I bought the Kuryakyn mirrors with the built in turn signals. My intentions were to completely remove the stock front turn signals and replace them with what I bought. Has anyone done this procedure in which they completely removed the stock and replaced them with the mirrors/turn signals????
ROADDOG1
I installed these a while back. I like 'em. I completely removed the stock front signals as well. Pretty easy mod.
In addition to the mirrors themselves you will need a set of adapter studs specifically for Yamahas to mount these mirrors. Kuryakyn sells them. Unfortunately they are pretty low quality and they rust fairly quickly. I have been told by others that Drag Specialties also makes adapter studs and that they are better quality, but I have yet to find them anywhere.
On the electrical side, you will need to install a "load equalizer" if you remove the stock signals. The equalizer that comes with the mirrors will not work properly, as it is designed for a Harley's electrical system. The easiest route to go is to buy the Kuryakyn #4866 load qualizer, about $15.00. If you go this route you will need only one #4866 to handle both signals. The cheapest way to go is to buy TWO ceramic resistors, 10 ohm, 25 watts, at an electronics shop, maybe $3. You need two resistors, one for each signal. Actually, the #4866 load equalizer is just two resistors neatly packaged together. Install the resistors, or equalizer, in parallel with each of the signals, not the running lights. The running light wires are blue for both sides, the signal wires are brown for one side and green for the other. You can install the equalizer either up front within the head light housing (there is room though it is tight) or under the seat. Under the seat is more room, but it takes a little more time to identify the correct wires to splice into. I prefer installing up front. That way all modifications are "outboard" of the stock snap connectors for the turn signals and the wiring harness is left unchanged.
Another thing to note. The leads on the mirrors are not quite long enough (at least mine were not) if you have stock handle bars and run the leads down the bars with the existing wiring. I had to solder extensions onto each of the existing leads.
If you have any questions just ask.
In addition to the mirrors themselves you will need a set of adapter studs specifically for Yamahas to mount these mirrors. Kuryakyn sells them. Unfortunately they are pretty low quality and they rust fairly quickly. I have been told by others that Drag Specialties also makes adapter studs and that they are better quality, but I have yet to find them anywhere.
On the electrical side, you will need to install a "load equalizer" if you remove the stock signals. The equalizer that comes with the mirrors will not work properly, as it is designed for a Harley's electrical system. The easiest route to go is to buy the Kuryakyn #4866 load qualizer, about $15.00. If you go this route you will need only one #4866 to handle both signals. The cheapest way to go is to buy TWO ceramic resistors, 10 ohm, 25 watts, at an electronics shop, maybe $3. You need two resistors, one for each signal. Actually, the #4866 load equalizer is just two resistors neatly packaged together. Install the resistors, or equalizer, in parallel with each of the signals, not the running lights. The running light wires are blue for both sides, the signal wires are brown for one side and green for the other. You can install the equalizer either up front within the head light housing (there is room though it is tight) or under the seat. Under the seat is more room, but it takes a little more time to identify the correct wires to splice into. I prefer installing up front. That way all modifications are "outboard" of the stock snap connectors for the turn signals and the wiring harness is left unchanged.
Another thing to note. The leads on the mirrors are not quite long enough (at least mine were not) if you have stock handle bars and run the leads down the bars with the existing wiring. I had to solder extensions onto each of the existing leads.
If you have any questions just ask.
DeWarrior, thanks for the detailed description. Now I feel a little more confortable doing it myself. Just to make sure I understood you correctly, are you saying you could complete this installation without doing anything under the seat? If you have any pics on wiring and installation you did, that would be awesome. Thanks
I have been trying to borrow a digital camera from a friend, he can't seem to remember to bring it into work, and as soon as I get ahold of it I will take some detailed pics.
Yes, you can install these mirrors without having to mess with anything under the seat. The only reason for maybe going under the seat is that there is more room in there for placement of the load equalizer or resistors. However, there is room to place these in the head light housing, it is just a little tighter in there. IMHO it is easier and better to place them in the head light housing. 1) you don't make any changes to the wiring harness and 2) it is that much easier to remove if you set things up right (about as long as it takes to take the headlight out and undo a few snap connectors).
Yes, you can install these mirrors without having to mess with anything under the seat. The only reason for maybe going under the seat is that there is more room in there for placement of the load equalizer or resistors. However, there is room to place these in the head light housing, it is just a little tighter in there. IMHO it is easier and better to place them in the head light housing. 1) you don't make any changes to the wiring harness and 2) it is that much easier to remove if you set things up right (about as long as it takes to take the headlight out and undo a few snap connectors).
Okay, finally got that camera. Better late than never I guess.
Attached should be a picture of the wiring I did inside the head light housing. Only one of the mirror signal lead connections is clearly visible, but the other is identical. Likewise only one of the mirror ground lead connections is clearly visible. The other mirror ground lead connection is different in that the ground lead from the equalizer is also connected to the other stock ground lead. Don't get confused, ground is ground it doesn't really matter which ground goes where, but if you are using the #4866 equalizer from Kuryakyn you have three grounds that need to be attached (one from each mirror and one from the equalizer) and only two ground leads from the stock signal harness. So, one mirror ground to one of the stock ground leads, and the other mirror ground plus the equalizer ground to the other stock ground lead. If you are using resistors you will have four ground leads, two each to each stock ground lead.
I used snap connectors for all connections, these are the lumps under all the electrical tape that you see at each connection.
Each Mirror Running light lead is connected to one of the stock running light leads from the harness, a simple two wire splice.
Each Mirror Signal lead PLUS one of the "hot" leads from the equalizer are connected to one of the stock signal leads from the harness. I did this by selecting a snap connector that was large enough to accept two wires instead of just one, there are other ways but this seemed easiest. Snap connectors for 22 - 18 gauge wire are large enough to accept the stock signal lead wire and the "hot" wire from the equalizer, so I put these wires together on the female piece of the snap connector and attached the male piece to the Mirror signal lead.
Oops! let me figure out how to insert an image, and I will post it on the next post
Attached should be a picture of the wiring I did inside the head light housing. Only one of the mirror signal lead connections is clearly visible, but the other is identical. Likewise only one of the mirror ground lead connections is clearly visible. The other mirror ground lead connection is different in that the ground lead from the equalizer is also connected to the other stock ground lead. Don't get confused, ground is ground it doesn't really matter which ground goes where, but if you are using the #4866 equalizer from Kuryakyn you have three grounds that need to be attached (one from each mirror and one from the equalizer) and only two ground leads from the stock signal harness. So, one mirror ground to one of the stock ground leads, and the other mirror ground plus the equalizer ground to the other stock ground lead. If you are using resistors you will have four ground leads, two each to each stock ground lead.
I used snap connectors for all connections, these are the lumps under all the electrical tape that you see at each connection.
Each Mirror Running light lead is connected to one of the stock running light leads from the harness, a simple two wire splice.
Each Mirror Signal lead PLUS one of the "hot" leads from the equalizer are connected to one of the stock signal leads from the harness. I did this by selecting a snap connector that was large enough to accept two wires instead of just one, there are other ways but this seemed easiest. Snap connectors for 22 - 18 gauge wire are large enough to accept the stock signal lead wire and the "hot" wire from the equalizer, so I put these wires together on the female piece of the snap connector and attached the male piece to the Mirror signal lead.
Oops! let me figure out how to insert an image, and I will post it on the next post
Now for tail lights. Kuryakyn.com product #4701 has a run-turn-brake light combination becoming available for yamaha in July. These new lights should run red and flash yellow when turning--very cool. But what's up with DOT certified? Anyone know the law? I read somewhere the silver bullets were not DOT cert.
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