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Discussion Starter #1
Can anyone offer me some advice on which wires might be best to tap into for wiring my Electric vest and heated grips? I also plan on adding some driving lights so I can see at night. Is there a "best" way, or does it matter that much. My Kawi ZR-7 had accessory terminals that made this rather easy. Thanks!
 

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I usally run a wire and fuse right off the batt. That way you don't interfere with anything. I did try to run stuff off the headlight circut under the seat and that didn't work well.
 

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Definitely hook directly to the battery leads on your Warrior. Trying to hook into the electrical system along the harness on this particular bike will lead you to a heap of headaches. If you deinitely need to activate your new lights via the Warrior headlight switch use a relay
 

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Locate an unused fuse position (if available) on the Warrior's fuse panel, or buy a fused accessory block and wire it direct to your battery terminals, then wire your heated clothing and grips as a branch off that. DO NOT try to install heated clothing and grips by tapping off an existing circuit, you will very likely blow out the fuse for that circuit. With the fused accessory block you have a convenient way of wiring accessories on the Warrior each with its own fuse. Hardest part will be finding a place for it to call home. You can find these things in marine stores like BoatUS or West Marine.

If you don't go the way of a fused block, wired the heated grips and clothing on its own circuit direct to the battery and make sure you use an in-line fuse of ample capacity.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I'm glad I asked[:I]!!! Thanks for the responses. My connection cable has a built-in fuse.

Stiletto - great idea. I'll try to find a fused accessory block. I'll have a look at the fuse box and then go to the battery.

I like the cigarette-lighter type connection, so I can connect just about anything to it (GPS, radar detector, iPaq, fridgadeezer...). I'd just have to get a new primary connection or splice it into a Cig-lighter type dewhickey.

Thanks!!![/emoticons/emotion-2.gif]
 

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i run my electric vest wires from batt + & a good ground & fused the + side of the wireing. this way you can also run you battery charger without removing the seat
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks for the replies! I ordered this dewhickey here (the universal one).http://www.electricalconnection.com/power%20distribution/pplate.htm
What do you think.

Pigdog, I also want to be able to charge the batt without removing the seat. Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Has anyone used one of the above mentioned power blocks and do you think it's a good idea? Thanks!
 

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quote:Originally posted by Sebulba

Thanks for the replies! I ordered this dewhickey here (the universal one).http://www.electricalconnection.com/power%20distribution/pplate.htm
What do you think.

Pigdog, I also want to be able to charge the batt without removing the seat. Thanks!

I'm thinking about an electric vest myself, but...don't ya have to take it easy on the stock alternator? I know they can handle a couple of electric clothing pieces, but to put a whole extra fuse block on the bike seems like getting ready to go overboard. I'll go with the inline fuse setup off of the batt. , but does anyone know how much the stock alternator can handle?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
True. I just thought this would let me add multiple fused devices (if needed) and it had a remote charger connection that blocks power from your charger if you start your bike (to prevent damage).
 

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I had a very similar device on my CB750K. I have not installed it on my Warrior simply because I don't have the electrical need for it (no electric clothing or accessories, yet).

So yes, you could run individual leads directly to the battery, each individually fused in-line whereever you can locate the fuseholder. Electrically, that works. However, once you run more than about two or three of these on any vehicle, it becomes very messy and difficult to manage the multiple wires on the positive and negative battery terminals (accessories plus main cables), the stacked electrical connections at the terminals tend to become subject to physical breakage and corrosion (especially if you are a "bare wire" kinda guy) and finding secure physical locations for multiple inline fuses can be an issue depending on the vehicle.

The power panel (and devices similar to it) provide you with scalabilty by allowing you to neaten all this up with ONE accessory feed from the battery and ONE location for the accessory fuses, the same concept used with the main fuse panel on the bike. I've installed this type of panel on my boat as well, for my two sonars, electric downrigger, VHF radio, GPS, fishing lights, etc., to avoid having a dozen or more leads at the battery. Sure it costs a few bucks more. But if you are planning to add other (read more than two) accessory circuits in the future, you will appreciate the design forethought.

I never bothered doing any special charging circuits, I usually clip the charging leads direct to the battery, but I can definitely see the convenience advantage. I had a similar setup on my Ranger bass boat.

BTW, the Yamaha Service Manual states the nominal output of the Warrior charging system is 14volts / 31A @ at 5000 rpm. Some good information about the electrical requirements of heated clothing can be found at the www.widder.com website, check outhttp://www.widder.com/html/Electrical/index.htm.

Good luck!!
 

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Discussion Starter #16
WOW! Thanks, Stiletto. I needed that reassurance - I was beginning to worry that I was getting into trouble.
 
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