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Aligning the rear wheel and belt

2.7K views 16 replies 12 participants last post by  SuicideD_45  
#1 ·
Hey guys, I need your help.. I took off the rear wheel and i'm trying to put it back together again. How do I make sure that the wheel and the belt are sitting straight and centered? I forgot to take notes before I took it off...... pls help.
 
#3 ·
Make sure you are using the same alignment marks on both sides. Then spin the wheel to ensure the belt is tracking properly. Minor adjustments as needed to get the belt straight and you should be good to go.
 
#4 ·
Almost forgot, once you have it straight you need to adjust the belt tension. Turn the adjusters the same amount on each side so you don't lose the proper alignment.
 
#5 ·
Tks guys.. one more thing.. How do I know if the belt is on too tight or too loose? I have a belt tension gauge but dont have instructions for it. My guess is I push up on the belt with it and the belt should only move an x amount of inches at the 10 pounds of preassure that the gauge applies. Is this right? and how many inches should the belt move?
 
#7 ·
Regardng alignment:


I had a hard time using the marks, If you dont look at the marks at the same angle on both sides you may be off just a bit.


I made a gadget out of a coat hanger. One long piece a bit longer than the distance between the rear axle and the swingarm pivot with a 90degree bend on one end. Then bend a shorter piece 90 degrees and use some electrical tape to tape it to the longer piece. You can position the fixed end to the center of the rear axle and the short piece will slide until it is centered with the swingarm pivot. The tape will hold until you can take it over to the other side and see if the measurements match.


Its a good thing.
 
#8 ·
OldMan said:
Make sure you are using the same alignment marks on both sides. Then spin the wheel to ensure the belt is tracking properly. Minor adjustments as needed to get the belt straight and you should be good to go.
That pretty much sums it up, but may I add that belt tension is as important as alignment. You want to make sure you check your belt tension with your body weight on the bike. Free play should be between 1" thru 1-1/2" max I tend to run it closer to 1". Let me add. I have never snapped a belt.
 
#11 ·
68ramair said:
the specs from yamaha call for .2"-.3" of slack. not 1"- 1.5"

And Yamaha likes to sell replacement belts. I keep mine @ about 1 inch. 24+k on the original belt and still going. A lot of guys run it at factory specs, and some never even made it to 5k. Listen to these guys, they are guiding you straight.
 
#13 ·
Aristoi said:
Is that 1" to 1.5" total or in each direction?

That is pushing up on the bottom run of the belt only. Yes, it's different than the factory specbut that's the figure the collective knowledge on the 4M has come up with. It won't snap, it won't prematurely wear out, it won'tprematurely wear the pulleys.
 
#14 ·
Dave and I put my back wheel on last night and adjusted the belt because it seem to be to tight. Here is something that I learned last night. If the belt is not seated properly on the front pulley your adjustment will be way off. We thought that we had it right until I started the bike and went down the road only to discover the belt was way to loose. I would recommend starting the bike, putting it in first gear, easying forward abit if you have had the rear wheel off just to make sure the belt seated properly.My warrior is approaching6 years old, 15k miles on the original belt with the belt adjustedon the tight side 1"-1.5". If the bellt is to loose you will know it especially if you luanch the bike hard.
 
#15 ·
Couple of hints from the service manual; (this isn't my opinion, this is from the manual) others have their own opinions about belt tension so take this for what its worth. Also I'd give a shout out to Arizona Warrior for the help with my "squeeking belt" issue which turned out to be a WORN OUT FRONT PULLEY. Going through that whole process gave me some great experience with alignment and belt tension work.


NOTE*** I would "suggest"aligning the belt first, then set the belt tension, then double check the belt alignment and then lock everything down to torque specs.This may be obvious, but I also tried adjusting things and had forgotten to loosen the rear brake caliper/frame bolt (DUH!).


BELT TENSION


1. do you have the lower belt cover on? it has the "level window" with markings on it. Each mark is 5mm (.20in) apart.


2. take note, there are 2 adjustments to the tension. 1 on on the lift?? called the "suitable stand" or off the floor, and the other is on the floor/on the sidestand. these are 2 disctinctly differant measurements either is acceptable according to the manual.


3. roll the bike back and forth if on the floor and find the tightest position of the lower belt. You'll see the belt will go tight andslack on the bottom when rolling that rear wheel.If ona stand, again just roll that rear wheel while watching the bottom of the belt and when it is tight you are ready to adjust.


4. lay down and get comfortable on the floor, note the mark on the level window where the belt is lined up with before you get started. As you apply pressure note how many marks the belt moves until you hit 10lbs of pressure. If you are checking on the lift, it should only have moved between 7-9mm which is 1.5 to almost 2 level window marks. If on the floor on the side stand, it should only move between 6-8mm which is like a little over 1 to 1.5 level window marks. Once you get this the belt tension is set to service manual specs.
 
#16 ·
Mine is adjusted to the .3 spec and showing no signs of wear after 8000 miles. But I must admit that it seems very tight at that spec. I was thinking of loosening it. Now reading this I think I will.