Congrats on the install and relatively painless process.

 

question for you.
on another group multiple people have mentioned to “upgrade” the bearing in the pressure plate/Barnett hub because of bearing failure in a little amount of miles. Have you heard of this being a issue? And do you believe that Barnett has probably corrected this issue by now. Hopefully. The job is done now. I really don’t want to redo the gasket again. But, I really don’t want bearing material going threw the engine either if I can help
Prevent it.
thanks for a reply. Or if anything has had any thoughts on this.

 

In your photos, the BPP is not with the bearing that was falling apart en masse and with which I caught the Barnett representative. The bearing is different now, fact. But only time will tell its reliability.

 

@Valley Warrior ... Good to see your 2002 ride has the updated CPS

• My Install here: CPS Recall & Barnett SR-2 Pressure Plate

 

In your photos, the BPP is not with the bearing that was falling apart en masse and with which I caught the Barnett representative. The bearing is different now, fact. But only time will tell its reliability.

Alright. That makes me feel a little better. Thanks for the information. I did search the forum last night on the subject after asking this question and actually found a lot of information on the topic. And that information kinda put my mind at ease as well. It looks as if they realized that there was an issue and attempted to correct it. And recently I haven’t heard of the issue much anymore. But yea only time will tell. I’ll just keep a close eye on oil and an ear on odd sounds for awhile. Thanks!!

@Valley Warrior ... Good to see your 2002 ride has the updated CPS

• My Install here: CPS Recall & Barnett SR-2 Pressure Plate

oh!! thanks for that information!! I am learning this bike was well taken care of before I purchased it. I do have all the records from the original owner through the vin number. I was able to get all that from a friend that works for a local power sport shop. All
Oil changes and all recalls were done at a shop I’m the third owner. The second owner only rode it about 3,000 miles according to the odometer readings from the last time it was at a shop. I have put 5k on it since February of 23. So I plan to ride it and maintain it as well as the first owner did. And also make it my own along the way. Thanks for the confirmation on the updated crank position sensor. Your guy's knowledge on this forum is amazing and I love it. Every time a post a picture of the bike I learn more about it. And I absolutely love that. Thank you!! 😊

 

Seems like they have you pointed in the right direction. I hope your mind is at ease. Now go out and ride it.

 

Definitely at ease. Now just anxious for better/dryer weather. Thanks again for all the help.

 

Where you at ? It’s been pretty wet up here in Seattle since about last October.

 

I’m in the snoqualmie valley of Washington. Yes it’s been wet. But today was almost 70°. So I started feeling sick of work. Took off early. And went for a ride around the valley. Some roads were still a little wet. So I just got done cleaning the bike up again. But it was very much worth it. I got somewhere around 300hrs of sick leave. So a couple hours here and there won’t hurt me. I’m glad I did it.
oh!! and the first ride on the new clutch upgrade went very well. No complaints so far. And the clutch holds very strong. I found some dry roads to put it through its paces a few times. It’s very comfortable to ride with. and I don’t feel the clutch lever is too stiff For comfort. I probably wouldn’t go any stiffer springs In It at this time. It holds well and operates with ease. Im very pleased with the outcome.

 

But today was almost 70°. So I started feeling sick of work. Took off early. And went for a ride around the valley.

I got somewhere around 300hrs of sick leave. So a couple hours here and there won’t hurt me. I’m glad I did it.

Recently, I saw a random clip saying it's time to normalize taking time off because we feel too GOOD to be at work. I think you made the right decision.

"Sorry, boss. The weather's too nice and I'm feeling too good to come to work. See you tomorrow," should be a totally legitimate call-out.

 

I have a better response..."Hey Boss, I won't be coming in tomorrow, I just retired." Every day is a Saturday! Eleven months and counting...

 

That’s awesome!! Congratulations on the retirement. You can always call in sick just for fun. Remind them why they miss you. Lol

 

Party in Leavenworth and play in Snoqualmie!

