You could charge the battery and then disconnect it from your motorcycle. If it goes dead then, it is a bad battery.

 

Yeah I just did that. Will see how it goes.


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You can also check what the battery reads with a voltmeter when the bike is running. It should be about 13.4 volts.

 

just yank it out have it tested and put the new one in its place even newer batteries take a shittt for no real rhyme or reason, bet chaa! btk572

 

You mite have the click of death if you have replace lighting with led

 

My kuryakyn bulbs aren't led but it could be!! What exactly is it? I've read up on it a bit. I haven't heard a click from the bike though. The bulb I had before was a 35watt which they say not to use with these lights(kuryakyn silver bullets). The new one is a 20watt. The blinker was clicking faster on the left side and when I took out the bulb didn't appear to be fried, just it's lens broken, probably from the heat of the bulb!!


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Is your warm idle set to 850~950 rpm, or is it set lower?

 

It's right around the 950 mark for warm idle.


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So I just went downstairs and I checked the battery. The charger says it's above 80% (green light flashing) and I checked it with the voltmeter and it said 13.74 volts but was steadily decreasing, about 0.1 volts per second.

I put the battery in and when running I'm getting 14.2 or so on the voltmeter, so that tells me that its charging the battery right?

 

Next step if it were me I'd check if there's some sort of parasitic drain on the battery with the key off, or a battery post that is not tight or is corroded, or some loose-wire issue.

 

I'm gonna leave the battery out for the day and see if it is draining on it's own and not holding a charge. I suck at electrical stuff!! Ha

 

Up to the first page of this thread, sounds almost exactly what I went through with the battery on my zero turn (and, in my case, it was the battery…..which was less than a year old!). Good idea to leave the battery out for a day or so and re-check the voltage. Oh, and (my) lesson learned…..those pretty green lights on the tenders don't mean a whole lot when you're already having battery/charging issues.

 

So the battery has been out of the bike for about 12 hours and the voltmeter is reading 13.28 now which would suggest that its holding a decent charge. I'll leave it out overnight anyway and recheck it in the morning.
This suggests that there is probably some parasitic drain on the bike!!! Grrrr......

 

a fully charged 12v batt will read 12.6-12.7 volts. if you take it off the charge and check it, it will read much higher than that. you need to allow the spike to come down to 12.7 volts. then check a day later. should not be below 12.6 volts even after several days and more. once this is ruled out, reinstall the battery into the bike and connect the negative batt cable. then place a 12 volt bulb between the positive cable and the pos batt post. I use a small side marker light socket from any automobile. [you can get one from napa with a set of wires 6 inches long on it]. make sure the key is off during the test. if the bulb lights up even slightly, you have a drain in your electrical system. if the bulb glows at all, start removing fuses and disconnecting wire plugs until the light goes out. then you will have found your drain. with a little info to help you, anyone can fix electrical problems.

 

also once done all your test and repairs, test the voltage at the battery with the bike running with a good quality voltmeter. it should be very close to 14.4 volts. you may have to rev it up a bit to test it correctly. if you are over 15 volts that could ruin your battery also over time and you may need to check the regulator. good luck.

 

dont know for sure but the warrior may just slightly light a light , beecause the ecu i believe still has power in a small amount running thru it for the memory and clock, i could be wrong . btk572

 

4bangdan, thanks man. Such a logical way to look for a problem. I'll be doing that for sure!!


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So the drain on the battery is coming from this red lead coming off the main positive lead. Anyone know what it goes to? It seems to go down and not forward towards the ignition.
Even with it unplugged, the bike starts, and everything I can visually see seems to be working!!


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aaaaaah there are 5 or 6 red wires in that photo , lol btk572

 

Its the one with the big white plugs taken apart. I figured out that it goes to the LCV. So I have a problem with that or the Decompression solenoid. I disconnected the LCV on its end and it looks like I still have a drain. I did a diagnostic and didn't get anything back from the solenoid but when the starter is pressed it does work so I'm guessing thats not it. All I have now is that the red wire in the picture is for the LCV and therein lies my issues.

Does the LCV make a consistent noise when tested? Mine has two different "clicking" noises. It starts with one and then gets weird!!

 

The red POS cable off the battery goes to the starter relay, and the branch goes to the Decompression Solenoid fuse. None go directly to the LCV. The LCV is powered via the ECU.

That red branch also goes to the clock and odometer, the clock pulls a very small amount of juice it should not be doing battery damage that fast.

That red branch is also in the circuit with the Rectifier/Regulator which should not be the trouble source for a parasitic drain.

 

out of all of this has the battery been load checked and tested i havent read anything to that nature yet, a bad cell in the battery will do exactly as this is doing, btk572

 

In the OP he said its a new battery and asked if this could be a bad new battery, so I think he's in the mode of checking-off a short-list of things before assuming the new battery is bad since its less common. But yep he knows it could be a bad cell.

 

The battery checked out and is holding a charge just fine.

The red POS cable off the battery goes to the starter relay, and the branch goes to the Decompression Solenoid fuse. None go directly to the LCV. The LCV is powered via the ECU.

That red branch also goes to the clock and odometer, the clock pulls a very small amount of juice it should not be doing battery damage that fast.

That red branch is also in the circuit with the Rectifier/Regulator which should not be the trouble source for a parasitic drain.

So would this mean that when unplugged, the decompression solenoid would not work? The bike starts fine with it unplugged and is charging fine. I have a vbak and whoever installed it attached the LCV to the underside of a plate that has other plugs on top. When I unplug the wire, the LCV shuts off immediately!! This is confusing...

 

There is a difference between sitting idle and holding a charge, and having a starting load applied to it and being able to deliver power over the time required. But I agree it sounds like your battery is doing fine, and I also agree with btk that its still a possibility the battery is bad but its sounding to me more likely its a parasitic drain or corrosion in the circuit or similar.

The decompression solenoid is there to make the big pistons easier to crank to start in order to preserve the battery over time. Its going to start with the decomp unplugged, but over time the battery will feel it and will wear out sooner.

Its still very unclear which of the wires you have pictured that you are disconnecting so your confusion can be solved by looking at the wiring diagram. I apologize for having guessed wrong!

The LCV has a connector at the battery POS that is a red/black wire, it goes to ECU-37 and also to the LCV for power at key-on BUT the power cannot go anywhere unless the other ECU connections at ECU-21, 22, 43, 44 are in a particular configuration or move into that configuration and so complete the circuit. Wassup with that is described in the manual. I don't believe your LCV is the trouble because that would mean the ECU has failed and obviously it has not.

Have another look at which-ever red wire you are disconnecting and follow that wire along its path for couplings and wire colors and compare to the wiring diagram and it'll come clear.

 

Thanks for the help. I disconnected the red wire that is running to the right of the main positive lead as you look at it in the picture, it is connected at the the terminal with the positive lead.
The decompression solenoid works with it unplugged or not, tried both. The only thing I can see from it, is that the LCV stops working. I will look through the wiring diagrams again and see if I can narrow it down further. Maybe there is a short somewhere along that wire.