[Damien28]

Its the one with the big white plugs taken apart. I figured out that it goes to the LCV. So I have a problem with that or the Decompression solenoid. I disconnected the LCV on its end and it looks like I still have a drain. I did a diagnostic and didn't get anything back from the solenoid but when the starter is pressed it does work so I'm guessing thats not it. All I have now is that the red wire in the picture is for the LCV and therein lies my issues.

Does the LCV make a consistent noise when tested? Mine has two different "clicking" noises. It starts with one and then gets weird!!

 

[arizonawarrior]

The red POS cable off the battery goes to the starter relay, and the branch goes to the Decompression Solenoid fuse. None go directly to the LCV. The LCV is powered via the ECU.

That red branch also goes to the clock and odometer, the clock pulls a very small amount of juice it should not be doing battery damage that fast.

That red branch is also in the circuit with the Rectifier/Regulator which should not be the trouble source for a parasitic drain.

 

[btk572]

out of all of this has the battery been load checked and tested i havent read anything to that nature yet, a bad cell in the battery will do exactly as this is doing, btk572

 

[arizonawarrior]

In the OP he said its a new battery and asked if this could be a bad new battery, so I think he's in the mode of checking-off a short-list of things before assuming the new battery is bad since its less common. But yep he knows it could be a bad cell.

 

[Damien28]

The battery checked out and is holding a charge just fine.

The red POS cable off the battery goes to the starter relay, and the branch goes to the Decompression Solenoid fuse. None go directly to the LCV. The LCV is powered via the ECU.

That red branch also goes to the clock and odometer, the clock pulls a very small amount of juice it should not be doing battery damage that fast.

That red branch is also in the circuit with the Rectifier/Regulator which should not be the trouble source for a parasitic drain.

So would this mean that when unplugged, the decompression solenoid would not work? The bike starts fine with it unplugged and is charging fine. I have a vbak and whoever installed it attached the LCV to the underside of a plate that has other plugs on top. When I unplug the wire, the LCV shuts off immediately!! This is confusing...

 

[arizonawarrior]

There is a difference between sitting idle and holding a charge, and having a starting load applied to it and being able to deliver power over the time required. But I agree it sounds like your battery is doing fine, and I also agree with btk that its still a possibility the battery is bad but its sounding to me more likely its a parasitic drain or corrosion in the circuit or similar.

The decompression solenoid is there to make the big pistons easier to crank to start in order to preserve the battery over time. Its going to start with the decomp unplugged, but over time the battery will feel it and will wear out sooner.

Its still very unclear which of the wires you have pictured that you are disconnecting so your confusion can be solved by looking at the wiring diagram. I apologize for having guessed wrong!

The LCV has a connector at the battery POS that is a red/black wire, it goes to ECU-37 and also to the LCV for power at key-on BUT the power cannot go anywhere unless the other ECU connections at ECU-21, 22, 43, 44 are in a particular configuration or move into that configuration and so complete the circuit. Wassup with that is described in the manual. I don't believe your LCV is the trouble because that would mean the ECU has failed and obviously it has not.

Have another look at which-ever red wire you are disconnecting and follow that wire along its path for couplings and wire colors and compare to the wiring diagram and it'll come clear.

 

[Damien28]

Thanks for the help. I disconnected the red wire that is running to the right of the main positive lead as you look at it in the picture, it is connected at the the terminal with the positive lead.
The decompression solenoid works with it unplugged or not, tried both. The only thing I can see from it, is that the LCV stops working. I will look through the wiring diagrams again and see if I can narrow it down further. Maybe there is a short somewhere along that wire.

 

[arizonawarrior]

Could you describe exactly how you are determining the draw is from that wire? For example, exactly where along exactly what wire did you disconnect in order to determine the LCV still has a draw when unplugged?

 

[Damien28]

I connected a bulb between the positive lead and positive battery post. When the key was off the bulb was on. I pulled out fuses one by one and disconnected wires until it went off. That was the only wire that allowed the bulb to go off. In the picture, it's disconnected it at the white connector. I did unplug the LCV (at the LCV) and the still seemed to be a draw.

