Just start from the bottom and work your way up. Once you remove the brake lines from the calipers in the front you can open the resevoir to drain the lines. I wrap a cloth around the ends of the lines for protection. be careful not to allow brake fluid to come in contact with any painted surfaces.

 

Scott,
bleed out all the brake fluid from the caliper. It will not take long to drain the mc that way. Just don't get the brake fluid on any paint. Make sure you wipe clean with a wet towel several times if you do get paint on it. Never wipe the brake fluid off w/ a dry towel.
Also, if you don;t already have one, invest in a mighty vac or similar brake line vacuum pump. Beats the heck out of pumping the pedals and is much more effective at getting rid of air bubbles in the lines.

 

As stated, take the necessary precautions to protect your investment from any stray brake fluid or spills!

With your late model '07' bike I suggest the followingirect the brake fluid from the right frt caliper into a glass jar using surgical tubing at the bleeder screw. Tie the frt MC brake lever so that it is partially operated. Remove the banjo bolt at the MC and cover the end with a small sandwich bag and elastic band.

The brake fluid should run freely from the hose into the jar. Remove caliper banjo bolt and bag end. Repeat this procedure for the left caliper.

Rear brakes same procedure but wedge the brake pedal between the exhaust pipe to prevent loss of fluid from MC brake reservoir. Remember, you need to open the bleeder 1st before operating the pedal

I found gravity bleeding the rear brakes to be more tenuous after replacing the stock brake hose then was the frt!
It was necessary for me to loosen the rear MC (2-screws) and twist it in such a fashion so that the air could escape from the right angle portion of the new hose at the MC outlet. Essentially, I twisted it so that the angled end was vertical & sloped to release the air. I also dismounted and blocked the caliper piston and positioned it as low as possible with the bleeder screw pointing up.

If gravity bleeding is used just be sure that the air isn't trapped at the nose of the MC or any fitting. I always follow up with the typical/traditional pumping of the lever or pedal in unison w/the bleeder screw.

Up frt start with the furthest caliper 1st to remove the air…leaving the reservoir cover open or loose will help the fluid flow quicker. The position of the MC nose is critical to be successful with this procedure. Short stroking of the lever will remove the air from the banjo fitting if the MC is tilted w/the nose down and the fitting at a right angle.

This isn't rocket science, just remember that the air wants to rise so you need to provide the proper path [

] Investing in a proper vacuum device is certainly quicker but isn't req'd IMO.

 

+1 with alanH , do it yourself and save your money, the less the dealer touches your bike the better,imho. good luck fella [/emoticons/emotion-1.gif]

 

Thanks for the feed back! It sounds more difficult than doing any other mod I have done, even those that took 8 hours. So I should buy one of those bleeder kits with tubes and a jar. So the vacuum is optional. I might take a shot at it we shall see. So how long does it take by the way for the front and for the rear?

 

Go for it fella, and when you have it nailed and can do it with your eyes closed.......come on down and do mine!

 

i think it took my about an hour for both the front and rear, basically all you do is take off the old ones ( making sure you dont leak fluid all over the place ) and bolt the new ones then refill the M/C's and bleed them, like alan said , the vacum pump isnt absolutely necessary but is very helpful ( you can also use it for other auto repair jobs)

 

Okay.. this is what I understand:

1) Connect a tube at the bleeder screw located in the front caliper and open the bleeder?.
2) Tie the frt MC brake lever so that it is partially operated (pull the lever half way in?).
3) Remove the banjo bolt at the MC and cover the end with a small sandwich bag and elastic band (what about the fluid in the MC?). The brake fluid should run freely from the hose into the jar.
4) Remove caliper banjo bolt and bag end. Repeat this procedure for the left caliper.

Rear brakes
1) Put a tube on the bleeder screw and open the bleeder?
2) Follow the same procedure as the front, but wedge the brake pedal between the exhaust pipe to prevent loss of fluid from MC brake reservoir (keep it pressed half way or not pressed?). Remember, you need to open the bleeder 1st before operating the pedal
4) It was necessary for me to loosen the rear MC (2-screws) and twist it in such a fashion so that the air could escape from the right angle portion of the new hose at the MC outlet. Essentially, I twisted it so that the angled end was vertical & sloped to release the air. I also dismounted and blocked the caliper piston and positioned it as low as possible with the bleeder screw pointing up.

If gravity bleeding is used just be sure that the air isn't trapped at the nose of the MC or any fitting. I always follow up with the typical/traditional pumping of the lever or pedal in unison w/the bleeder screw.

f. Fully pull the brake lever or fully press down
the brake pedal and hold it in position.
g. Loosen the bleed screw.
NOTE:
_
Loosening the bleed screw will release the
pressure and cause the brake lever to contact
the throttle grip or the brake pedal to fully
extend.
h. Tighten the bleed screw and then release
the brake lever or brake pedal.
i. Repeat steps (e) to (h) until all of the air
bubbles have disappeared from the brake
fluid in the plastic hose.
j. Tighten the bleed screw to specification.

Up frt start with the furthest caliper 1st to remove the air…leaving the reservoir cover open or loose will help the fluid flow quicker. The position of the MC nose is critical to be successful with this procedure. Short stroking of the lever will remove the air from the banjo fitting if the MC is tilted w/the nose down and the fitting at a right angle.

This isn't rocket science, just remember that the air wants to rise so you need to provide the proper path Investing in a proper vacuum device is certainly quicker but isn't req'd IMO.