I haven't found an easy way to do it. I've done two sets, and it takes some time and patience to do it, unless you've got a bike shop, with all the fancy tools.
First of all, wear gloves and long sleeves, and a dust mask. That fiberglass gets itchy as ****, and isn't any good for you.
Second, if you've got two bench clamps, your life will be easier. Take the pipes off the bike, and clamp the header firmly. If you don't have a second bench clamp, support the tail of the pipe with something that won't move around easily.
Start at the tail end of the pipe and start wrapping. Overlap each wrap leaving 1/4" to 3/4" exposed. After a few revolutions you will see where the next wrap should set to make it appear flush. I like a closer wrap myself, so I try to stay in the 1/4" area of overlap. It really depends on how much wrap you have. A 50 ft. roll will cover it, and leave you with plenty of extra. Wrap the first pipe, without cutting the wrap. Keep it in a roll, and let out what you need for revolution or two at a time. This will make it more managable. Pull it nice and tight everytime you go around, and keep tension while you're preparing for your next rotation.
Curves are tough, and you may have to make a wrap around that's bigger than your overlap, to be in position to make your projected overlap. Take your time. I used a quik clamp to hold tension on the wrap when I needed to stop and think.
When you get to the header, give yourself enough to go around twice before you cut it. This will leave you some extra to trim back and figure out how you want to tuck it, to hide the end of the run. Don't pinch the engine mount flange, as you will need it to be lose, to get the pipes back on the bike. You'll have to finish your wrap when they're mounted.
Repeat this for the other pipe with what's left.
Start the bike and let'em smoke! They'll smoke off for a while, and that's OK!!!
Enjoy your new muscle cruiser!