Welcome to the forum.


Good pics of both sides of the bike and a list of the mods you know have been done will help narrow it down a bit, but my guess is that it doesn't have the right map in the PCIII.

Do you know if the PCIII is USB or serial? USB is much easier to work with, but serial works. You just have to get the software for your computer from the Power Commander site, and the right cable to connect to the bike. Then you just need to get the map from the PCIII (Get Map button). Once you get the map from the PCIII, save it to your computer, and then you can try other maps without worrying about it.



When I first got my 04 Warrior it had the wrong map for the mods it had. I found one that matched better and it made a big difference.

 

Great list. Maybe also add write down the VIN off the frame neck and call Yamaha to see if all recalls have been done. Also the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) sometimes goes out of adjustment or goes bad over time and can act that way. Could be other things but check these first (adding: after checking fuel manager) and let us know. Welcome aboard! There is an e-copy of the service manual around here someplace.

 

If you rode it for a year and did not have an issue, then once you cleaned up all the problems the Map in the PCIII that had it running properly while these issues had not been fixed probably probably compensated for the issues even though the bike ran okay however now that the issues are taken care the Map is compensating for issues that no longer exist so the MAP could be a good starting point.

welcome to the forum and remeber the search function is your friend. also check out the gremlin link in my signature block

 

Yep. I noticed my post was unclear about checking the fuel manager first then the other suggestions so I fixed my post!!

 

First off....welcome aboard! I've got to say that I'm pretty darn impressed with your trouble shooting skills...and no, that has nothing to do with being a girl. As a new owner myself, I know that the learning curve can be a bit steep and a lousy, dishonest stealership can really compound your problems.

In situations like this, I would heed the advice that I got on tuning and make sure that you have addressed all the simple mechanical things first. Sounds like you have covered most with plugs and vacuum lines, but I didn't read anything about fuel lines and injectors. Taking the tank on and off multiple times and fiddling with the dry breaks can cause any gunk in the tank and lines to more easily make its way to your injectors. In this case, rather than just running some Seafoam in your tank (which you should also do), I'd use the spray version and spray some straight into your air intakes, post filter. When you fire it up, you will get some heavy white smoke out of the exhaust for a few minutes and then it will clear. It's really the best way to clean a serious plug up and from what you have reported, it could "possibly" be the problem. If it's not ultimately the source of your idling illness, you still have a more pristine baseline to work with for tuning issues.

 

Welcome to the forum and good job nailing down those issues. I agree with the advice too. I’d use power commander software and back up my map, then try another map, and also use it to set my TPS but you’ll need the 9V cable to set WOT value. Additionally, if it’s a serial PCIII, check for a ‘perfect install’ and the connections of it. Just search ‘perfect install’ for all the info you can shake a stick at. Again welcome to the forum!

 

Thanks for all the welcomes! So I forgot to mention I drained all the fuel as well and put fresh in. Checked all the fuel lines and connectors and everything seems fine. It's a serial commander III. so I'm guessing I need to check the tps connection. I have no cable or software for the commander. Would the LCV cause any of these issues as well?

 

As soon as I get home after lunch I will take the tank etc back off and take pics also some help with identifying some sensors would be great.

 

Welcome frm SoCal n ride safe

Your at the right place for getting ur warrior running good again...

+1 with all suggestions.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-J327A using Tapatalk

 

Here's the link to the Serial software download that arizonawarrior posted a couple years ago.



Power Commander Downloads


Finding the serial cable may be a bit harder, but I'm sure someone here can help.

 

And you should check to make sure that the "Perfect Install" has been done. My guess is that it has not. I'm not sure how different it is to do on the serial version, but the link for the USB version is in my signature line. I bet they are pretty close, if not the same. Edit to add - they are the same.

The perfect install made a big difference in the throttle % at idle on mine.

 

Welcome Snowbaby! Way to jump in and get your feet wet, you will fit right in here.

Couldn't you use one of these?

https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Seri...=1&refRID=SZEARXKRHKNZF6A969KN&dpID=41Vot6RyZyL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=detail

 

Hey guys. I'm having issues with my 04 Warrior.

However, I'm having a idle problem now and I have no idea what the **** to do next. It was idling low so I upped the idle. Then it seemed I had to up the idle some more now I'm to the point where its upped all the way and and can't turn the idle up any more. Its popping in the front cylinders and running rich. I adjusted the pcIII to lean it down and I can still smell raw fuel. Any suggestions or help would be greatly appreciated!!

