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Discussion Starter #1
Anyone know how much pullback the Yammy Double T's have?? How hard are new bars to install if I don't do anything funny with the wiring?

Ride like it's rented,
rich
 

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I've got the double T's on mine and I notice a sizeable difference in comfort and position. They still aren't quite as ergonomic as the stock buckhorns on a Virago, but my back doesn't hurt anymore. As far as installation, it wasn't too bad. The biggest thing is removing the headlight assembly so you can get better access to the two nuts holding the risers in. The double T bars have sleeve inserts to make up for the difference in bolt diameter, but once you get them lined up and started in the hole, they slide right in. I think it took me about two hours including the mirrors and controls. The wires won't follow the shape of the bars. There isn't really enough excess of cable so I just tucked a little bit of the cable behind the corners of my speedo. I just made sure that when the bars are turned stop to stop that the wires don't rub on my tank. I like them, but everyone is different. Sorry for the lengthy post. Hope it goes smooth for you and they work out!!

Johnny
 

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I agree with rippen, 2 hours. There are washers/spacers that come with the kit that I believe caused a small vibration/noise after installation. After a few discussuions I think that the washers may be loose. If I were you I would use RTV silicone so they do not bounce around. I have not removed mine yet (too cold here) but I will in the spring.
Ps I have two chrome wire clamps from Drag Specilities that hold the wireing up a little nicer that ties. They clamp flush around the fatty bars and are the same as Yamaha's(except Yamaha charges $65 and I paid $12.95). I bought 4 but only needed 2. If anyone is interested let me know and I will send them.
 

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I found it much easier to remove the tac cover along with the head light assembly. And when you have both apart it is a good time to re-route the electrical wires to follow the clutch and throttle / brake lines. There is qick disconnects in the head light, only takes a couple of extra minutes and makes the install look ten times better. I have not had a chance to ride it since the install, it has been too friggin' cold. so I'm not sure about the comfort, seems like it may take a ride to get used to it. But they sure do look nice.
 

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I forgot about removing the tach cover, sick1. I did that and it did make things a bit easier. I've slept since then....LOL

Johnny
 

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If you're not going internal Sick1s advice is good to follow. I like my Yamaha TT bars. I even cut off excess bar to bring the grips closer to the center of the bar to make it more comfortable for me. I didn't like my arms so far apart.
 

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quote:Originally posted by JPWARRIOR

If you're not going internal Sick1s advice is good to follow. I like my Yamaha TT bars. I even cut off excess bar to bring the grips closer to the center of the bar to make it more comfortable for me. I didn't like my arms so far apart.
Does everything still clear the tank?
 

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Sick1 how do you do that quote thing? Yes, on my bike everything clears the tank, but I'm not using the Yamaha hand controls. I rotated my throttle housing foward so the cable noodle won't hit the tank at full lock with me pushing down on the bar. I'm not sure if this would work with the stock switch housings.
 

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quote:Originally posted by JPWARRIOR

Sick1 how do you do that quote thing? Yes, on my bike everything clears the tank, but I'm not using the Yamaha hand controls. I rotated my throttle housing foward so the cable noodle won't hit the tank at full lock with me pushing down on the bar. I'm not sure if this would work with the stock switch housings.

Click on the paper with the curved arrow icon to do the "quote thing". I thought the stock controlls were real close to the tank. I was going to trim it, but want to get a chance to ride her first to see how she feels at length. I wanted to do something to fill in the gap between the controls and the "pinch" spot.
 
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