Although the coils are sometimes subtly marked for POS NEG (+ and -) the installed stock coils are not polarity sensitive.

If you want to swap to match the SERVICE MANUAL then it's helpful to others who follow in the future.

 

@arizonawarrior yea the situation made my head spin as always I'm just glad nothing got messed up ....I follow the directions to a T ....I bought the commander new but I had the place put a map close to my bikes set up to get me by till I can afford a custom tune ....the only thing I didn't do is the TPS setting to zero ....what does that affect?

 

Certain power commanders have a setting in their tune software that provides a place to set 0% and 100% throttle position. That is a simple step outlined in the relevant power commander user manual. It's possible to only set 0% and that is likely what you are talking about. It's better the first time to reset both 0% and 100%.

When adding Ivan's ECU there could be a step needed on the actual TPS itself, so just for clarity, the Warrior's Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) uses an electrical value setting. That is adjusted when the sensor is installed and is re-adjusted if the TPS's adjusting screw is loosen for any reason, and is sometimes adjusted when Ivan's is installed.

I realize you likely know these things, figured it's a good spot to add it for those who follow.

 

So far bike runs great only thing I see so far ...is coming from a cold start ....battery fully charged and always on tender ....only few years old OEM style battery ...is after power commander v install is it has trouble starting ....for a few trys then it starts ....sometimes it's starts just fine ....I understand the map loaded on my bike is not perfect so my thoughts so far is ..lean ??? Since it's hard starting because of the map 🤔

 

Could try bumping the low end at crank rpm and see what it does? Did you buy Hellmounts PCV?

 

I took a trip to Patrick racing and bought it I was not able to trailer my bike there so I had a map loaded to it ....it feels great ....but it's just at the starting it can be good or clumsy....a local tuner where I live will custom map it for 350 ......and to be honest I just don't want to spend that much money right now .I understand all bikes are not the same but I kinda have a budget for my warrior mods and I have already gone over it lol...

 

The Warrior has a start-up routine built-in. It doesn't spray fuel if you twist the throttle before the bike starts. The system squirts a measured bit on its own (see manual). Of course twisting the throttle does open the butterflies. So if it's too rich at start then the throttle might appear helpful. If it's too lean to start then more air just makes it worse. I realize there is more to it, but the explanation in the manual uses the terms 'first start' and 'cold start' so have a look.

My 75% guess is the PCV needs tweaking and full set-up. But you don't want to go for a tune until you know wassup. Tuners charge tons.

As for what else might be the trouble, heck the sky is the limit. My next guess is that something is loose or leaking subsequent to work done on the bike. Next guess is the power commander needs 0% throttle and 100% throttle set per pv5 manual (I have forgotten lots about them so it's up to you to see if it's still a setting parameter). My next guess is the battery is simply low or connections dirty due to repairs and fiddling (it takes correct voltage to light-up the sensor array) and I say this knowing it's on a good floater-charger.

The Warrior has one set of two adjustable ECU coefficients. The air:fuel for jug1 and jug2 can be made richer or leaner via the ECU BUMP using parameter coefficients CO1 and CO2. Its effective only to about 1100~1300rpm. To learn what Bump indicators to look for, check the FUEL MANAGERS section of the Documentation forum. You should visually inspect to see if CO1 CO2 were possibly adjusted (clues are to look for wire mods that most often happen as part of this parameter mod). If it's likely been bumped then the CO1 CO2 should be set to zero (0) because there is no way to know what the factory settings were for your bike. This creates an easy-to-use new baseline that will not confuse things later. If you fiddle with CO1 CO2 then you need to tune your power commander again.

Final thought. Vacuum hoses and intake gaskets.

 

Ok @arizonawarrior I recheck everything I know I tried not to undo more than I had too..for the intake I have a church key ...and I only had to remove one pod to route pcv ...I do know that the first time after install the bike was cold and had not been ridden in a month ....but yes on a floating charger and terminal clean ...the only thing I did different from the previous Cobra tuner was put the ground wire to the frame first then ...the other black grounding wires on that then the Allen bolt ...to be honest I been working 2 jobs so not much time to ride it more as see if it does better start at operating temperature vs cold start ...I'll get back to you

 

It's some little thing that will be easily solved once found.

