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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hey, has anyone tried to install the Yamaha Billet Drive Pulley Case set on a later model (2006-2009?) Yamaha Road Star Warrior Accessories, Yamaha Road Star Warrior Billet Drive Pulley Case Set





I saw this on the yamaha accessories site, when I entered my 2007 in the search criteria, and didn't notice that it says 2002-2005. Now, I'm sitting here, with the old cover and pulley nut removed, and I notice that the later model bikes have a different diameter nut, so the retaining plate for the spinning pulley cover has a hole that's too big, sloppy, sloppy.

Anyone figured out how to make this work?

Thanks for any suggestions,
Bob
 

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Hey, has anyone tried to install the Yamaha Billet Drive Pulley Case set on a later model (2006-2009?) Yamaha Road Star Warrior Accessories, Yamaha Road Star Warrior Billet Drive Pulley Case Set

I saw this on the yamaha accessories site, when I entered my 2007 in the search criteria, and didn't notice that it says 2002-2005. Now, I'm sitting here, with the old cover and pulley nut removed, and I notice that the later model bikes have a different diameter nut, so the retaining plate for the spinning pulley cover has a hole that's too big, sloppy, sloppy.

Anyone figured out how to make this work?

Thanks for any suggestions,
Bob
The later models '06' & > use a redesigned and improved middle shaft and attachment hardware as shown below.

The pulley adapter plate goes under the Conical Spring Washer (22mm I.D.[0.866"]) Item 80 in the parts fiche.
I suggest you order a NEW NUT, Item 79 and torque according to this thread: '06-09' Middle Shaft & Frt Pulley Nut Torque Update!

On the earlier bikes ('02-05') the adapter plate fits over the protruding middle shaft splines that are 30mm O.D.
  • I suspect that the later middle shaft splines ('06' & >) don't protrude thru the pully splines as the conical spring washer P/N indicates 22mm I.D.
I suggest you take a close look at the connection of the aforementioned parts and also post up the I.D. of the adapter plate for possible solutions after you review the parts.

 

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Discussion Starter #3
Alan, you're exactly correct. The splines do not protrude beyond the hub of the pulley, just the 22mm threaded shaft. The I.D. Of the adapter plate for the billet pulley cover is 30mm. I think I might try to order some shim washers from McMaster Carr that have an O.D. Of 30mm and an I.D. Of 22mm. I need 1.4mm thickness, so will stack a 1.0 and 2 of the 0.2mm thickness shim washers. Tolerance on these parts might be a problem. I was, (and am) curious whether anybody else has tackled this issue, or has any suggestions.

Thanks
Bob
 

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Alan, you're exactly correct. The splines do not protrude beyond the hub of the pulley, just the 22mm threaded shaft. The I.D. Of the adapter plate for the billet pulley cover is 30mm. I think I might try to order some shim washers from McMaster Carr that have an O.D. Of 30mm and an I.D. Of 22mm. I need 1.4mm thickness, so will stack a 1.0 and 2 of the 0.2mm thickness shim washers. Tolerance on these parts might be a problem. I was, (and am) curious whether anybody else has tackled this issue, or has any suggestions.
Thanks
Bob
First-Off i'm not selling anything here and i haven't done this install on a late middle shaft. What follows is based on my professional experience over the years...... Using shims for this connection point is not a good idea IMO.
There is a tremendous intensification at 100 lb~ft that will cause the shims to Extrude and result in a loose pulley over a period of time.

Bruce59 has an excellent solution to the problem that we worked out together on his ride that would work for yours. Send him a PM.

The other simple solution is welding a proper thickness fender washer with 22mm ID to the surface of the adapter plate and paying attention that the existing hole doesn't interfere with the assy

Good luck
 

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Member shivaman's install on his 2007

Alan, you're exactly correct. The splines do not protrude beyond the hub of the pulley, just the 22mm threaded shaft. The I.D. Of the adapter plate for the billet pulley cover is 30mm. I think I might try to order some shim washers from McMaster Carr that have an O.D. Of 30mm and an I.D. Of 22mm. I need 1.4mm thickness, so will stack a 1.0 and 2 of the 0.2mm thickness shim washers. Tolerance on these parts might be a problem. I was, (and am) curious whether anybody else has tackled this issue, or has any suggestions.

Thanks
Bob
Unfortunately there is no mention of the sloppy fit between the adapter & middle shaft as discussed above.

Installing chrome covers (2)

 

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Discussion Starter #7
Perhaps having a bushing that is 22mm id and 30mm od with a thickness of 1.4mm would work well. I imagine that it would have to be fabricated/machined. I wonder how much something like that would cost?