 

So third BPP bearing failure iv read about in another group in the last couple months. The last one. the owner said it sent metal through his engine and killed it.he said it was installed for only six months. I think I’ll order another gasket and an upgraded bearing. And change it out. I don’t want to rebuild the engine because of possible crappy bearing. I like the way the clutch performs. But I’m definitely worried about the quality of it at this point. Anyone got suggestions for the best bearing part number? I’m thinking a bearing, 5 more quarts of ams oil and gasket and another 4 hours of scraping might be cheap reassurance and piece of mind.

 

I just read the same story. I’ve been sitting on my Barnett clutch for a couple years. I need to go review the bearing and see what’s up. It’s really gotten my confidence shaken.

 

The only validated trouble I have seen involved red springs. And there must have been a hundred guys here who installed red springs back when the SR2 came available, of which I recall only two member trouble, both in recent years.

I went with standard gold springs and thereafter I never had to change fibers again. I've never read of a validated trouble with gold or green springs.

I realize recently a member experienced bearing trouble and identified the bearing as the trouble. In that work, he identified a better suited bearing and it certainly met and exceeded the loads applied.

I think anyone with a Kit purchased prior but never installed should just compare that bearing to (1) the failed bearing in the trouble and (2) to the better bearing that solved it.

Also:
Remember there was a re-engineering of the SR2 (subsequent to Frankenstein's identification of the friction disc wear limitation he reported solution to Barnett) and after the revision date that was solved. So compare date codes on those old kits saved in a drawer!

If someone has time to locate and add links here to those two threads (the bearing solution and the SR2 re-engineering) that would help with some of the related questions in this thread.

 

 

That’s the other hard part about all this. Nobody really has a clue on how it was installed. One of the story’s I read of a failure was supposedly just the Barnett pressure plate with the gold springs on a stock clutch. He said he took off factory plate and bolted the Barnett one on. I don’t know if he used a torque wrench or an impact to do that. All I can do is assume it was done with a torque wrench. But I know only about 10-20% of the population uses those. I have installed a number of Barnett clutches on dirt bikes and quads. Without an issue ever and confident in doing so. The warrior clutch wasn’t much different. Just a little bigger around. But my confidence in my work kinda ends at the quality of product installed. I have never known of Barnett to have an issue of all these years of using them. They were always the cats meow of clutches in the day. And where a name to brag about having on the track. And piece of mind of a quality part that won’t fail. I understand things happen here and there. But this really has me concerned about the frequency of the story’s I’m ready in the warrior bike in the last couple weeks. And supposedly the clutches where put in like 2 years ago on one. And six months ago on another. Again I know a lot of variables play a part in this on installs. I guess one way to fell good about the decision of the pressure plate is put a bearing in from basically anyone else. Or a lexan clutch cover so I can see the bearing. But yeas you don’t know if the pressure plate was sitting in a drawer for four years at someone shop and they decided to install it 6 months ago. Or if it’s a new corrected model. I have done a lot of reading in this forum on the situation. It’s a deep rabbit hole to go down. Lots of information. I can only assume that my clutch is a gen 4 pressure plate with the updated bearing. That supposedly has no issues. I have been told by a member I believe in this thread. I should be good. And i don’t have the bearing that is failing in masses. But only time will tell. And of course, I probably am good to go. But also I think what if the pressure plate that was installed 6 months ago was the same bearing I have. But I’ll never know. It’s blew to million pieces and is not recognizable as a bearing anymore.and supposedly locked the engine up on that bike I’m kinda torn on what to do. So possibly for piece of mind. I’ll just swap the bearing out if it’s easy enough to do. Or possibly put the stock pressure plate back on. Which I’m not a fan of. Because it really does make a world of difference on how the bike rides. But I enjoy the riding the bike. And if I’m on my to say Leavenworth the last place I want issues is on highway 2 somewhere in between here and there. I’m kinda in tough spot for best solution on what actually should be done. Run the bike with fingers crossed everywhere I go. Or tear it back apart replace bearing and probably ride the bike with fingers crossed every where I go. 🤪. I found a list of proven bearings on the forum. And ordered the skf 6003-c3 because it’s the only from the list I can find right now. Besides on that is very expensive with a huge load rating VXB 7006 p5 something rather but the numbers where a little different so I didn’t go with it. The one I went with had a better rating or same as depending on who was rating it. then the factory koyo so figured it should be good.

