The easy out bit snapped off also and the broken part is in the stud.


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The easy out bit snapped off also and the broken part is in the stud.


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Well that makes it a little harder.

Some heat and penetrating oil might help get the piece of easy out removed.

Get a pic of out here for us. Any surface left for you to work with on the bolt?

Can you drill a hole in the top of the broken stud or has the easy out taken all the surface?

 

They make some star bits that i used. Get the right size and just put it in the hole you drilled and hit it with a hammer, it breaks up the easy out and it falls out. At least mine did.

 

spot weld to the stud with a mig welder turned up a little over what you would do a regular spot weld with , hit the stud ,dont worry the weld will not stick to the aluminum at all, then build it up and while its still hot grab it with some vise grips and it will probably just spin right out. btk572

 

I'll give them all a try. Building the stud up with a welder sounds like it will work good. Thanks for the ideas. Really sad not being able to ride.


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You can built the stud or you can weld nut onto the top of the bolt, and use wrench to remove, heat generated by welding will help .

Example:

Thanks,
Chris

 

Ideas keep getting better and better. Got a friend coming over this afternoon with his welder. Thanks


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welding with the nut might be the best way. That is the way that I have always been able to get off broken and worn nuts and bolts.

 

That is a great idea. I will stow that thought....

 

in alot of cases with a mig welder and small nuts the weld will most of the time weld to the nut before you get a good weld to the stud, so i would say first try the weld to just the stud method and some small vise grips, heat is your friend here and all the heat in the stud will work the very best . btk572

 

Well kept trying to weld a nut on and it kept snapping off with a little bit of the easy out each time. Tried 5 times.

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Well been hammering and drilling and got some progress. 7/32 wide hole 3/8" deep.

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Well been hammering and drilling and got some progress. 7/32 wide hole 3/8" deep. View attachment 64865

akwarrior79 ... some years ago i repaired my buddies outer stripped M8 stud with a thread insert.
At this point, based on your photo, what would work nicely is a drill jig that you can make from an exhaust flange or equal.
You can use the good stud to retain the jig that will guide your drill bit
gl

 

I believe this is the most-frozen stud I've seen at the front jug. Lucky you. But its the only way remaining to extract it so keep at it, go slow and give-up for the day if you are frustrated at any moment because its not worth a replacement cylinder.

 

If only that were true, I actually had to have a local machine shop mill the stud out of my front cylinder head a couple years ago. Even welding on the stud as Bill suggested wouldn't work.

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Ouch . . . so with that front jug's exhaust port at an angle headed right at a frame upright you probably had to pull the jug to get machine shop work done? I'm more and more happy that I use a dab of nickle-based anti-seize on only the outer threads where those header nuts go. Hopefully I don't over-tighten (anti-seize makes things so slick during re-assembly its hard to know) but it seems a better alternative right now anyway. I've realized that this particular stud breaking can become a real nightmare and I didn't really appreciate how much of a nightmare until this particular thread.

But ak, don't get disgruntled, you can beat that sucker into submission!

 

That's a great idea. I wouldn't have thought of that.

 

i would clean it up and weld the dog shittt out of it then put a candle on it for a few seconds to lubricate the threads, and then grab it with vise grips, all the chipping, hammering, and pizzing around is going to spread the top of the stud if you havent already done that. it look to have a crack or split in the 2 oclock position coming from the 12 oclock position. the more you work it the more you over work the are and lessen the chances of a clean removal, btk572

 

There is another solution: Yamaha XV1700 1700 RoadStar Warrior Front Cylinder Head Low Mile Nice | eBay
Low mileage head for $150.