaced stock tail light and turn signals with integrated unit, replaced clutch and both throttle cables, ordered viking saddle bags, ordered new front tire, ordered new belt, ordered parts for left side clean up, planned out replacing stock link with previously ordered barons lowering link.
 

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What did they day was wrong?

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Hey Chomorro, I had no back brakes and it worked out that the seals had gone in the calliper. So I had it booked in this morning to get them replaced. They showed me the condition of the pads and rotor too. The rotor should be thrown out as it chewed through 2 month old pads. I do luckily have a spare rotor, however the brake pads have had to go on back order. So hopefully in two weeks I will be able to take the rotor in have them install it and put in new pads. I was quoted $200 including pads as it’s a bugger of a job taking off the back wheel. I still have to replace the two front rotors as they are warped. That will be a $600 unless I can get good secondhand that I can use and install myself. All this money sucks when your on a pension. I’m still trying to sort out the registration so I can have the stinger plate, that’s $110 to do that. It’s too bad they frown in bank robbery 😎😎🐝
 

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@Chomorro

 

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Well took me an hour but finally pulled my exhaust. The front studs are slightly bent and add to that super bent flanges and it was a huge pain to pull off.......also found a nice little hidden exhaust leak.

Few questions, any idea how to bend these flanges back flat? I can't seem to be able to remove them. Is the exhaust leak easily repaired by a muffler shop? Last question, my exhaust studs are slightly bent. Replace them with something at local store? OEM? Or put bolts in their place?



The damage from the leak

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Yeah not sure what caused the leak unless the chrome cover is poking it somehow. Bought new gaskets on the way. Should I replace the studs? They are just slightly bent nothing crazy

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Robert's Fix is an excellent solution for the thin Muzzy head pipe flanges if you have a bench vise!
  • I would also suggest you slot the 8mm holes in the flanges for easy ON/OFF in the future.
    • IMHO it's best to use a 1/4" drive to snug/tighten the 2-bolt flanges to prevent deformation and not adhere to the Factory torque spec's. This is also a common problem with the thin V&H 2-bolt flanges.
  • I suspect that the PO or shop that installed the Muzzy pipes possibly/deliberately punched the pipe inward to clear the Yami accessory chrome decomp cover which could be the root cause of the current leak over time???
    • Bottom line, It can be repaired by welding as you know. If you don't have the capability a muffler shop can certainly handle it or others.
    • You'll want to grind the corner of the decomp cover to clear the pipe if in fact it is contacting the exhaust pipe else pickup the OEM decomp cover and grind it to clear the Yami accessory cam cover :)
  • I would not replace the bent studs. The easy fix is to install the M8 flange nut onto the tip of the stud, with full thread engagement, and use a punch and small shop hammer to straighten. easy-peasy
 

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Robert's Fix is an excellent solution for the thin Muzzy head pipe flanges if you have a bench vise!
  • I would also suggest you slot the 8mm holes in the flanges for easy ON/OFF in the future.
    • IMHO it's best to use a 1/4" drive to snug/tighten the 2-bolt flanges to prevent deformation and not adhere to the Factory torque spec's. This is also a common problem with the thin V&H 2-bolt flanges.
  • I suspect that the PO or shop that installed the Muzzy pipes possibly/deliberately punched the pipe inward to clear the Yami accessory chrome decomp cover which could be the root cause of the current leak over time???
    • Bottom line, It can be repaired by welding as you know. If you don't have the capability a muffler shop can certainly handle it or others.
    • You'll want to grind the corner of the decomp cover to clear the pipe if in fact it is contacting the exhaust pipe else pickup the OEM decomp cover and grind it to clear the Yami accessory cam cover :)
  • I would not replace the bent studs. The easy fix is to install the M8 flange nut onto the tip of the stud, with full thread engagement, and use a punch and small shop hammer to straighten. easy-peasy
Excellent stuff Alan! Going to try and bend the flanges back today. Looking at the chrome decompression cover vs the oem I think you are 100% correct. There is much more clearance on the stock one. I'm going to have it repaired and look for a stock cover.

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