According to the wiring diagram, that wire only goes to the ECU and LCV.

 

[btk572]

the ecu has a small draw to keep it all alive even when the bike is shut off, that why i said it may still light the light, but i could be wrong, btk572

 

[danigar]

take the battery to a battery store and have it load tested, heck, Wal-Mart will even do it for you for free
the battery on my SUV would show 12+ volts and when on the tendered showed fully charged, it only showed 26 cca when I finally took it in, it should have been more like 650 cca

 

[Damien28]

The guy at the store said it showed 270, which seems pretty good!!

 

[alanh]

Damien28 ... the Warrior has (4) Separately Fused Circuits that operate w/o the KEY-ON at all times unless the battery is disconnected. To repeat myself, 'without the Key-On'
They are the following Fuses and devices listed on the wiring diagram:

1. Item 5 - ODO & Clock
2. Item 69 - Decomp Solenoid
3. Item 70 - ECU Pin 37 & LCV +12vdc
4. Item 71 - Normally Open Contact Item 11 FI System Relay

My tools of choice are my hosted wiring diagram in my signature and a DVOM meter or equivalent.

I would suggest connecting an amp meter in lieu of the bulb to see what the current draw is in mA or amps dependent on the load.

It's unclear to me what circuit fuse is operating the test bulb but if it is Item 70 i would suggest you disconnect the LCV and see if it persists.
FYI, the LCV is triggered by negative polarity momentarily during Key-Off thru ECU Pins 21, 22, 43 & 44.

The LCV has been well documented by this writer and Yamaha that it will operated w/o the Ignition Key-ON!

In the mean time perhaps a helpful member will connect an amp meter in series to check what their current draw is in mA
gl

 

[Damien28]

So I was getting 1.4mA but after having the LCV disconnected and running it for a little bit, the check engine light is for faulty LCV (37) and it won't go off even after being plugged back in. But here is the mind-****, I'm not getting a draw now or so it seems. I connected up the bulb again for shits and giggles and it wasn't lit......


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[arizonawarrior]

Yes true I am reminded that the red/black to the LCV remains powered at key-off, my error when I said at key-on. In any event it describes why the light bulb test had the outcome it did and now that you've posted the test method and location I still believe the test results you posted are normal and I don't see that you have located a parasitic drain (which would more commonly be very low draw and probably would not illuminate an incandescent bulb). There's plenty of other good suggestions so don't give-up yet! I'll check in tonight and see what you are up to, I'm interested in this one.

 

[arizonawarrior]

The ECU 'switches' controlling the LCV can be open or closed depending on the state of the switches inside the ECU at the four ECI-pin numbers I mentioned earlier. The ECU varies the switches based on incoming sensor data. There's a good write-up in the service manual about wassup.

So I was getting 1.4mA but after having the LCV disconnected and running it for a little bit, the check engine light is for faulty LCV (37) and it won't go off even after being plugged back in. But here is the mind-****, I'm not getting a draw now or so it seems. I connected up the bulb again for shits and giggles and it wasn't lit......


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[Damien28]

I'm thinking about just removing the LCV anyway!!

 

[arizonawarrior]

I've decided to leave mine installed. It really a nice improvement to not have to hold the throttle open at starting so as long as its working right I don't mind having it there.

 

[Damien28]

I am having to crack a little throttle on start up now too, which I was wasn't having to do before. It runs great besides!!!

 

[Gilly]

I'm thinking about just removing the LCV anyway!!

You wont regret it. Mine has been gone for years. I have a breakaway cruise control that i use to let it warm up till i get my helmet and riding gear on. I hated that every time i stopped for anything like gas or just to get a coke, i had to deal with the high idle when the bike was already warmed up. I don't like putting my bike in gear with the motor at high idle and having to wait till the LCV would idle it down before i could go. I guess i am a little impatient.