I hoped to "stack up" something like this with the shim washers from McMaster Carr, this would just cost 20 or so (have to buy quantity bags). I have to think a little bit about what Alan said about the material squashing/ extruding over time. I could re torque the nut occasionally, but I can't help but think that the spring steel that these shims are made of would squash and stay that thickness, but I'm certainly no materials engineer.

Actually, The way that the conical washer is designed actually puts more pressure on the outer rim of that washer. This would contact the steel of the adapter plate for the pulley cover before it would compress enough to contact whatever type of bushing/ shim stack I used to center it on the shaft. It seems to me that what I'm trying to construct is something to simply center the too big hole in the center of the adapter plate on the too small shaft Maybe compression of the adapter plate between the pulley and conical washer is a bigger worry for eventual loosening?

I'll make the contact that Alan suggested.

Alan, when you suggested welding a flat washer to the adapter plate, do you mean to cut out a bigger opening in the adapter plate (larger than the O.D. of the conical washer,) then weld a fender washer with an I.D. of 22mm to the center of the adapter plate? Would the fender washer be less susceptible to extrusion?

Thanks again for the help all,
Bob
 

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Hi Bob,

I got your message.
The reason AlanH and I thought up my solution was that to mount that backing plate under the pulley nut really compromised the nut and it's work on the earlier models which already had issues in this area.

I first cut the center (ID) opening larger and set it behind the pulley with the nuts facing out through the holes in the pulley. This way the allen bolts sandwiched the plate into the back of the pulley.

Problem was , I did a burnout one day and snapped all six nuts off the backing plate. The sportbikers with me were impressed by the torque !

So , with AlanH's help we designed a thicker backing plate .. with extra holes to lighten it and a machinist contact welded the old nuts back on ( certain nuts for that application ..Alan can tell you). "weld nuts"

So again, the plate you see pictured below ( I'll try to find more pics) will sit behind the pulley with the nuts facing back towards the engine cases away from the holes in the pulley. ( I think I used a little silicone to hold it in place until allens were threaded). I then twisted the plate so the allen bolts were against the back edge of those holes in pulley so that under torque , they were already touching and not allowing an impact.

It works perfectly ( no issues in about 30,000 miles) and no longer compromises the pulley nut. I think it should work for you too.



In assembling, the allen screws will be coming into the other side of the plate , the nut side.Correction: the allen screws will come through in the direction shown... I had forgotten that we went this route for better integrity.
 

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Here's the drawing /plan AlanH did for me when we were brainstorming how to rectify that problem. Some aftermarket parts are just thrown together. For the price they charge , you'd think they could R&D this.
 

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Here's a couple pics of the old plate after a burnout in which the torque of the motor transmitted through the pulley knocking all six nuts off the plate:



 

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Here are a few more pics of the new , improved plate. Correction: The plate will mount behind the pulley with the nuts facing in towards the transfer case. Your allen bolts will come through the chrome cover and when threaded into the nuts will clamp the chrome cover on front of pulley and the new plate on back. Bolts will be coming from same direction as pictured.

I may have used a new length of allen bolts . If necessary , let me know and I will pull one to measure.

My photo dates tell me I did this in May of 2009 . So basically have run it without issues for 2 full riding seasons.






 

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Discussion Starter #15
Hi,
Thanks, this looks good. Do you remember what material was used for the plate itself? I'm curious about the sheared bolts on your original piece. I wonder whether the hole adapter/ cover assembly "slipped" a little in the rotational direction when you went "gas on", and the spokes of the pulley sliced the bolts?

Anyway, I have temporarily used the shims to center the adapter and tightened the pulley bolt to 100 ft lbs and installed the whole works until I can find someone to fab this.

You didn't by chance have an extra one fabbed that you'd be willing to sell??? (I know, slim chance, but I thought I'd ask :)

thanks to Bruce and Alan!!!
Bob
 

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Hi,
Thanks, this looks good. Do you remember what material was used for the plate itself? I'm curious about the sheared bolts on your original piece. I wonder whether the hole adapter/ cover assembly "slipped" a little in the rotational direction when you went "gas on", and the spokes of the pulley sliced the bolts?

Anyway, I have temporarily used the shims to center the adapter and tightened the pulley bolt to 100 ft lbs and installed the whole works until I can find someone to fab this.

You didn't by chance have an extra one fabbed that you'd be willing to sell??? (I know, slim chance, but I thought I'd ask :)

thanks to Bruce and Alan!!!
Bob
Alan might be able to tell you what steel we used .. at his suggestion. On the original it didn't shear the bolts . It knocked the weld nuts off the plate ; the bolts were still threaded into the nuts. The outer chrome case kept the pulley cover ( with nuts and bolts still attached) from escaping from the bike. The backing plate was then floating loosely behind the pulley.

