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Discussion Starter #1
So I'm looking for chrome or black levers, mc top housing (want to get rid of the warning nonesense) switch housings for both sides or anything to do with the handlebars. Let me know what you guys got or if you guys know of any places that sell quality aftermarket products. No plastic or garbage like that.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I have some polished housings I would sell you. The MC top is actually a common size, and you can get it on eBay for less than 20 bucks.
I feel like a chrome top to the mc would look silly if the rest isn't chrome.. I asked the guys on facebook and it looks like phats has the right size and quality housing covers, too bad they're Damm near 100 bucks..
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I asked the same question.

http://www.rswarrior.com/forums/13-technical-discussion/187485-chrome-switch-housing-question.html

Based on replies I received I opted to pass on the ebay ones and bought the show chrome P/N 81-110. I finally installed the show chrome ones I bought just the past couple of weeks. They do appear to be really nice quality.
Yeah funny I was actually the first to respond to your post. How was the install ? Did you get the housing from phats?
 

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Yeah funny I was actually the first to respond to your post. How was the install ? Did you get the housing from phats?
Hahaha, Yeah I noticed your post. I actually bought them from powersportsuperstore.com in January 2014. I paid $84.88 back then and $11.99 S&H but I had other stuff shipped with them at the same time.

I had to grind the alignment pins off as my CP1120 Bars did not have holes drilled in them. No big deal, and they seem to hold real tight on the bars even after the grinding. Installation wasn't bad, it was the internal wiring that was a pain.
 

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Couple of pics.


Are you planning on internally wiring? I was able to route my wires from the inside of the housings straight into my bars since the housings sat directly over the holes in my bars. Super clean look. The only thing I'm concerned about is the recessed cutout at the front of the housings that is left wide open since the wiring harness is not ran through there anymore. The only thing I can think of is putting a small amount of silicone in the cutout to help keep water from getting in there.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I have the tall billet risers and flat bar so no internal wiring thankfully.. Wish there was a step by step someone put up here for these covers. How do they come apart? Is this going to take a while for me to take apart and then reinstall? how does it work with the stock internals? Also do you have chrome levers i can see there? I need everything thats aluminum/grey on my bike to go away asap i hate it
 

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I have the tall billet risers and flat bar so no internal wiring thankfully.. Wish there was a step by step someone put up here for these covers. How do they come apart? Is this going to take a while for me to take apart and then reinstall? how does it work with the stock internals? Also do you have chrome levers i can see there? I need everything thats aluminum/grey on my bike to go away asap i hate it
Piece of cake for you then. They are just like the stock ones, only chrome. Couple of tips: Be sure to loosen the lower phillip screw on the housings first. The lower screw acts as the pinch screw to tighten the housings tight onto the bars. If you start loosening the top one first, your screw will start binding up and give you some grief. Also like I mentioned before about the pin on both rocker switches. It is a black plastic pin that you need to make sure is sitting all the way down into the slot. If it breaks, you will have a poor connection at the switch contacts; creating some problems. I just used a small pocket screwdriver and pushed the pin over so it could drop down into place against the housing BEFORE tightening the screw that holds the switch in place. You'll see what I mean when you get in there.

The rest is pretty self explanatory. You will need to undo your throttle cables and probably loosen up the MC to rotate it for access to the switch housing screws. There is some screws on the inside of the housings that secure the switches in place. The whole swap shouldn't take but 30 - 45 minutes tops.

The levers are the wide style levers P/N 7418. If you go that route, be sure to read Alanh's post on the bearing mod and sleeve mod for both brake and clutch levers. Give me a sec and I'll post the link.


http://www.rswarrior.com/forums/14-installed-warrior-modifications-accessories/113837-wide-style-levers-kuryakyn-7418-a.html
 
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