[209SamoanWarrior]

Thanks for all the information @arizonawarrior

 

[MarkS01]

Hey AZW,

Not to hi-jack the thread but I went ahead and hooked up my PCV with Ivan's custom map for a V&H Pro Pipe and K&N pods in conjunction with his ECU flash. Mine has the Pacific Coast Monster Pro 2in1 with K&N pods. I also swapped in the DynaTek DC2-1 coils with their 8mm wires mounted under the tank. The installation is correct and there are no shorts or arcs.

Ivan includes instructions for setting the TPS in concordance with his flash which I did correctly, I believe. Basically he wants the Minimum Voltage so RPMs are in the 1000-1150 range when the throttle is in position #1. My minimum worked out to be .715 and max at 100% throttle is 3.809. Aside from my recent battery issue the bike is running strong, smooth and very responsive. Plugs look perfect- just a touch darker than without the PCV but definitely can feel the performance gains all around.

Soooooo, here's my issue- the PCV sofware is showing a "Device Error" message in the bottom status bar that reads "1" alternating with "0" along with the red error light flashing weakly in oscillations of 3-4 blinks then goes a few beats of no errors. But, as I say, the bike runs perfectly. No misses, backfires, stumbling or ignition breakup.

I've read that ignition noise can interfere with the PCV and other add-on components and am thinking this is the cause. Should I be concerned and if so, what might it be and what is the fix? Any ideas?

 

[arizonawarrior]

I believe that error is the PCV self-checking.
Okay I needed to get this link in case helpful:

Power Commander (PCV or PC6) | Downloads | Dynojet

Dynojet Research

www.dynojet.com

What you describe is a PCV self-check of its circuitry and certain settings. It happens sometimes when a PCV is swapped between bikes. It can also happen if the core software glitches.

One good first-check is to load a different map (or swap between the 2 loaded maps) and look again. If a corrupted map file is suspected, you cannot just manually change field values, you need a fresh empty map file and type-in the values. PITA. But it works. Also, if you have two loaded maps, it's conceivable both could be corrupted, either in sequence or at the same moment (I don't know what failures in what circuits are involved it's all black).

The second check is to update the PCV software. You don't want to reload a backup duplicate. Start fresh. Get it off the above link. Then maybe write fresh maps too. Just to cover all bases.

The final attempt at a solution is a firmware upgrade. It's possible to do that yourself but I have to urge you to send it to dynojet for that.

My suggestion is this. Check for map solutions as above. If no joy then call dynojet first and let them walk you through the entire thing because that makes it more likely they will not charge you to fix it. You'll have to pay mailing.

Separate, it's possible to just ride it as-is. Ignore it. If it's a circuit issue then it could corrupt and fail. If it does, then disconnect it and limp home. But ignoring it could mean you have to buy a new one. So it's a good idea to look into it now, while you might get good free factory help. Remember it's possible they find user-induced damage. If you bought it new, there is still a chance they will replace it free or at a deep discount.

Sorry that's all I can offer. Others might chime-in with better solutions in their experience.

 

[MarkS01]

Well, I finally got an error code "2303 VR Module- Signal Unsync'd" which a Google search indicates as an issue with the PCV getting an accurate read on the TPS from all sorts of bike forums. From what I can tell it might be a harness issue, connector to the TPS itself or other hardware problems. I'm thinking harness because if I move the ECM and/or the various wires under the seat around the blinking error light slows or stops altogether but starts up again after a few moments. However, I cannot see any cuts or rubs on the wires and everything seems hooked-up properly. And as I've said, the bike seems to run perfectly.

Am awaiting another response from DT. Their first reply said they didn't think electronic noise was a problem with their units.

 

[arizonawarrior]

Okay.

You are talking about the Warrior gauge yellow check engine light is blinking, right?

Count the blinks. It's probably 8 blinks then pause.

Separate, you are getting an error code on your PCV fuel manager?

Address the blinking light first.

Hang on.

 

[arizonawarrior]

Continuous Blinking:

From Page 6-5 of the Manual:

Blinking Warning Light

Warning control when unable to start engine. This control is effected when any one of the conditions listed below is present and the starter switch is turned ON:

a. Battery voltage below the specified value (defective fuel injection system relay, engine stop switch turned OFF, or drained battery)

b. One of the fault codes listed below has been detected (self-diagnostic code 12, 19, 30, 41, or 50 is output):

[*]
(12: faulty crankshaft position sensor signal)
[*]
(19: open circuit in sidestand input line)
[*]
(30: a fall has been detected)
[*]
(41: open or short circuit in lean angle cutoff switch)
[*]
(50: ECU memory check error)

More Pending.

 

[arizonawarrior]

Check Engine Light Blinking 8 Times:


The fuel light blinking 8 times and repeating means the system cannot 'see' the fuel level sensor. Most often its not the sensor itself, its usually the green wire inside the headlamp housing has become corroded or kinked or damaged or some such. If you look at the plug on top of the under-seat fuel tank, you'll see one green wire. . That is the color of green to look for in the headlight housing. If nothing found in the headlight bucket then follow the wire to extent you can. It could have vibrated thru the wire-insulation somewhere.

 

[MarkS01]

Hey AZW,

No, talking about the red "Status" light on the PCV unit and the error code shows up in the software when hooked up to the unit with the bike running. The bike itself is giving no indication of a problem.