And yes the whole plate was slipping as it was poorly mounted behind the pulley nut ( simultaneously compromising the effectiveness of the pulley nut !!). And yes that movement helped facilitate the the spokes of the pulley slicing those nuts off (that sounds really awful !).

I will check to see if my contact at the shop at the naval ship yards can or will make another but just the shipping from here might justify the cost of having the work done near home . ( Maybe have a few done and defray the costs by selling a couple!?)
 

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Hi,
Thanks, this looks good. Do you remember what material was used for the plate itself? I'm curious about the sheared bolts on your original piece. I wonder whether the hole adapter/ cover assembly "slipped" a little in the rotational direction when you went "gas on", and the spokes of the pulley sliced the bolts?

Anyway, I have temporarily used the shims to center the adapter and tightened the pulley bolt to 100 ft lbs and installed the whole works until I can find someone to fab this.

You didn't by chance have an extra one fabbed that you'd be willing to sell??? (I know, slim chance, but I thought I'd ask :)

thanks to Bruce and Alan!!!
Bob
Bob ... what's the O.D. of the conical spring washer and also does the middle shaft splines flush off to to the pulley hub surface or is it indented?

Also, can you tell if the conical washer goes flush to the new adapter plate or does it dig into it at its edges?
If the shims are floating then they won't extrude!
_______________________________________

NOTE:
Mat'l for Bruce's plate would have been either HRS or CRS (hot rolled steel or cold rolled steel) The dwg lacks the bolt circle which was duped from the old part.

My on site resident ME, PE in Nova Scotia had difficulty communicating in 32ths of an inch to this writer :D
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Bob ... what's the O.D. of the conical spring washer and also does the middle shaft splines flush off to to the pulley hub surface or is it indented?

Also, can you tell if the conical washer goes flush to the new adapter plate or does it dig into it at its edges?
If the shims are floating then they won't extrude!
_______________________________________

NOTE:
Mat'l for Bruce's plate would have been either HRS or CRS (hot rolled steel or cold rolled steel) The dwg lacks the bolt circle which was duped from the old part.

My on site resident ME, PE in Nova Scotia had difficulty communicating in 32ths of an inch to this writer :D
I have already installed the cover, but I would fairly closely estimate that the O.D. of the conical washer was 36 to 38mm. I couldn't tell whether it flattened flush to the surface of the adapter. Maybe if I pulled it back off, I can tell if there is a circular indent that would indicate whether the edge of the conical washer dug in, or flattened out. The splines of the shaft are not flush to the hub of the pulley, nor do they extend beyond the hub of the pulley. Rather, they are still recessed somewhat. So...I would say that if the conical washer did completely flatten, then there should be pressure to the adapter plate and the shims against the hub of the pulley. If, however, it is still somewhat convex, then yes, the shims would be floating a little, and simply serving to center the adapter for my installation purposes.

I intend to get another nut after I have rode it a little, and diassemble to see if any of the tightening torque of the nut is being lost, then I'll check to see whether there is an indent in the plate.

Guys, in reviewing the design of your adapter plate, and the disaster that fell upon the original adapter plate, I can't help but wonder, if I simply cut a bigger hole in the original plate and put it behind the pulley creating a sandwich, but orienting it with the nuts toward the transfer case, might it work okay? It seems the problem with your first attempt was failure of the welds on the nuts, when the plate was installed in a "nuts out" direction, which would not be a problem if the thing was reversed and installed in the fashion that you did with the custom plate. What do you think?

Alan, if I do have this fab'd locally, do I need to obtain a certain material for the nuts?

Bob
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Alan might be able to tell you what steel we used .. at his suggestion. On the original it didn't shear the bolts . It knocked the weld nuts off the plate ; the bolts were still threaded into the nuts. The outer chrome case kept the pulley cover ( with nuts and bolts still attached) from escaping from the bike. The backing plate was then floating loosely behind the pulley.

And yes the whole plate was slipping as it was poorly mounted behind the pulley nut ( simultaneously compromising the effectiveness of the pulley nut !!). And yes that movement helped facilitate the the spokes of the pulley slicing those nuts off (that sounds really awful !).

I will check to see if my contact at the shop at the naval ship yards can or will make another but just the shipping from here might justify the cost of having the work done near home . ( Maybe have a few done and defray the costs by selling a couple!?)
Bruce, I just realized where you're located!!! Okay, I'll see if I can find someone to fab it here. I live in the Indianapolis, Indiana area, so we have a few businesses locally involved in the race car industry ;-) Shouldn't be too hard.
bob
 
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