My warrior came stock with a chee chee sound.LMAO

 

same here!

 

Dam, I never got one.

 

You need to go back Meatball! It was a no charge annoyance on mine! I figure everyone should have one. LOL

 

I am wondering if your stock bike that came with this sound has to do with it's assembly vs. it's design. The bike never made the sound before, it just started after I put the thing back together again. Something to consider, I guess???

 

Try turning the pads around. I think it is cause by the pads grabbing and letting go so if you swap sides then you might be back to how you were???

 

Are you thinking the rotor is warped from over tighting the nuts?

 

my mom always said to me careful when tightening your nuts.

Hey Meat- maybe you can check out BillH's site for info on the "chee chee" sound Mod.

 

I bought a more precise torque wrench tonight. I'll retorque to see if that improves the situation. I don't think the rotor would be warped. I can't imagine how that would happen since I did not remove the rotor.
Daimon. Not sure what you mean by turning the pads around. Do you mean swapping the pads on the existing caliper? I'll try this if the retorque does not work.
Thanks

 

I always thaught the warrior had antilock brakes until i got on the forum. the vibration on the bars feels like the vibration on the foot pedal of a 1999 ford pkup.

 

Swap sides of the bike then the leading edge that you now have will be in the rear.

I don't think it is torque as the rotor is floating and you are going against a back so I don't see where the warp would come from. But I could be wrong, it would not be the first time /emoticons/emotion-1.gif

 

Are you talking about a vibration a slow speeds? i notice when i am driving in my subdivision that if i go perfectly straight i feel noting weird, but as soon as i lean/turn left or right.... i feel a little vibration, and it ends as soon as the bike starightens up. i can feel it in the pegs and bars, comes from the front, but its very mild. not sure you would notice it if you werent payign attention.

 

Audio that sounds more like tires to me, My front started cupping real bad almost from new.

 

The noise only is evident when applying the front brakes at any speed. Imagine applying the front brakes, pads rub against the rotor, then comes the scraping sound (i have described it as chee, chee). When I installed the wheel, I made sure to install it with the same direction of rotation.
Anyway, I am going to break it all apart and re-torque to see if that addresses the issue.

 

Might the rotors and pads be dirty? Every time I take off a wheel the rotors get dirty just from handling them. Might try some brake parts cleaner if you hav'nt already.

 

not to de-rail this, but isnt cupping a result of a suspension or improper inflation? i just now hove 1,500 miles on my virgin bike.

 

Cupping comes from the tire lifting off the road during breaking. So you get more traction then less and you create flat spots.
1 If you ever locked up the tire and flat spotted it, you will not even notice it, then it could get worse.
2 90% of the timr their is to much rebound in the fork. Which we have so when you hit a bump the tire bounces.
3 I have read but do not agree with the inflation thing. I think people see the low tire and assume that was the problem without having any facts to back it up. No one has yet to show me where the force that causes the cupping is coming from in this case. All others it is pretty evident.

 

Originally posted by Daimon1054

2 90% of the timr their is to much rebound in the fork.

Would heavier fork oil eliminate this?

 

but D- why does the cupping happen on the edges of the tire, not the center? or is my tire just too early in the stages to tell? it doesnt hardly look cupped, but you CAN feel it if you run your fingers across it.

 

If it is cupping on the side then I would think that is where your tire is riding. I would make sure your air PSI is right.


Wolf the biggest problem is the fork is cheap. The spring is too soft so we crank down the preload so that the bike does not nose dive into the corner. This basically compresses the spring and then it over works the valving. The guys who ride longer distances at one time are more likely to have the problem because the oil being forced by the valve gets hot then thins out then starts to foam. All of that makes matters worse.
So IMO if you went to a heavy oil you would only add to the problem because it would still blow by the valve stack but it would get even hotter and foam that much quicker.
The fix is to go to a heavier spring; Works now offers multi rate springs, and have the valve stack reworked to better suit the bike. The fork is not the greatest in the world but it is really not that bad for what it has to do. The internal parts are not up to the task though.
I think springs are 99 bucks and a revalve is $200 look around you might find better.
You want .80 - .90kg/mm spring I would guess, this will depend, then they will beef up the rebound stack to deal with the stiffer spring and open the compression some to soften the hard hit that is dialed in to deal with the soft stock spring. (the reason the fork feels so harsh is because in order to deal with the soft spring thy tighten up the compression so that you don't blow through all the travel) This will get you a plusher ride and it will be more progressive so you soak up the small bumps but you don't nose dive under braking or bottom the shock on a big bump.

 

uuhh..

so does the adjusting the forks stiffer make much of a difference in handling?

and yeah, i'm very guilty of improper tire pressure on a regular basis.

 

Going stiffer will stop the bike from nose diving under braking and you prett much have to do it. But then the front does not want to stick in a bumpy corner because the tirs does not maintain good contact. Just like the rear, when you down shift the rear end skips and jumps. That is in large part to poor rebound control in the rear shock.

A good suspension would change this bike 100 fold.

 

Not to derail the cupping discussion, but I replaced caliper bolts (others were rounded) and torqued to the right specification.
Also torqued fork tube clamps, axle bolt, pinch bolt.
No more brake noise. Don't know if those that have the brake noise have checked the torque on the bolts, might be the cure.
By the way, the lower caliper bolt on the left caliper had actually sheered off. Kind of scary considering the ride taken last Sunday.

 

We were just keeping the post on top /emoticons/emotion-1.gif lol

Good info I think I will check mine out.

 

Hope it solves some of those brake noise problems out there.