I looked into my copy of the pcv manual, and I'm reminded that on the pcv the 0% and 100% are always reset together. Fully warm bike, idling, click on reset in pcv software then quickly open throttle all the way to stop then release to close throttle and return to warm idle, then click ok button in pcv software.

Also, in the section about startup fuel, the Warrior's native ecu first start routine already accomplishes that task and I recall others said the pcv startup fuel routine was either not able to modify the ecu routine or that it was no help.

Have fun. Go ride that Beast!

 

@arizonawarrior so....to a ovoid COD obe of because of my xblaster rear tail and led license plate light.i had a routine where is I would put bike in neutral the turn off at the key at key THEN I would turn bike on undo turn off cut off. Switch turn on key then start bike ,..Im starting to see the bike with new mcv donf like that ...now so far I turn key on in neutral...let bike do it's prep work for a few seconds then I press start button...so far yesterday was Great

 

Do you have stock front turn signals?

 

The front is stock turn signals...and stock style OEM headlights bulb ...but the rear tail light is a blaster x ...and led license plate lights .......

 

And sorry about my last description of my situation I may have had a few beers when writing that 🙈🙊🙉.
Basically I noticed when I turn the key on not using the cutoff switch the bike seems to operate better since I allow it to do its startup procedures if I put the bike in neutral turn the key off and do anything with the cutoff switch the bike seems to act differently starting up

 

Okay so good news. All that follows assumes your handlebar switch and key switch are okay.

The stock front turn signals use 2 filament bulbs. One filament is connected to the turn signal wiring. The second filament is connected to the running light wiring (specifically plugs into a blue wire inside the headlight bucket) and when you turn the key on, those bulbs in front illuminate. Those are the things that drain residual ECU power at shutdown (as do the twin license plate bulbs but you removed them, and its okay because you still have the front bulbs).

So, at key-on your fronts illuminate on both sides. If they do not, then replace the front bulbs and investigate wire plugs for corrosion. If these 2 filament bulbs are working correctly, then you have running lights and turn signals inside the fronts. And you do NOT have COD troubles. Therefore it doesn't matter how you shut down the bike and you don't need a cod solution like a relay or anything else.

Help File:

Warrior Maintenance & Repair Documents

This area is a storehouse for General Warrior 'Maintenance & Repair' Help Files. 1. This Table of Contents. 2. Stock Turn Signal Bulbs by Model Year, plus UK notes. Replacing the Flasher. 3. Stock Warrior Tool Kits, 2002, 2003-2005, and 2006+, Plus Other Tools. 4. Changing the Motor Oil and Oil...

www.rswarrior.com

 

Keeping this totally separate.

Possible things applicable to your posts about noticing a difference in starting depending on if you shut down by handlebar switch or key switch:

When you turn on the key, the general lighting illuminates but not the headlight because it is delayed by a relay.

When you shut off the bike with the key, everything turns off including the headlight.

When you shut off the bike with the handlebar switch, everything is still powered including the headlight. That is a big drain. Enough to maybe reduce battery voltage available for the next start (depending on battery condition and length of ride for charging purposes). That's why folks who shut-down with the handlebar switch follow it quickly by turning off the key. You probably too.

So you might keep notes about settings at shut down versus troubles at start up in order to discover if a start-up-logic device like a neutral switch or clutch lever switch or kick stand switch might be an occasional trouble.

-----

Example Discovery Routine:

1a. Sit on bike, turn on handlebar switch, raise kickstand, put in neutral, pull in clutch lever, turn on key and press start. Vary by omitting one item and observing with logic if what happens makes sense.
1b. VERIFY the Fuel Injection / Start Logic relay (part number varies by model year).
1c. Use screwdriver handle to gently tap tap tap the LAS body (behind kickstand).

2a. VERIFY available battery voltage including clean tight POS and NEG cables both ends.
2b. VERIFY starter solenoid (has two 30a fuses one of which is a spare). Only buy from Yamaha, resellers most often send the wrong part.
2c. VERIFY starter cable both ends.

If all is good the starts should be reliable. See also spark plug suggestions.

