I would say: Well, let me know when you find out what you did to change things from when I dropped it off. When you drop off any vehicle and it is in a condition worse than you dropped it off, it is their problem unless they find a reason why it just decided to stop working properly since they started working on it. Just my $.02 worth.

 

They bent the rear brake light relay switch under the rubber cap next to the rear brake pedal. If you remove the rubber cap you will find 2 vertical posts for that relay. They bent them so that they are touching. Straighten them out and replace the fuse. It is worth checking IHMO

 

Don't you just LOVE IT?!?

I've had a similar issue in the past couple weeks. Took my Warrior in for its first custom map since I've owned it. Been riding on the previous owner's map for the past 3 years, but recently installed a VBAK, so want a new map.

I took it to a shop on Dynotech's approved list of tuning centers. The tech was not able to create a custom map for me. Not a problem -- my issue since my PC3 did not have the 'perfect install', which I didn't realize at the time.

But... they gave my bike back to me with the PC3 not functioning at all! It's dead! Now I have to send it back to Dynotech to have it 're-programmed' in hopes of bringing it back to life. And, in his attempts to figure it all out, the tech RIPPED my TPS wire splice off, leaving me with a damaged wire that I have to now fix. AND there is a scratch in my shiny chrome exhaust. Not to mention that my bike was COVERED in greasy finger prints, from front fender to rear fender (why are they even touching the fenders, right???).

Very frustrating. It's like my worst nightmare -- letting someone else work on my bike and getting it back in worse condition than when I gave it to them. They hooked up the stock ECU just so that I could get home.

Anyway, sorry for your similar troubles. And sorry I don't have ideas on what you should check with your own electrical issues.

Personally, I just wanted to get my bike home and take care of it myself. Really makes me want to never let anyone touch it again. I wish the new PC5 (with auto-tune module) and/or Cobra PowerPro didn't cost $600. I'd love to have that auto-tune feature.

Good luck with your diagnosis, and dealing with the shop.

 

Thanks newwarorder I looked and it was good but I noticed my connecters for the horn were off(my bad) so I plugged them in. They didn't have any more fuses but they did have a tool that test amp draw so we plugged that in and it showed it was only drawing only .7 amps. I ran to the auto store got some new fuses and all is good, I rode it the 40 miles home and still good. Could it have had anything to do with the horn connecters disconnected?

 

Mr Blove

Somebody just posted something about the horns not being plugged in the bike wouln't work. I think it was Terry K and the front horn,

g

 

My horns were removed about 9 years ago. Cut the connectors off the wires & taped them.

No issues.

 

All well,, I think, I thought, I saw it somewhere. Opps,, Sorry bout that.

G

 

You were right G, your memory isn't toooooo bad

The V&H FuelPak uses the live from the front horn for power. like AH said, it's live when the ignition is on.

http://www.rswarrior.com/forums/13-...forums/13-technical-discussion/172951-horn-wires-can-keep-warrior-starting.html

Gav.

 

I was more grasping at straws here, something along the lines as maybe the free floating connecters made that one in a million connection shorting out some circuit causing this problem. I didn't think that could be the case seeming as the horn is a simple circuit 2 wires, a switch, power source, and horn but I don't know.

 

I was more grasping at straws here, something along the lines as maybe the free floating connecters made that one in a million connection shorting out some circuit causing this problem. I didn't think that could be the case seeming as the horn is a simple circuit 2 wires, a switch, power source, and horn but I don't know.

The RH frt horn has 2-insulated flag terminal wire connectors.
Black/White (B/W) wire is Positive and branches to the 10A signal circuit LIVE when ever the ignition key is turned on.

If this wire is touching any metal pc that is part of the chassis ground there is a direct short and the fuse will open protecting the wire which is the case here so you solved the problem!

FWIIW .... the horn PB switches the ground wire only.