 

[arizonawarrior]

Okay. Good. Whew!!!!

So if the Warrior is not sending an error against the TPS (and it is not) then the PCV error is having trouble receiving data. It's an on-board the PCV trouble.

First thing is to find the PCV software menu for setting or resetting the TPS 0% and 100% throttle. The PCV needs to be installed on the bike obviously (and it is). Go into the software menu item (I think in Tools) and follow prompts. This entails quickly twisting throttle to WOT and holding 1~2 seconds then let go making certain the throttle quickly returns all the way fully to idle. Pause a brief moment then push the button the prompt provides.

That will assure the PCV is talking with the TPS.

Hoping that is all it is.

 

[MarkS01]

1. Does the bike have to be running to do the PCV TPS reset?
2. Ivan recommends changing the Min/Max voltages on the PCV software TPS settings to work better with his ECU flash which I did. It sounds to me that what you advise is a similar but separate procedure which I have not done. Yours tells the PCV what position the throttle is in physically whereas Ivan's tells the unit at what voltages the two positions (Closed/Full Open) should be.

Sound right?

 

[arizonawarrior]

Right. The TPS can be thought of as a washboard and wiper. Lets just say for visuals that the wiper travels the washboard. It leverages the natural voltage change occurring over distance traveled. We might simply need to teach the PCV where 0% and 100% throttle are physically (motor fully warm). Hope Hope.

On the PCV I believe the motor has to be fully warm and running. Some prior PC models could be taught with key-on motor-off. I seem to recall the PCV (see some model manuals in the Documentation forum) does not enable this tool unless it's running (and at warm idle).

But you'll soon be able to tell ME!!

 

[MarkS01]

OK,

So, DynoTek tells me the PCV 2303 error code signifies it is out of sync with the bike by -1 RPM. They don't think it should be an issue. Seems to me so long as the PCV is managing fuel only it simply means it's going to lag by 1 RPM in adjusting fuel according to table values. If so, we're talking a few milliseconds, if that. For example, if changing fuel value at 2000RPM it's going to do it at 2001, an almost imperceptible and meaningless difference, unless I'm missing something.

Anyway, took a 132 mile ride to Telluride yesterday. The ignition/fuel was breaking up badly and it was like sitting on top of an iron wood stove even in 55° air. The bike just didn't have any get up 'n go in the upper gears and mid-range RPMs. This morning checked out the coils and all harnesses for shorts or loose connections and the plugs. All is well with everything but the plugs were almost pristine white. I've been using a map Ivan provided to work with his ECU flash but it's obviously way too lean, especially in the 1750-3500rpm range. I found a PCIII map here titled 07midnight57 that is uncannily identical to my bike set-up except he used a different baffle and standard plugs. His map adds fuel in those midranges whereas Ivan's reduces it. At a 20% differential, the spread is significant. Just ran the bike and it's much better although it still sounds a bit dirty, not crisp.

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

 

[arizonawarrior]

Well, imo 07midnight57 is a stand-up brother who shares knowledge and that means if it were me I would test that without hesitation.

 

[MarkS01]

Yep, read some of his past posts and am running it going forward. Much better starting basis than Ivan's given the closeness in bike configuration. 👍

 

[random_guy]

Ok! I need a link to that map. I didn’t find it in the normal spot and searching for it came up with WAY too many results… I might be swapping maps while I’m out riding tomorrow so it’d be good to have several ready.

 

[random_guy]

Nevermind. I found it in RSWarrior Docs Library. Yeah, that's SUPER lean compared to the maps I'm running. But maybe that's what I need... I'll have it with me to tinker with if need be.

 

[MarkS01]

Ok! I need a link to that map. I didn’t find it in the normal spot and searching for it came up with WAY too many results… I might be swapping maps while I’m out riding tomorrow so it’d be good to have several ready.

Hey RG,

Just to be sure, look for 07midnight57 in this list:

Road Star Warrior Documents

If you think this one is lean you should see Ivan's. He actually takes -5% away from those mid-range values.

Happy Riding.

 

[MarkS01]

OK,

By using Midnight's map the fuel mix is richer in the mid-ranges and the plugs look much better except each is noticeably darker on one side than the other. She has a lot more power and acceleration (got her up to 120+ today) but it still seems to be breaking up, just not crisp and clean sounding. After reading lots of posts I'm also running BG44K.which hadn't occurred to me before though she was 14 years old with only 9800 miles when I bought it and sat way more than it was driven.

Is it possible for a throttle body to be getting too much air? I have K&N pods straight off the rear intake (front cylinder) and on about 7" of aluminum tube on the front intake (rear cylinder) so the pod actually sticks out a little ahead of the front cylinder with no obstructions whatever.

Or might it be a vacuum leak or hose off its bib, etc?

Any ideas?

 

[arizonawarrior]

It's physically correct that primo air:fuel displays a dark side and a light side on the spark plug porcelain and on the electrodes. You must be dialed-in if it's tan in color.

 

[MarkS01]

It's physically correct that primo air:fuel displays a dark side and a light side on the spark plug porcelain and on the electrodes. You must be dialed-in if it's tan in color.

Well, I'd say it's a tad too rich now because it's nearly black fading to gray. But it's a lot better than pristine white. I'm going to start bringing the table values down one digit at a time where he has it the richest. Midnight was running no baffle with that map whereas I'm running the PCC standard 2-ring baffle. Otherwise, out setups are identical.