 

Again keeping this totally separate, clear your mind of everything above.

The addition of a fuel manager, in this case a PCV, has no inherent negative interface with the bike's ecu programmed start-up-routine. If it's connection wires are clean and tight then it's good to go.

A fuel manager that also has extra services like quick-shift or shift-lights or gear-lights can add things that can go wrong. But few if any will cause harder starting. A fuel manager that is too rich in the area around warm idle rpm can over-wet the jugs, which can impact the next start. Pulling the spark plugs and comparing them to a good spark plug condition chart like NGK or Champion, can help discover conditions. But please pick up spare crush washers for your spark plugs and remove and replace when reinstalling your spark plugs. This keeps you safe from the steel spark plug threads damaging the aluminum head threads when you torque the plugs. It's a no-brainer imo.

I bought a good number last purchase so have not used these contacts in a couple years. Or buy them locally.
12mm spark plug crush washer #P-678 THIS SHOULD VISUALLY BE AN ACTUAL ALUMINUM CRUSH WASHER!
(www.sparkplugs.com)
(Monarch 888-800-9629)

Spark Plug Help Files:

Warrior Maintenance & Repair Documents

This area is a storehouse for General Warrior 'Maintenance & Repair' Help Files. 1. This Table of Contents. 2. Stock Turn Signal Bulbs by Model Year, plus UK notes. Replacing the Flasher. 3. Stock Warrior Tool Kits, 2002, 2003-2005, and 2006+, Plus Other Tools. 4. Changing the Motor Oil and Oil...

www.rswarrior.com

Fuel Managers Help Files:

Warrior Fuel Managers

This area is a storehouse for Warrior Fuel Managers. 1. This Table of Contents 2. About PCiii and PC-V Cables, %Throttle, Map Files 3. Notes and Thoughts on Fuel Management 4. Cobra Fi2000 PowrPro CVT #92-1772AT 5. Power Commander PC-V / PC-5 and PC-6 6. Power Commander PCiii-USB (Ver 2 with...

www.rswarrior.com

Crush Washers:

 

Thanks for all the information @arizonawarrior

 

Hey AZW,

Not to hi-jack the thread but I went ahead and hooked up my PCV with Ivan's custom map for a V&H Pro Pipe and K&N pods in conjunction with his ECU flash. Mine has the Pacific Coast Monster Pro 2in1 with K&N pods. I also swapped in the DynaTek DC2-1 coils with their 8mm wires mounted under the tank. The installation is correct and there are no shorts or arcs.

Ivan includes instructions for setting the TPS in concordance with his flash which I did correctly, I believe. Basically he wants the Minimum Voltage so RPMs are in the 1000-1150 range when the throttle is in position #1. My minimum worked out to be .715 and max at 100% throttle is 3.809. Aside from my recent battery issue the bike is running strong, smooth and very responsive. Plugs look perfect- just a touch darker than without the PCV but definitely can feel the performance gains all around.

Soooooo, here's my issue- the PCV sofware is showing a "Device Error" message in the bottom status bar that reads "1" alternating with "0" along with the red error light flashing weakly in oscillations of 3-4 blinks then goes a few beats of no errors. But, as I say, the bike runs perfectly. No misses, backfires, stumbling or ignition breakup.

I've read that ignition noise can interfere with the PCV and other add-on components and am thinking this is the cause. Should I be concerned and if so, what might it be and what is the fix? Any ideas?

 

I believe that error is the PCV self-checking.
Okay I needed to get this link in case helpful:

Power Commander (PCV or PC6) | Downloads | Dynojet

Dynojet Research

www.dynojet.com

What you describe is a PCV self-check of its circuitry and certain settings. It happens sometimes when a PCV is swapped between bikes. It can also happen if the core software glitches.

One good first-check is to load a different map (or swap between the 2 loaded maps) and look again. If a corrupted map file is suspected, you cannot just manually change field values, you need a fresh empty map file and type-in the values. PITA. But it works. Also, if you have two loaded maps, it's conceivable both could be corrupted, either in sequence or at the same moment (I don't know what failures in what circuits are involved it's all black).

