For everyone's future reference, I just got an email from Power Commander's Tech Support and they said for the Warrior, the engine must be running and up to operating temperature. Looks like I might have some mad neighboors tomorrow when I start reving my bike in my garage (I live in a condo that is attached to 5 others and have Big Shots on my bike).

 

There's almost zero reason to reset 100% throttle it's probably fine. Just reset zero% throttle. Take your bike for a ~15 minute ride then connect to your PC and again start your bike, and reset just zero%. Hopefully the PCV instructons mention both 0% and 100% reset as separate tasks. The way they word it for the PC3, its sorta tricky to catch the difference.

 

I suggest doing the following:

With the bike warmed up and running go to power commander tools, Calibrate, Throttle position. You will see the real time sensor voltage displayed in the middle of the TPS calibration window. Enter the value in the window into the minimum voltage cell to the left of the voltage window. When done your reading at closed throttle should be 0%. There is often a bunch of noise in the signal so there may be some flickering of the voltage reading. You may find that you have to bump the low voltage reading up a little.



Using your example of 0.600 VDC for min throttle and let's just say it reads 3.9 vdc at WOT. What you might observe is that the real time display flickers up to 6.33 volts at idle/closed throttle. In that case the Power Commander will be reading 1% throttle with the throttle closed. Manually input the larger vale and the 1% should drop to a 0% reading. If you put in too big a number you will obviously have a negative throttle position reading at closed throttle.



To summarize, you are right. You can enter the numbers manually, and sometimes that's the easiest way to get them right and stable.

 

On the PCV they can't be reset separately. When you click the reset button it clears both 0% and 100%, so both have to be reset.

 

For everyone's future reference, I just got an email from Power Commander's Tech Support and they said for the Warrior, the engine must be running and up to operating temperature. Looks like I might have some mad neighboors tomorrow when I start reving my bike in my garage (I live in a condo that is attached to 5 others and have Big Shots on my bike).

I had the same problem on my bike. I called V&H and they said the bike had to be running. So I turned the bike on in the garage and opened the throttle WOT with the big shots. Crap, that hurt my hears!!!! Worked though. If I ever have to do that again, I will use ear plugs.

 

That sux. I still use the PC3USB but intend to upgrade at some point, so this is of interest. I notice the PCVsays (for fly-by-wire bikes) only recalibrate 0% and don't recalibrate 100%unless you are on a dyno. What those guys do to just set 0%?
from:
http://www.powercommander.com/powercommander/Support/Help/wwhelp/wwhimpl/js/html/wwhelp.htm#href=3_PC5.1.19.html

To Calibrate the Throttle Position
For fly-by-wire motorcycles, do not calibrate the full throttle position unless you are on a dynamometer.






1

Select Power Commander Tools ?Calibrate ?Throttle Position.





2

Verify the engine is running.





3

With the throttle closed, click Reset.





4

Fully open the throttle and close it. The open throttle value will be stored.
The open and closed number can be changed manually to fine tune.






5

Click OK.

On the PCV they can't be reset separately. When you click the reset button it clears both 0% and 100%, so both have to be reset.

 

Maybe I wont have to rev it. As long as I have the 100% figured out, it appears as though I can just hook it up and let it idle and enterthe idle voltage as the 0% value.


I'm not sure how it would work for the fly-by-wire bikes, but it says it must be done on a dyno. I though I had read something at one point that the reasoning is because it is load based.

 

Good thread. I just put the PCV on my bike this winter and have yet to even start it. It came with a preloaded map from fuelmoto. I am hoping I don't have any issues because it all seems a bit greek to me.

 

I purchased mine from fuel moto as well, and although it seemed to run decent, it could have been better. I converted a couple of PCIII maps to PCV format by adding a 15% column and am now trying them out.The one I have loaded nowis for the exact mods I have and is a custom map that produced 85 hp and 110 lb-ft. of torque on someone elses bike. I compared this map to the one from fuel moto, and the fuel motomap was extremely leanin comparison.

 

I'm not sure how it would work for the fly-by-wire bikes, but it says it must be done on a dyno. I though I had read something at one point that the reasoning is because it is load based.

Many of the fly by wire bikes do not open the throttle to 100% at low rpm. For example on an R6 twisting the throttle above 40% open below 4000 rpm does not open the throttle any further than 40%. At 5000 rpm the butterflies open to something like 46%. The opening increases with rpm.



