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Discussion Starter #1
I need the low-beam and the high-beam to be on at the same time. Don't worry, I won't do it with an H4 bulb in the stock bucket ;0)

When I click on the high beam switch, I want the low beam to stay on instead of turning off.

On another thread, yamaweezle mentioned that one could remove the low-beam circuit from the switch (green wire) and splice it into the hi-lo switch feed from the headlamp relay (red and yellow wire).

I would love some pics of said wires' locations (the green and red/yellow wires) -- especially if both are near/inside the headlight bucket.

As always, much thanks! :D
 

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So you want only the low beam to illuminate when the stock handlebar switch is set to low beam. And you want both the high and low beams to illuminated when the stock handlebar switch is set to high beam.

Curious about why, and also about what mods you are doing!

The red/yellow he mentioned is inside the high/low beam switch box on the handlebar. Its before the switch. The green wire is after the switch. Disconnecting the green from after-the-switch and connecting it to the red/yellow before-the-switch jumps the switch. Only the high beam will be switched. The green will always be hot.

Wassup?

I need the low-beam and the high-beam to be on at the same time. Don't worry, I won't do it with an H4 bulb in the stock bucket ;0)

When I click on the high beam switch, I want the low beam to stay on instead of turning off.

On another thread, yamaweezle mentioned that one could remove the low-beam circuit from the switch (green wire) and splice it into the hi-lo switch feed from the headlamp relay (red and yellow wire).

I would love some pics of said wires' locations (the green and red/yellow wires) -- especially if both are near/inside the headlight bucket.

As always, much thanks! :D
 

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Discussion Starter #3
So you want only the low beam to illuminate when the stock handlebar switch is set to low beam. And you want both the high and low beams to illuminated when the stock handlebar switch is set to high beam.

Curious about why, and also about what mods you are doing!

The red/yellow he mentioned is inside the high/low beam switch box on the handlebar. Its before the switch. The green wire is after the switch. Disconnecting the green from after-the-switch and connecting it to the red/yellow before-the-switch jumps the switch. Only the high beam will be switched. The green will always be hot.

Wassup?
That is a fantastic solution and a clear explanation. Thank you very much. :D Just one thing:



According to the service manual diagram, the red/yellow comes from the headlight fuse. After the relay, it's green. So, shouldn't I see a green wire coming in from the headlight relay and green wire going out to the H4 connector when I open up the hi/low beam switch casing?

48 is the headlight relay and 51 is the dimmer switch.
 

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yunebug ... see if this helps:

HeadLight Circuit 101
They are not the same wire.
What follows is a detailed and lengthy explanation of the circuit and some Yamaha methodology based on the hardwire logic available in the Warrior wiring diagram.

This is an interesting circuit with some tricky details and should be beneficial for understanding other areas of the diagram.

For those that are interested i suggest you review this writer's hosted file, page 1, WIRING DIGRAM (WD) and read the last paragraph of Notes & Disclaimer that will elighten you as to understanding the Couplers.

Color coding of the wire is based on the following logic: The 2-short spaced dashes are the minor/secondary color and the longer dash is the major/primary color.
The major or primary color precedes the minor so in this case Red/Yellow for starters.

Included below is a cropped view of the hosted pdf file in jpeg format for discussion.
I have enhanced the OP's broken/burnt wire for clearity here (Red/Yel) that's within the hosted file but not to be found in the Yami factory diagram but can be identified by the pin colors in the connectors if you look carefully. Also a jpeg of the actual switch.



Item 48, Headlight Relay, is a single pole NO (normally open) contact 12vdc device. Positive power is received from a 15amp fuse (Item 66 not shown) through the Red/Yellow wire at the coil & NO contact. The relay is triggered via the Yellow/Black wire (negative polarity) from the ECU, Pin 33 (shown on pg 3 of the WD) after the motor starts.

The other side of the NO contact is a Green/Blue wire that provides the positive power exclusively to the Opaque coupler of the main harness.
It can be identified in the connector shown outside the Dotted Boundary (as described in last paragraph of Notes & Disclaimers) Bottom RH pin of connector.

Note matting device connector within dotted boundary. Bottom LH pin changes color to Red/Yellow.

Switch Box Housings & Rocker Switch Assemblies - ** Caution **
Photo taken from above thread
 

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My .02 follows
The least evasive solution retaining the Headlight Relay, Auto-On circuit, is to branch into the Green/Blue wire of the main harness (gold banded) in the 6-Pin Opaque connector located in the HeadLight Housing and jumper directly to the Green Wire that attaches to the 3-Pin headlight plug with another branch connection.

This way you can just cut the wire and go back to stock. The remaining Green wire in the bars becomes a spare :>)
 

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I installed a Victory headlight on my Warrior and did just what you are explaining. Simple install. I didn't want to run both lights off of one stock circuit at risk of damaging other components when I increased the fuse size to accomodate the extra power draw. So, I ran another power lead (fused of course) from the battery up to the headlight bucket and connected it to a relay. I split off the incoming high beam lead and used that as my "trigger" for the relay. I of course grounded the relay. Lastly, I took the output of the relay and spliced that into my low beam lead. Works like a champ and I don't have to worry about wires getting too warm/hot from carrying excessive amperage draw or otherwise overloading a circuit.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
My .02 follows
The least evasive solution retaining the Headlight Relay, Auto-On circuit, is to branch into the Green/Blue wire of the main harness (gold banded) in the 6-Pin Opaque connector located in the HeadLight Housing and jumper directly to the Green Wire that attaches to the 3-Pin headlight plug with another branch connection.

This way you can just cut the wire and go back to stock. The remaining Green wire in the bars becomes a spare :>)
I'm gonna take the lease-invasive advice here...

Just for verification, Alan - you're simply talking about taking an extra length of wire and connecting the Green/Blue w/ the gold band from the opaque 6-pin connector to the Green going to the H4 plug, right?

The Green at the H4 plug powers the low-beam. What is the Green/Blue w/ gold band come from? Also, won't I need some sort of a diode or anything? Otherwise isn't the Green wire at the H4 plug receiving 12v from two sources when the switch is at low-beam? (I'm circuitry-retarded, sorry in advance :3)
 
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