I finally got to install my m-lock yesterday. Its a RFID module that turns the bike on and off with the swipe of the fob. Got it from motogadget.com
The kit comes with the bare necessities. It has the m-lock, relay, master (teacher) fob, user fob, 1 amp fuse ,fuse holder, few connectors with covers, and very vague instructions.
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You will need to get more wire and connectors.I also bought a new four pin connector from cycleterminal.com. It was the 4 pin 6.3mm-.250 male and female set. Worked out great.
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This goes without saying but you'll need electrical tape and a soldering iron and solder. You may also need the backing capacitor to go with the m-lock. From what I'm told, you'll definitely need it if you have aftermarket coils. Its an extra $15. My advice is to get an extra fob too. Just in case.
The first thing you need to do is disconnect the battery. From there, pull the tank and the headlight ring and glass assembly. Inside the headlight bucket find the ignition connector. Its the plug with 4 wires(Red, Brown/blue,Yellow/blue and Blue/black.
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Disconnect it from the key ignition switch. I cut off the bike side connector and used the one i bought. You reuse the red and the brown/blue wire.
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You'll be left with three smaller gauge wires ( 2 blue/yellow and a blue/black). These get soldered together.
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If you forget to do this, the bike will throw a code (19 to be exact) and won't start.
I soldered the wires into the other end of the connector and connected the relay separately. This is where the instructions are kinda useless. The wires for the terminals are: #85- Ground (battery or frame.I used the battery for this one). #86-Brown wire from the m-lock itself. #87-This is the power from the bike. Its the warrior RED wire. #30- The ignition wire. This gets connected to the Brown/blue wire. I left the relay under the seat just in case i ever need to get to it. But you can put it anywhere. Once this i finished, i ran the connector on the left frame rail under the tank to the headlight. It was less congested and easier for me.
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Plug the connector together making sure the wires match. You're done in the headlight.
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Now the m-lock sensor is pretty straight forward. Red to the battery, Black to ground ( here i used the ground by the oil fill) and the brown to the relay. Make sure you solder the fuse holder into the red wire. Leave the fuse out.
After all the wires are connected where they are supposed to be, i reconnected the battery and all the connections (grounds and power). This is when i put the fuse in.
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To make sure I wired everything correctly, I used the master key. Hold it over the sensor ( no more than two inches away) the bike should click on then off. This means you're ready to 'teach' the keys. Don't swipe the teacher key again. This sets up the teaching mode. This part is very simple. Now that the teach mode is setup, run each key over the sensor. If the key takes, the bike will turn on then off. Once you have all keys 'taught' run the master back over one more time and you are good to go. double check to make sure the keys took. The bike should light up and stay on with the first swipe. To turn off the bike, re-swipe and the bike should shut off. That's it. That hardest part of this whole setup is figuring out where you want the sensor. The direction say to keep it away from a direct heat source and don't put in under metal. The metal will block the signal.
With the way i wired up my m-lock, the fork lock still works. I like the lock for when i park it at night. You can completely remove it if you want, but that's up to you.
I just want to say a huge than you to Alanh and Ariak. Their wiring knowledge and diagrams helped a ton. And thanks to Buddy. Basically held my hand throught out the whole process. Thanks guys.
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I have a video of it working but cant seem to get it to upload.
Hope this helps
Tj
The kit comes with the bare necessities. It has the m-lock, relay, master (teacher) fob, user fob, 1 amp fuse ,fuse holder, few connectors with covers, and very vague instructions.
You will need to get more wire and connectors.I also bought a new four pin connector from cycleterminal.com. It was the 4 pin 6.3mm-.250 male and female set. Worked out great.
This goes without saying but you'll need electrical tape and a soldering iron and solder. You may also need the backing capacitor to go with the m-lock. From what I'm told, you'll definitely need it if you have aftermarket coils. Its an extra $15. My advice is to get an extra fob too. Just in case.
The first thing you need to do is disconnect the battery. From there, pull the tank and the headlight ring and glass assembly. Inside the headlight bucket find the ignition connector. Its the plug with 4 wires(Red, Brown/blue,Yellow/blue and Blue/black.
Disconnect it from the key ignition switch. I cut off the bike side connector and used the one i bought. You reuse the red and the brown/blue wire.
You'll be left with three smaller gauge wires ( 2 blue/yellow and a blue/black). These get soldered together.
If you forget to do this, the bike will throw a code (19 to be exact) and won't start.
I soldered the wires into the other end of the connector and connected the relay separately. This is where the instructions are kinda useless. The wires for the terminals are: #85- Ground (battery or frame.I used the battery for this one). #86-Brown wire from the m-lock itself. #87-This is the power from the bike. Its the warrior RED wire. #30- The ignition wire. This gets connected to the Brown/blue wire. I left the relay under the seat just in case i ever need to get to it. But you can put it anywhere. Once this i finished, i ran the connector on the left frame rail under the tank to the headlight. It was less congested and easier for me.
Plug the connector together making sure the wires match. You're done in the headlight.
Now the m-lock sensor is pretty straight forward. Red to the battery, Black to ground ( here i used the ground by the oil fill) and the brown to the relay. Make sure you solder the fuse holder into the red wire. Leave the fuse out.
After all the wires are connected where they are supposed to be, i reconnected the battery and all the connections (grounds and power). This is when i put the fuse in.
To make sure I wired everything correctly, I used the master key. Hold it over the sensor ( no more than two inches away) the bike should click on then off. This means you're ready to 'teach' the keys. Don't swipe the teacher key again. This sets up the teaching mode. This part is very simple. Now that the teach mode is setup, run each key over the sensor. If the key takes, the bike will turn on then off. Once you have all keys 'taught' run the master back over one more time and you are good to go. double check to make sure the keys took. The bike should light up and stay on with the first swipe. To turn off the bike, re-swipe and the bike should shut off. That's it. That hardest part of this whole setup is figuring out where you want the sensor. The direction say to keep it away from a direct heat source and don't put in under metal. The metal will block the signal.
With the way i wired up my m-lock, the fork lock still works. I like the lock for when i park it at night. You can completely remove it if you want, but that's up to you.
I just want to say a huge than you to Alanh and Ariak. Their wiring knowledge and diagrams helped a ton. And thanks to Buddy. Basically held my hand throught out the whole process. Thanks guys.
I have a video of it working but cant seem to get it to upload.
Hope this helps
Tj