You don't get a full 100% open until after 9000 rpm. Therefore you cannot calibrate 100% throttle in your driveway. You would have to hold the throttle wide open for a few seconds with the tach bouncing of the rev limiter at 16,000 rpm for the flies to fully open.

 

So I found out it is possible to set 0% throttle without changing the 100% and vice versa. The numbers can be manually adjusted, so I was able to hook my bike up at idle and just enter the idle voltage into the 0% throttle field. If you want you can even do it with the bike off. all you have to do is click reset, turn the key on open and close the throttle and remember the voltage while closed. The max voltage will register and then you can just manually enter the closed throttle voltage, then click OK.

 

So I found out it is possible to set 0% throttle without changing the 100% and vice versa. The numbers can be manually adjusted, so I was able to hook my bike up at idle and just enter the idle voltage into the 0% throttle field. If you want you can even do it with the bike off. all you have to do is click reset, turn the key on open and close the throttle and remember the voltage while closed. The max voltage will register and then you can just manually enter the closed throttle voltage, then click OK.

Great to hear it's all worked out.

 

Because the Warrioruses a throttle position sensor I think its possibly better to have the bike warm and running to set 0% throttle. That could avoid pesky troubles related to voltage changes in hot versus cold conditions, and anything else odd. It seems like I get better results setting 0% idle on my PC3USB while both warm and running,so I'd sotra'err on the side of caution' thatits the same for the PCV on the Warrior just because that's sorta how my brainworks lol. But then I always lube the throttle cables and both ends to be sure they return all the way and don't bind 'above idle' and I always set the warm idle tobounce up to buttop-out at ~950 rpm before I reset the PC's 0% idle setting . . . overkill but maybe possibly avoids phantom issues.

So I found out it is possible to set 0% throttle without changing the 100% and vice versa. The numbers can be manually adjusted, so I was able to hook my bike up at idle and just enter the idle voltage into the 0% throttle field. If you want you can even do it with the bike off. all you have to do is click reset, turn the key on open and close the throttle and remember the voltage while closed. The max voltage will register and then you can just manually enter the closed throttle voltage, then click OK.

 

Holy crap you lost me or I missed something....Do I have to crack my bike to WOT in my driveway to read 100% or just reset it at zero when the bike is warmed up?

 

According you Dyno Jet, not the instructions that come with the PCV, you will have to crack the throttle wide open while it is running to properly reset the tps.

 

Ok i opened her up all the way. My neighbors probably want to shoot me now, but who cares, i got my wot value. Thanks

 

Because the Warrioruses a throttle position sensor I think its possibly better to have the bike warm and running to set 0% throttle. That could avoid pesky troubles related to voltage changes in hot versus cold conditions, and anything else odd. It seems like I get better results setting 0% idle on my PC3USB while both warm and running,so I'd sotra'err on the side of caution' thatits the same for the PCV on the Warrior just because that's sorta how my brainworks lol. But then I always lube the throttle cables and both ends to be sure they return all the way and don't bind 'above idle' and I always set the warm idle tobounce up to buttop-out at ~950 rpm before I reset the PC's 0% idle setting . . . overkill but maybe possibly avoids phantom issues.

Thats a good point. My bike has always been a hard starter until I calibrated the TPS properly. Some symptoms are having to crank the starter 3-5 times immediately after putting the key to the on position.

 

On the phone with Dynojet and got the following values for TPS manual voltage input:

Minimum Voltage: 0.635
Maximum Voltage: 3.872

How do these numbers compare to those noted after actual throttle reset procedure? Will they vary much from bike to bike?

 

I can't answer your exact question but can give you these numbers from the
service manual and supplement in case helpful this late in the evening.

2006 and newer:
Throttle position sensor
Resistance 4 ~ 6 kΩ/L-B
Output voltage (at idle) 0.63 ~ 0.73 V

2002-2005:
Throttle position sensor
Resistance 4 ~ 6 kΩ/L-B
Output voltage (at idle) 0.605 ~ 0.755 V

 

Thanks!

I am in Vancouver so we should hook up for some rides next year. Cheers.

 

I'm going out later to check this, but I've always calibrated it not running. Never had any issues.