Along with the map.
Maybe there's still a bad spark plug wire or related. Causing the idle to be lower and not burning all the fuel in the cylinder that is popping. Check the wires on that cylinder at the spark plug for spark and inspect the wires and the wires connection to the coil on that popping cylinder.

 

Okay so had an afternoon of **** and I'm still no further ahead. I went into the dealers to try and get the items he promised me and that was just an angry ordeal.

Came home ripped it all apart again. Got mad and totally disconnected the power commander and re attached the factory wiring harness. It's not idling up and down now and not as much raw fuel smell. Checked the plug wires and taped and changed the spark plays again because the ones i took out were black and covered in fuel. Found out one of the wires to the coil had popped off so fixed that problem. Reviewed all the wires hoses etc to make sure there was nothing i missed. Here comes the HOWEVER, I'm getting popping at the intake and it's not firing in sync. Got spark in the two front cylinder that were giving me grief. I've attached all kinds of pretty pictures for you to look at and just missed the biggest motorcycle Friday the 13th event we're probably ever going to have. Might have been a good thing cause there's a gang war about to break out anyway lol!

Thanks for the link to the cable I will order it for sure.

Any other suggestions?

 

Sorry should've said gaped not taped plugs above, auto correct is my enemy.

 

Ok, so: I’ve been fighting a rich symptom for almost three years on my Raider. I did most of the things you did, and it slowly improved, but it didn’t solve it. Finally it dawned on me to check the TPS readings using the diagnostic mode, and it turns out my TPS was not adjusted right.

I’ve looked at the Warrior service manual, and it looks similar. Chapter six, pages 9-14 roughly, will tell you how to go into diagnostic mode. You want to see a reading for your TPS that is within the proper range for idle, and then twist the throttle all the way, and check it for WOT. The nice thing is, if it’s out of range, you can actually adjust the TPS with the bike still in diagnostic mode, and you can watch the idle number change as you adjust it.

For example: my Raider was reading 28 at idle, and it’s supposed to read 12-22. I adjusted it down to 12. After riding it, I decided that was a bit too lean. I adjusted it again to 14 at idle, and now it’s dead perfect. My WOT numbers matched perfectly too.

I know that a real down and dirty lesson on the TPS, but it’s definitely something I would check.

BTW, there is also a test in the manual (it’s chapter 7 for the Raider, haven’t checked the Warrior manual) where you can test the resistance of the TPS to see if it’s within tolerance. It’s about 70 bucks from boats.net, but my local dealer will match on-line prices - I just show them on my phone - so you might get lucky as well like that if you need one.

Oh by the way, you don’t have to disconnect the fuel pump plug as the manual states to go into diagnostic.

 

Leader I agree with you, but for separate reasons. So we might be hunting the path. The symptoms could be TPS and the pics seems to show the TPS is adjusted oddly maybe even loose. Plus the TPS wire has the old red crimp on it which by now is corroded as ****.

Before moving forward I think I would ever so gently UN-crimp that red connector from that fragile TPS wire and then heal that insulation wound (clean corrosion then drip one drop of hot solder on the strands then create new insulation with a thin layer of good quality 3M Super 88 electrical tape.

Then dump the PC3-Serial.

Then do a proper adjustment on the TPS with no fuel manager installed.

Then find a PCV or PC3-USB-all-plugs-version so no perfect install needed, then tune, or even better get a Cobra CVT. No tuning needed.

That will clean up things and allow the next gremlin to become visible. If any.

 

Totally agree the PCIII needs to go. Those old ones are famous for creating problems. Also agree about the TPS angle. That’s what got me thinking.

 

The TPS is definately secure. There is no moving it at all. I tried to get that crimp off there and there is no way it's coming off without wrecking that wire. I can see down the crimp though and there is no corrosion. That wire was well protected behind the air box. The PCIII is disconnected. I was going to replace the coil and wires for the front cylinders just because, however 2 dealers here have told me they are obsolete. Wheres a good place to order them from because apparently I can't get it from Yamaha here. How do I test the resistance on the TPS?

 

Check this link: TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) 101 (2002-2007) as well as the hyper links listed as 'Various Threads of Interest w/supporting documentation'
To properly check for a flat spot on the TPS you'll need to remove the component and bench test with an ohm meter. This is a very simple task imho and well documented in the Yamaha FSM.
The TPS is a robust device ... a wound spring loaded potentiometer. When you remove it from the throttle body the center tap (yellow wire) will snap closed as it's under preload when adjusted unless you turn the device CCW to remove the load. Also take note of the silicone seal within.

