I would go with the adjustable link's...... And the 1000# pound spring ..........Good luck...........

 

There are basically 4 types of lowering methods. The first and most expensive is an air suspension which allows you to raise and lower your bike and generally there is around 4 to 5 inches of travel. The most popular for the Warrior is the TAS or Tricky air suspension.
the second method is a flip and grind. If you search flip and grind you will see how this is done and it lowers your warrior a specific amount ( sorry not sure the amount) and the bike always remains in this position and is not adjustable.
the third method is to get a lowering kit.The most popular are Barons or PCS which also lower your bike a specific amount and are non adjustable. These kits give you new links which lower the rear of the bike when you replace your stock links. they usually lower your rear around 1.5 inches. Usually most members when they go with this method or the next method swap out the stock spring for a heavier spring rate or a progressive spring rate.
the fourth and probably most recommendable for someone who does not want to shell out a lot of $$$ for air is adjustable links. This kits also swap out your stock links but give you adjustable links so that you can adjust the amount of lowering so for instance if you lower 2 inches for solo riding if a passenger seems to be too much then you can adjust them to raise the bike a bit more.

These kits basically lower the rear of your bike. they do not lower the front and as such will give your bike a different stance. you can also get raked fork trees either 6 or 7 degree which will lower the front of your bike. You could also probably loosen the fork clamps and raise your forks somewhat in the trees however you need to be very careful doing this as if you raise your forks in your trees the travel between the neck and the front fender is reduced and if reduced too much it could cause an accident if you hit a big bump

hope this helps you out

 

another option to lower front end is go to a 17" front wheel.The added bonus to that is huge tire selection

 

IMO avoid the flip-and-grind. Removing a bit too much material results in a broken link at some inconvenient point in the future. But if you do it anyway, there's a pic in the Documentation forum showing an example. Even doing a flip-grind as 'right' as known possible its still less strong than it was and is not height-adjustable so you are stuck with where it is.

Barons / LA Choppers / PCS / Soupys all have good quality manually-adjustable links. The eBay and CL links are actually often very cheap hardware and you probably don't want that under your butt at-speed. Its a good idea to buy what ever brand you want but buy from a known supplier/seller.

The following should give you enough info to prime your search effort: > http://www.rswarrior.com/forums/92-documentation/180243-warrior-modifications-how-intermediate.html

 

You can also get a Barons relay arm. This uses stock dog bones. It's basically a professionally done flip and grind.

 

I would get a quality set of adjustable links so that you can set the height to exactly what you need. a stiffer spring will be required depending on how much you weigh and if you ride 2up.

 

We have adjustable links and #1000 springs in stock.
FREE SHIPPING for RSWARRIOR members!

 

That's good to know!

 

The cheapest/safest/fastest way to lower is to stretch your stock links. All you need is a welder or someone that can welds. Its not hard and you can get it done close to nothing. The only problem is its a permanent height setting.

 

Thank you all for your advice. I will be sure to ask for it again when I see one I like before buying it

 

you should take Crown up on their present offer. Always good to support our site vendors and these guys have a reputation for helping out their clients so if you have any questions about your install they will help you out. I don't think you can go wrong with the adjustable links and the Elbach spring has proven itself through the use by many of our site members.

 

I have some links that came with a stock relay I bought off ebay. You can have them for the cost of shipping if you want them.

I don't know what brand they are, but they are black and I meassure 11 21/32" center to center. That should lower it about 1 1/2".

 

That'd be great brizzman. Shoot me your PayPal and I'll send you the money. Thanks man

 

I think the stock dogbone length is something like 289 or 290 mm or about 11-3/8". Making the dogbones longer drops the rear. There's a couple threads/posts around here with dimensional info (related to adjustable links and number of turns to achieve a dogbone length in order to drop the bike a desired amount). These bones are 11-21/32" or about ~17 mm longer. Have to run so cannot do the math but the OP's data could be right. Figured I'd post this in case helpful.

 

I didn't do the math, I just read some old threads back when I first got them.

If rij1 says they're 1 3/4" they probably are. It sounds like all the main ones are the same.

 

Brizzman, aren't those the LA Choppers links?

Stock length links 11 5/16"
LA Choppers/PCS/BARONS length links 11 21/32"
3/8" longer then stock. The links will drop is to drop the bike about 1 3/4".

 

rij1, they may be LA Chopper links, but I don't see any markings on them, so I'm not sure. They are the ones you pointed me to on ebay and I bought for the stock relay arm. I still haven't gotten around to installing it yet.

mkenderish, PM me your address and I'll find out how much they'll cost to ship. I probably won't get a chance to send them until Friday.

 

Good question after 5 years for certain. You might call them since he's not around here much anymore. Maybe Baron still has them. Or LA Choppers.

 

Man last time I bought mine they were like $85 but the cheapest is these guys which I bought from years ago.

Baron BA-7500-20 Rear Shock Drop Bracket Lowering Kit 1"-2" | eBay

Rear Shock Drop Bracket Lowering Kit.

www.ebay.com