RS Warrior Forum banner

Loser (me) broke his fuel pump (Upd w/pics pg 2 )

19K views 56 replies 38 participants last post by  Mamba  
#1 ·
Well, I'm nominating myself for loser of the week. I had to dig into my under seat wiring to fix the broken connector on my battery tender. Easy fix, right? Well, I fixed it fine but when I was buttoning it back up, I couldn't get the tray on the top of the battey to sit right....the fuse for the battery tender wiring was in the way...Thought I got it back in an ok place and the last thing I did was secure the ECU with the strap and tuck my PCIII on top of my fuel pump. Fire her up to make sure I didn't short anything and all is well so I put the seat back on and it's a little snug....seemed normal. So I sit on the seat to ease it back into the garage and POP goes something under the seat and it shuts off....Me thinking I pinched a wire, I take the seat back off and turn the key off and back on to see if I have all the electronics....FUEL STARTS SPRAYING EVERYWHERE....The PCIII wasn't tucked up under that metal bracket far enough and it broke the connector on the top of the fuel pump when I sat down...Guess what, It's only sold as a complete assembly....500.00!!![B)]

I hate to attempt a repair on a plastic fitting with it under fuel pressure...I don't even know exactly where it's broken I'll have to get it apart this weekend. But it's a connector that goes into the white plastic top of the fuel pump....looks like one molded piece on top. Any ideas?

I'm not very happy right now. Oh yeah, and my wife just quit work to go back to school...I think I just lost my Speedstar Cams! Oh well, dreaming is fun.
 
#27 ·
Ok, sorry it's been so long, I hadn't forgot, I just never sat down and explained how the repair came out. I was able to get a brass elbow with a 3/8" NPT thread and a 1/4" barbed slip on fitting. The 3/8" was bigger than I wanted but all I could find. I had to go to a hose/hydraulics store to get that. I also got a piece of replacement fuel line to replace the stock line that had molded ends. I slowly drilled the hole in the top of the fuel pump bigger and bigger until I got it to just under the size of the 3/8" threaded elbow I bought. It turns out when you drill that hole out to that size, the "compartment" that it goes into in the other side of that plastic top is really narrow. When I drilled it out, the drill was slightly cutting into the walls on each side. I think this helped give the threads something more to bite into. I didn't tap the hole, I just let the threads cut their own path. With the walls on the other side, I wasn't worried about cracking it. After I threaded it in once to get threads, I pulled it out and covered the threads in JB Weld and then threaded it back in. I had scuffed up the top around the hole so more JB weld around the fitting would have a place to "grab" onto. After letting it dry, I put it back together and it hasn't leaked a drop. Cost me about 10.00 to fix. Much better than a 500.00 fuel pump. I did have to replace the fuel line that goes up to the steel line that feeds the injectors, I think it was 1/4" high pressure fuel line that I just clamped over the steel line. Works good, hopefully "Lasts long time". I'll get a picture posted of it all back together in a couple of days, I'm out of town right now.

Not pretty but it's worked for about 7 months now:


Insert Image:
Image

61.5KB
 
#37 · (Edited)
Ok, sorry it's been so long, I hadn't forgot, I just never sat down and explained how the repair came out. I was able to get a brass elbow with a 3/8" NPT thread and a 1/4" barbed slip on fitting. The 3/8" was bigger than I wanted but all I could find. I had to go to a hose/hydraulics store to get that. I also got a piece of replacement fuel line to replace the stock line that had molded ends. I slowly drilled the hole in the top of the fuel pump bigger and bigger until I got it to just under the size of the 3/8" threaded elbow I bought. It turns out when you drill that hole out to that size, the "compartment" that it goes into in the other side of that plastic top is really narrow. When I drilled it out, the drill was slightly cutting into the walls on each side. I think this helped give the threads something more to bite into. I didn't tap the hole, I just let the threads cut their own path. With the walls on the other side, I wasn't worried about cracking it. After I threaded it in once to get threads, I pulled it out and covered the threads in JB Weld and then threaded it back in. I had scuffed up the top around the hole so more JB weld around the fitting would have a place to "grab" onto. After letting it dry, I put it back together and it hasn't leaked a drop. Cost me about 10.00 to fix. Much better than a 500.00 fuel pump. I did have to replace the fuel line that goes up to the steel line that feeds the injectors, I think it was 1/4" high pressure fuel line that I just clamped over the steel line. Works good, hopefully "Lasts long time". I'll get a picture posted of it all back together in a couple of days, I'm out of town right now.

Not pretty but it's worked for about 7 months now:

Image
I know this is an old thread, but this just happened to me over the weekend. I'll be trying the same repair tonight. One question I have is what kind of plastic the fuel pump is? The 2 epoxies I bought both said not for use on polyethelyne or polypropylene.
Based on Ken's repair using J-B Weld for the 90* brass elbow i would be inclined to think that the mat'l is not polyethelyne or polypropylene based on the following link:
*** I would suggest testing the broken pc 1st ***
 
#39 ·
#42 ·
The repair worked perfectly. Cost maybe $15 total for the elbow, epoxy, fuel line and hose clamps. MUCH better than the $650 fuel pump replacement.

I was also able to do the repair while the pump was still mounted in the bike. I just had to remove the tank, seat latch bracket, and a couple other little things to make room.

Thanks condrons for the great write-up!!!
 
#45 ·
You might want to try some Lepage 5 minute epoxy as a temporary fix till you get a new part. I had a pressure washer that froze and split that I epoxyed back together and it held for years with a few hundred PSI on it. I'm not sure how it will react with fuel though. It's worth a try.......
 
#50 ·
Broken fuel pump - another one

Talk about bad timing, had my warrior shipped to the UAE and broke the pump while attempting to get the bike started after 6 months in storage. Question since the original nipple was not an elbow that broke off, why did you decide to use an elbow. Also will this fix reduce or increase the fuel flow into the pump or does that even matter.

Anthony
 
#51 ·
The reason for the elbow is to keep it from breaking off again. I push my power commander in there and I'm guessing the stress of that pushing against it is what caused it to break. With the elbow I'm able to lay the power commander on top of it.

I don't think you have to worry about fuel flow, since the pump should take as much as it needs either way.
 
#52 ·
I know this is an old thread, but this thread is how I actually found RSWarrior. I bought my Warrior yesterday and the owner snapped off the nipple on his fuel pump with the Power Commander while I was there looking at the bike. I still wanted the bike so we knocked some off the price and I took it. When I got home, I searched around and found this page. I just wanted to mention that I found a new fuel pump at PartZilla.com for $362.70. While I was checking out, I saw a place for a promo code so I searched and found a 5% off promo code. After free shipping and no tax, I paid $344.56 for it. Just a thought if any others out there are looking for a fuel pump. This seems to be a common thing. I took my tool kit out and mounted the power commander there. Here's the link to the fuel pump.

5PX-13907-00-00 FUEL PUMP COMP. $362.70