The second check is to update the PCV software. You don't want to reload a backup duplicate. Start fresh. Get it off the above link. Then maybe write fresh maps too. Just to cover all bases.

The final attempt at a solution is a firmware upgrade. It's possible to do that yourself but I have to urge you to send it to dynojet for that.

My suggestion is this. Check for map solutions as above. If no joy then call dynojet first and let them walk you through the entire thing because that makes it more likely they will not charge you to fix it. You'll have to pay mailing.

Separate, it's possible to just ride it as-is. Ignore it. If it's a circuit issue then it could corrupt and fail. If it does, then disconnect it and limp home. But ignoring it could mean you have to buy a new one. So it's a good idea to look into it now, while you might get good free factory help. Remember it's possible they find user-induced damage. If you bought it new, there is still a chance they will replace it free or at a deep discount.

Sorry that's all I can offer. Others might chime-in with better solutions in their experience.

 

Well, I finally got an error code "2303 VR Module- Signal Unsync'd" which a Google search indicates as an issue with the PCV getting an accurate read on the TPS from all sorts of bike forums. From what I can tell it might be a harness issue, connector to the TPS itself or other hardware problems. I'm thinking harness because if I move the ECM and/or the various wires under the seat around the blinking error light slows or stops altogether but starts up again after a few moments. However, I cannot see any cuts or rubs on the wires and everything seems hooked-up properly. And as I've said, the bike seems to run perfectly.

Am awaiting another response from DT. Their first reply said they didn't think electronic noise was a problem with their units.

 

Okay.

You are talking about the Warrior gauge yellow check engine light is blinking, right?

Count the blinks. It's probably 8 blinks then pause.

Separate, you are getting an error code on your PCV fuel manager?

Address the blinking light first.

Hang on.

 

Continuous Blinking:

From Page 6-5 of the Manual:

Blinking Warning Light

Warning control when unable to start engine. This control is effected when any one of the conditions listed below is present and the starter switch is turned ON:

a. Battery voltage below the specified value (defective fuel injection system relay, engine stop switch turned OFF, or drained battery)

b. One of the fault codes listed below has been detected (self-diagnostic code 12, 19, 30, 41, or 50 is output):

[*]
(12: faulty crankshaft position sensor signal)
[*]
(19: open circuit in sidestand input line)
[*]
(30: a fall has been detected)
[*]
(41: open or short circuit in lean angle cutoff switch)
[*]
(50: ECU memory check error)

More Pending.

 

Check Engine Light Blinking 8 Times:


The fuel light blinking 8 times and repeating means the system cannot 'see' the fuel level sensor. Most often its not the sensor itself, its usually the green wire inside the headlamp housing has become corroded or kinked or damaged or some such. If you look at the plug on top of the under-seat fuel tank, you'll see one green wire. . That is the color of green to look for in the headlight housing. If nothing found in the headlight bucket then follow the wire to extent you can. It could have vibrated thru the wire-insulation somewhere.

 

Hey AZW,

No, talking about the red "Status" light on the PCV unit and the error code shows up in the software when hooked up to the unit with the bike running. The bike itself is giving no indication of a problem.

 

Okay. Good. Whew!!!!

So if the Warrior is not sending an error against the TPS (and it is not) then the PCV error is having trouble receiving data. It's an on-board the PCV trouble.

First thing is to find the PCV software menu for setting or resetting the TPS 0% and 100% throttle. The PCV needs to be installed on the bike obviously (and it is). Go into the software menu item (I think in Tools) and follow prompts. This entails quickly twisting throttle to WOT and holding 1~2 seconds then let go making certain the throttle quickly returns all the way fully to idle. Pause a brief moment then push the button the prompt provides.

That will assure the PCV is talking with the TPS.

Hoping that is all it is.

 

1. Does the bike have to be running to do the PCV TPS reset?
2. Ivan recommends changing the Min/Max voltages on the PCV software TPS settings to work better with his ECU flash which I did. It sounds to me that what you advise is a similar but separate procedure which I have not done. Yours tells the PCV what position the throttle is in physically whereas Ivan's tells the unit at what voltages the two positions (Closed/Full Open) should be.

Sound right?