 

It is a rabbit hole, so open your box and compare your bearing to the pictures in those threads (I can't search them out right now sorry bro). If it were me, I would like to see all metal AND a part# that indicates a bearing that is built to take side-loads. The sides (lube shields) might hide the ridges needed to resist side load. But the part number will let you Google for design specs and they will say.

 

I found a bearing off the massive list of bearings of correct size and possible replacements from the forum. I will definitely make sure the new bearing is what it’s advertised to be.
Also I found photos of a bearing removed from a new BPP. He said the 7003B is the only markings on it. No manufactured name anywhere. But I don’t know how old this photo is. For sure. He made it sound like it was very recent.

 

I also do remember one of the failures I read about (remember you might read about 3 failures but 1,000 of good units go unreported of perfect working order) was someone bought a PP but it was a New Old Stock that turned out to have sat for many years and was the old design. Honestly there are so many variables in those stories that it will eat at your brain while you sleep.

 

And that is exactly what it’s doing. Just eating at me. Just trying to figure out the best way to make that stop.
If it was only one story in the last three weeks I’d probably be fine about it. But it has been at least two. In the last few weeks. So now my mind is really racing about it. I’m not much of a gambling kind of person. Just trying to decide if I’m going to let it ride. Or not.

 

It sounds funny, but take a closer look at the shape of the latest version of the BPP. Do you see the cutouts?

They are there to make it easier to remove the bearing)))

 

There is enough evidence for me.

Simple logic chain:
1. BPP with a complete bearing 7003b with a textolite separator, with red springs - 2500 km until the bearing fails. In addition to the references to the red springs, you need to remember that the outer race of the bearing on the side of the balls was noticeably distorted by these balls, which indicates insufficient hardness or a lack of hardening. Or, to put it simply, the bpp bearing's of that version is crap.

2. The BPP with red springs and bearing Koyo 6003 covered 3900 km. Then I took the bearing out and it in good condition.

3. The BPP with red springs and bearing Koyo 7003fy has already covered 67,000 km and everything is still working.

 

That’s great information thank you! That is the direction I’m heading. Replacement Bearing and gasket and oil are on its way. From Amazon.
I believe it’s the only way I’ll get a little piece of mind on a more permanent solution. And back to smiles quicker. Instead of riding the bike and constantly worrying about what was that noise? Is my clutch failing?? My hearing isn’t great. So most likely wouldn’t hear it happening anyway. But I think I do. It’s still the rainy season here so I’ll just take the time and do it. Just not looking forward to scraping the gasket again. Hopefully since it only has around 50-70 miles on it. It will come off easy. Also trying to figure out the best way to save $60.00 worth of ams oil. But if I can’t it’s not the end of the world. It is what it is.

 

I also would reuse the oil without a worry.

 

My biggest thing would be wondering around the shop looking for a clean container to put it in. 🤪 probably quicker to look through the kitchen. 😂

 

It is possible to change the clutch of a warrior without draining the oil at all. To do this, it is enough to place the bike on the right side, for example, on several tires. I'll try to find a photo of this process.
In my setup I can lay the bike on either side without damaging anything other than the paint on the crash guards.

And yes, when my bpp bearing burst, I had no oil in stock. I drained the oil into a clean container and poured it back through the strainer.

 

I was just about to say the same thing. Lean it, pull the cover, do the work, bolt it back up, and tilt up to ride away.

 

I’ll give that a shot.
I am assuming you reuse the gasket, or it didn’t need to be scraped off? Or do you just clean any material out that may have fell in because the oil isn’t up that high.

 

It sounds like freeezzzz has more experience with this as I haven't done it yet, but I know some guys will lean their bike (covered with a thick blanket or cushion) against a post or wall and pull the clutch cover without draining oil. Since it sounds like you don't have many miles on the gasket, I don't think you'll have a problem reusing it. But that's second hand knowledge as I've never pulled that cover myself.

 

I’ll give it a shot. I would love to be able to keep it as simple as possible. And as cheap as possible this time around.