• Additional photos here: TPS-Throttle Position Sensor

Hope the enclosed is of some help to your question.

 

Probably best to just bite the bullet and get Dyna coils and some good plug wires. Lots of info on here. If you are dead set on getting originals, I may have a set but it may take me a bit to find them, let me know.

 

I'm encouraged the TPS fasteners are secure.

Think of the inside of the TPS as a chalk board and chalk. The conductive wiper slides across the flat conductive surface. Twisting the throttle physically moves the wiper across the surface. Eventually surface blemishes reduce signal clarity. This seems to first affect the spots used most. Idle rpm. Freeway rpm. It seems phantom. But often its reasonable.

I guess I am suggesting we get the TPS off the table or identified. Structured troubleshooting is not easy by internet. We all sorta hang out over the line with what we believe are reasonable assumptions based on your posts. I mention this because you display some skills. Hopefully the day will come you will be jumping in to help others navigate to solution.

 

I'm more than happy to help someone out if I can. I'm glad I signed up for the site. You guys are a great help. I have read many of the articles you have posted over the last couple years and downloaded manuals etc. I'm by no means an expert but can hold my own so to speak. I've read the replies tonight and tomorrow I'm going out to test and do a few more things. I may have more questions and if I figure it out I will make sure I post my findings so it might help someone else someday. I don't know anyone else with a Warrior. Most people around where I live are scared of them and think I'm crazy for riding one. They have no idea what they're missing!

 

Keeping this separate.

It took me I forget but maybe an hour with two mini flat blade screwdrivers to get that turd off the TPS wire. It was gentle pressure like rocking a baby and I had plenty so I know what I am suggesting. That fixed my trouble. Mine was similar but not exact. Or maybe it was: words mean slightly different things to different people so who knows.

I hate crimp connectors and crap like 'em. Weird things happen. Even more weird on a TPS signal wire. Throttle position signal accuracy is everything.

Maybe its fine. What say we find out.

 

The stock coils have embedded secondary wires. They don't plug into the coil they are hard wired. They are thankfully not obsolete they are available from yamaha for a hefty price, or here in the free member classifieds. I agree this could be a trouble spot. Many of us have gone to Dyna DC2-1 hot coils and conventional secondary wires. But you should test for condition and solve the trouble first.

 

I forgot to mention that today while I was at the dealers and he was so ignorant, his son stepped up trying to smooth things over. He did volunteer to run the bike VIN for me for recalls. I specifically asked about the TPS and it was replaced under warrantee. As for the mods that I know of on the bike since it's been a struggle getting that info as well. Pipes were changed, bored and ported, big air box, heavy duty clutch, PCIII. He won't tell me what else they did. I can tell you the bike belonged to a best friend of the dealer. Said best friend had to make sure that his Warrior was faster than the dealers si god only knows what else they did to it.

 

Looks like mods in posted pics include:
Bubs 2-2.
Passenger Peg Relocation.
Boulevard Windshield.
Kuryskyn ISO Grips.
Speedstar Right Side Scoop.
Baron Big Air Kit (BAK).
Coil and Sensor Relocation Plate.
Engine Guard with Kuryakyn Ride Pegs.
Inner Fender Kit for License Plate.
Double-T (TT) Handlebars.
Steering Neck Insert Covers.
Chrome Fender Stays.
Polished Swing Arm.
Passenger Backrest maybe MC Enterprises 291-33 for '04+.
AIS Delete (some plumbing might remain).
Saddle Bags.
Front-Right Horn Relocated?
Maybe more.
Uncertain about motor mods of course!
Some brands and part numbers are guesses.

 

Okay, I think I have it!!!! Tested the TPS (Thanks guys) and it's stuck at 5.7 even when turning the throttle. So I believe that means the TPS is stuck wide open (or close to it) and constantly dumping fuel.

 

I suspect that there is nothing at all wrong with your TPS other than a possible adjustment at closed throttle but I've been wrong before.

Based on your diagnosis you're using a DC voltmeter (Key-On and possibly engine running) and reading across the +5vdc Blue wire & the Black wire (-) which aren't the proper wires for testing if setting up the TPS using voltage.

You'll want to probe the Yellow wire (Output and Input to the ECU. This is the wiper of the potentiometer) and the Black wire and you'l see a voltage change as you go WOT engine off.

To properly check the TPS I suggest you read my OP or the Factory Manual.
gl