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simple rectifier relocation

8.1K views 29 replies 16 participants last post by  HURD  
#1 ·
I just ordered the lower cowl, and as usual was staring at the bike,
trying to decide what to hide and how to hide it.
This mod only took me about 40 minutes. 1.5" aluminum, 2 pcs, 2.5" long. Bend 90 deg. at 1" mark. Hacksaw center .5" wide by .75" deep.
Break center section out and file smooth. Mount at motor mounts (loosen bolts and slide bracket behind). Hold rectifier over brackets and mark mounting holes. Drill out and mount. Very solid, and enough air gap over the fins to cool.

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#2 ·
have you tried fitting it on yet? it looked like it would hit doing it that way so i ended up doing mine like this. wires and plugs are not visible with the cowl on. also puts it right in line with the hole in the fairing. (polished the brackets [/emoticons/emotion-5.gif])
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#12 ·
Thanks I see it now. So Audio did you win the lottery? You went from waiting on your tax refund to having everything under the sun done to your bike! Wish I was getting the refund you got! Everything is looking good. Can't wait to see finished pics!
 
#16 ·
I was getting tired of how hard it was to align the two top cowling bolt with the holes on the frame. [/emoticons/emotion-6.gif!] I had crossed threaded one of the holes. To make taking off the cowling simpler, I installed two metric studs. The regulator bracket just hangs off this. Then I install the cowling, then top it off with a washer and an acorn nut. I zip tie the bottom of the cowling to the bikes frame. So much easier taking it off & on when I do oil filter changes. [/emoticons/emotion-1.gif]
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Regulator bracket. Never bothered painting it black. As you can't see it under the cowling screen.
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My cowling screen is just glued on with black silicon. Instead of the complicated bracket I did first time out.
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#17 ·
These chin fairings you guys have..
1) Are they a stock Yamaha item &
2) Do they come prepainted to match, or do I have do get it painted?

Audio,
You've got a place to crash at the beach if you help me with some of those DIY mods you've got! I'm not exactly what one would call mechanicaly enclined, but I have to learn somewhere... looks like this Warrior will be the place..
 
#19 ·
quote:Originally posted by Spudly

audio-
How'd you mount the horn? Also, where'd you get the bolts for your forward controls- those don't look stock and I need a new set.


SPud- the bolts are actually stock.

for the horn,its real simple. first i rebent the horn bracket and rotated it on the horn so it faced up directly aross from the opening of the horn. then thru each hole on the bracket and around the motor mount there on the frame (red line) then a second tie around the horn bracket and around the down tube to keep it snug to the frame and away from the oil filter. its close down there.


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#20 ·
quote:Originally posted by RRUFAST


Audio,
You've got a place to crash at the beach if you help me with some of those DIY mods you've got! I'm not exactly what one would call mechanicaly enclined, but I have to learn somewhere... looks like this Warrior will be the place..


this bike, a few tools, this forum, and the service manual which i can copy you on CD will teach you TONS. you know i'd be glad to help you with some stuff. just have to find some time
 
#22 ·
Thread Revival :)

Anyway, I figured this question will help me as well as anyone else who imitate's Redhorse and Audio's version of the Rectifier Relocation under the cowl with flat aluminum bar.

For those who have done this already...can someone post how long the aluminum bars are and at what lengths are they bent?

I can trial and error the angle of the bends, but knowing the length and the bend intervals will greatly reduce guessing and error.

I'd prefer Audio's version because he only has 2 bends, but either way will work.

Thanks!
 
#23 · (Edited)
I did this version the first time and it worked and looked great. Then i changed to Hurds version, putting the rectifier under the bike below the rear spring and i like this version way better. A little more work lengthening the wires and running them from front to back, making a bracket, and drilling and taping 2 holes, but worth it.
Here it is below the front pulley under the bike.
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#26 ·
Thanks for the info guys...I have already bought a flat aluminum bar and moved the horn and rectifier under the cowl area. The horn is attached, but the rectifier is just hanging by the wiring. I have not put the cowl back on because I still want to bolt the rectifier in first.

I'm happy with it being in the cowl and since I have the aluminum bar now, I might as well use it.

Anyone have the lengths and bend increments for this mod?